Where to put winch isolation switch?

[SPendrey]

Having fitted a winch to the front of my Disco, I want to add an isolation switch to prevent unintended activition etc. Given that I want it accessible in almost all situations, i.e. not under the bonnet, where would you suggest? I'm thinking if the front grill area as about the only option. Any other thoughts?

Thanks,

Scott

[lawrence]

I'm in the same situation, but i've had no ideas either so I will be watching this with interest. I didn't think about the front grill thats a good idea. Might look into that.

[il-bob]

Same here. Placed it under the hood near the battery until I find a better place.

Was thinking of placing one inside, possibly somewhere in the centre console.

Would not place one accessibile from outside. Not really keen for some bugger to switch it on and 'short' the remote plug

[ChrisW70]

I've seen one mounted on a 3"x3" piece of chequer plate which was then fitted to a top corner of the grille.

Only other place I can think of is the side of one of the front seat bases if security is an issue but then you're into running cables and volt drops....

[sutty_32]

I've used a heavy duty relay for a winch isolator, means I can just have a low voltage switch in the cab, don't even need to get out

Although relays can fail and latch open, its turned off most of the time and the chance of both the relay and winch buggering up at the same time is very slim I think.

[SPendrey]

That's exactly what I thought of on the way home today... will look out for such a relay.

[ChrisW70]

Mine's powered via an RAC jump start solenoid under the bonnet with a small switch mounted to a blank in place of one of the radio buttons on the instrument pod, another two way switch in a blank next to it to select internal or external control. The internal position livens up the radio volume buttons for winch in and out.

[ChrisW70]

... (aftermarket stereo so the radio remote buttons were redundant!)

[sutty_32]

That's exactly what I thought of on the way home today... will look out for such a relay.

I use one of these

Seems reasonably priced, and allbright have a good reputation. The 180 is the continuous current rating, but for a few mins can pull much more. There are higher rated ones, but there is quite a jump in price. I have pulled some very stuck people out without it burning out. You could get a single warn winch solenoid, the type that make up the 4 pack of switches that run winches, and use on of those.

[p76rangie]

I believe that you are looking at the issue the wrong way. The winch control does two things, it connects the positive to active the right solenoids to drive the winch in the right direction and it also connects up the earth for the solenoids. If you want the winch to be inactive, you simply disconnect the earth wire to the controls and put it through a small relay operated by a switch on the dash. So with this switched off there is no way the winch will operate.

Instead of a winch control I operate a switch on the front bullbar and a switch on the dash. The earth relay/switch stops these winch switches operating the winch accidently.

There is no need to put a switch on the main power cable to the winch to stop it from operating.

[Tanuki]

I'm thinking that you should look at putting a FIA-type battery-master-switch in the feed to the wincg - locating this somewhere high under the bonnet/hood so it's relatively splashproof.

Something like: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Electrical_Components/Battery_Isolators_Master_Switches/Autolec_FIA_Battery_Master_CutOut_Switch/1594/0/14928

These switches always come with a hole in the actuator key to let you connect a bowden-cable-operated remote-pull - which should be placed somewhere easily accessible for emergency operation.

--Tanuki

"Badgers are never the answer, but often the problem"

[p76rangie]

I'm thinking that you should look at putting a FIA-type battery-master-switch in the feed to the wincg - locating this somewhere high under the bonnet/hood so it's relatively splashproof.

Something like: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Electrical_Components/Battery_Isolators_Master_Switches/Autolec_FIA_Battery_Master_CutOut_Switch/1594/0/14928

These switches always come with a hole in the actuator key to let you connect a bowden-cable-operated remote-pull - which should be placed somewhere easily accessible for emergency operation.

--Tanuki

"Badgers are never the answer, but often the problem"

Those switches are only rated at 100 amps. Not really enough for a winch.

[sutty_32]

I believe that you are looking at the issue the wrong way. The winch control does two things, it connects the positive to active the right solenoids to drive the winch in the right direction and it also connects up the earth for the solenoids. If you want the winch to be inactive, you simply disconnect the earth wire to the controls and put it through a small relay operated by a switch on the dash. So with this switched off there is no way the winch will operate.

Instead of a winch control I operate a switch on the front bullbar and a switch on the dash. The earth relay/switch stops these winch switches operating the winch accidently.

There is no need to put a switch on the main power cable to the winch to stop it from operating.

You could do this, would have the same effect and is a very simple solution for stopping accidental use. In my winch the solenoids are always earthed, but you could easily put a switch in the wire. The only issue with this is if one of the control solenoids latch/stick when the winch is being used (I have had this before, but its not common) then turning the earth off might not kill the winch, which is why for MSA regs you need a manual one of the main feed. I know having a relay in the main feed wouldn't meet MSA either, but it would/does kill the winch in this situation.

You can get manual switches which are rated high enough for winches, can't remember where from though...

[Liszty]

I use one of these

Seems reasonably priced, and allbright have a good reputation. The 180 is the continuous current rating, but for a few mins can pull much more. There are higher rated ones, but there is quite a jump in price. I have pulled some very stuck people out without it burning out. You could get a single warn winch solenoid, the type that make up the 4 pack of switches that run winches, and use on of those.

Did you need to seal it up? Aquired one of these and was scratching head about where to mount it, then noticed that the contacts are open to the air. Was worried that they could fill with mud and stuff and fail just when you need it.

[Escape]

We always use a manual cut-off switch and place it inside the vehicle (easy and logical on a Defender, with the battery under the seat and plenty of room to put the switch), wired in to an indicator lamp (typically the one in the winch control switch). On Disco and RRC it's a more work, and you do have a few extra lengths of cable. But I still prefer a manual switch within reach of the driver, we always put a winch control switch on the dash as well, so no need to go outside for most winching.

As said, I also find the ability to cut off the main supply to the winch necessary. It protects against faulty use (either intentional or not) and makes it easier when you have do work as well.

[andy2986]

On Mine I've used a Warn solenoid (had one lying around) and switched it from inside the cab along with an internal winch control.

Andy

Edited September 1, 2011 by andy2986

[Vae Victus]

I also prefer the manual switch. As I have a wooden "box" for my 2nd battery behind the front seats, it was relative easy to install it.

[p76rangie]

I am not sure why people insist on cutting the main power to the winch to stop it from working. Cutting the power or earth to the solenoids will have exactly the same effect and requires only simple light weight wiring changes.

[DrT]

But if the solenoid has welded in the closed position your method won't stop the winch!

[zardos]

But if the solenoid has welded in the closed position your method won't stop the winch!

But what if the isolators were welded in the closed position would you not need isolators for the isolators

[Escape]

I am not sure why people insist on cutting the main power to the winch to stop it from working. Cutting the power or earth to the solenoids will have exactly the same effect and requires only simple light weight wiring changes.

Several reasons why I (and many others) prefer a manual, a solenoid is much more prone to failure, and if something goes wrong you'd want to cut power all together, not just the control part.

[DrT]

Since the manual isolator is normally closed the chance of it welding that way is very small as there won't be any arcing happening until the moment you try to open the isolator. The contactors are always opening and closing by the very nature of their job so the chance of them welding is very much higher as they will arc an awful lot at high currents.

[SPendrey]

I chose the most simple option in the end... and I know it isn't secure, but I only wanted it to ensure no accidental activation... see the switch just behind the yellow/red/black terminal boots.

[p76rangie]

But if the solenoid has welded in the closed position your method won't stop the winch!

You would have to weld two solenoids together for this to be true. You are talking a very rare for one to do it, the odds for two doing it at the same time is very remote.

[p76rangie]

Since the manual isolator is normally closed the chance of it welding that way is very small as there won't be any arcing happening until the moment you try to open the isolator. The contactors are always opening and closing by the very nature of their job so the chance of them welding is very much higher as they will arc an awful lot at high currents.

So you are saying that putting 500 amps through a solenoid design for that amperage has a higher chance of failure than putting 500 amps through a manual cutoff only rated at 100 amps. I would put my money on melting the 100 amp cutoff first.