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1993 front carpet removal


duncmc

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My front drivers footwell carpet and soundproofing is very wet, so I need to remove it to dry it and to find/fix the water ingress.

It looks like the carpet goes under the centre tunnel over to the passenger side?

So it is looking like I might as well take both front seat out and the centre console to fully clean and dry the lot.

Does anyone know how much I have to dismantle to remove both the carpet and the soundproofing? 1993 RRC Vogue auto. Thanks

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It looks like to be a big project :)

Better question will be what could remain at its place...I have wet insulation instantly and it starting to be quite rusty underneath. What i do from time to time is to lift the carpets and leave them for a few days. Unfortunately it is not helping much.

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Personally I wouldn't go as far as remove the insulation/carpet from the tunnel, the wet rarely gets that far or causes a problem as the autobox heat is pretty good at drying it out.

Remove the carpets by undoing the plastic screw things and lift out, cut the insulation along the edge of the tunnel (there is a natural fold line here and easily done with a stanley knife) and lift it out, stand it in front of the aga for a few days to dry thoroughly :)

When cutting the insulation, be careful not to catch the EFI loom :)

If you have permanently wet insulation/carpet then you either have a leaking heater, holes in the floor or a very wrong fascination with deep water -either way you should be able to keep it dry in there pretty easily :)

Personally I just run with the carpet and no soundproofing nowadays, means when I do get sludge come in through the door it doesn't matter so much :)

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I have just been having another look, and checking through my old LR RRC workshop manual as well as the newer version. The carpet does go underneath the centre tunnel console on mine, and appears to be one piece including both sides. So it does look like the centre console has to come out.I might get away with leaving the seats in, but they are easy to get out in comparison.

Remove the carpets by undoing the plastic screw things and lift out, cut the insulation along the edge of the tunnel (there is a natural fold line here and easily done with a stanley knife) and lift it out, stand it in front of the aga for a few days to dry thoroughly :)

Strangely I do not have any of those plastic screw things at the front, unlike in the back? Good idea to cut the insulation though.

If you have permanently wet insulation/carpet then you either have a leaking heater, holes in the floor or a very wrong fascination with deep water -either way you should be able to keep it dry in there pretty easily :)

Thanks for the ideas for the leak, it looks like it is just the drivers footwell that is wet though.

And at the moment I still have the Defender for deep water. :lol:

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Drivers footwell can get water from the heater, depends which end is leaking -the pipes or the matrix.

Normally though I would point the finger at porous metal in the footwell somewhere -near the mud flap brackets is a favourite.

The plastic things that hold the carpet in are just on the back edge of the mats, very close to the seat base, pretty sure they are the same as in the back, but I can't look as I don't have any in there any more! :)

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Very unusual for the front footwell carpets to be one piece with the transmission tunnel carpet. There is a fair amount of dismantling to be done if you're planning on stripping out the centre console carpet! :)

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Personally I wouldn't go as far as remove the insulation/carpet from the tunnel, the wet rarely gets that far or causes a problem as the autobox heat is pretty good at drying it out.

Remove the carpets by undoing the plastic screw things and lift out, cut the insulation along the edge of the tunnel (there is a natural fold line here and easily done with a stanley knife) and lift it out, stand it in front of the aga for a few days to dry thoroughly :)

When cutting the insulation, be careful not to catch the EFI loom :)

If you have permanently wet insulation/carpet then you either have a leaking heater, holes in the floor or a very wrong fascination with deep water -either way you should be able to keep it dry in there pretty easily :)

Personally I just run with the carpet and no soundproofing nowadays, means when I do get sludge come in through the door it doesn't matter so much :)

Exactly what I've done on mine i.e. removed the insulation that covers the footwells, left the tunnel insulation as that never gets wet and it gets the heat as said here. Every so often, lift and roll the footwell carpets backs towards the tunnel and let them drive out. Weld any "ventilatioon holes" i.e. rust! I personally have waxoyled the footwells (after painting), leave to dry then roll carpets back. Smells for a bit but you get used to the smell owning a L/R! :) . My dampness was caused by rot holes at the point where the footwell "rises" towards the pedals....

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I haven't got the carpet out, but I did get the wet soundproofing out after cutting it along the line where the ecu cable runs.

I found 1 plastic screw carpet retainer, which I removed, but the carpet would still not come out, in fact it did start to tear so I left that.

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Well the sound proofing will make the biggest difference anyways, a real sponge :rolleyes:

Think you may need to loosen the aluminium strip in the door opening as well...? If not there is supposed to be two retainers in there...

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Well the sound proofing will make the biggest difference anyways, a real sponge :rolleyes:

Think you may need to loosen the aluminium strip in the door opening as well...? If not there is supposed to be two retainers in there...

Aluminium strip is already out. It started to tear where it was stuck underneath the gear tunnel trim around the transfer lever, down on the side. Definately no other screw thing there. I did try levering the centre console up a bit with a screwdriver to help get carpet out from under it, b ut no joy.

As you say the main thing is that the sponge bit is out.

Thanks for the help. :D

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To get the carpet and sound proofing out of a '93 without cutting it you'll need to take the entire dashboard out...

As Bowie says, the most practical solution is to cut the sound proofing so that you can remove it from just the footwell and put it somewhere warm to dry. Obviously, for your comfort and to avoid your footwell(s) rusting through you need to figure out where the water is coming from and deal with it (most likely is a leaking heater matrix, but this is a land rover we're talking about so I'm not taking bets...).

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To get the carpet and sound proofing out of a '93 without cutting it you'll need to take the entire dashboard out...

I thought so.

As Bowie says, the most practical solution is to cut the sound proofing so that you can remove it from just the footwell and put it somewhere warm to dry. Obviously, for your comfort and to avoid your footwell(s) rusting through you need to figure out where the water is coming from and deal with it (most likely is a leaking heater matrix, but this is a land rover we're talking about so I'm not taking bets...).

Last week I folded back the carpet and cut the soundproofing as Bowie said. The carpet is now nearly dry, and the car has been sat in my garage since then, but tonight I noticed a bit of very wet loose foam soundproofing hanging down from the area just above the steering coloumn where it disappears into the bulkhead.

Tomorrow I should get the welding on my sill finished and I can then get that bit back together before I start to look at the inner wings. And to do that I am going to take the bonnet and scuttle off so i can get a real good look at the upper half of the bulkhead and the areas around the bonnet hinges as Range Rover Blues suggested.

The bottom half of the footwell is sound, only a little surface rust where the damp has just started to get under the paint and seam sealant. the underside of that area is good too.

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  • 1 month later...

Did you ever get to the bottom of the damp?

I ask because ever since owning my rangie I have always had wet floors both passanger & drivers side. The passanger side was all welded up & no holes but yet it still leaked. Now I'm doing the drivers side but not convinced that the floor holes are the problem. Maybe when driving but mine has sat on the drive for nearly three years & even after drying out they would have wet in them after heavy rain. I assumed it was coming in through the door rubber, running down the a post.

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Did you ever get to the bottom of the damp?

I ask because ever since owning my rangie I have always had wet floors both passanger & drivers side. The passanger side was all welded up & no holes but yet it still leaked. Now I'm doing the drivers side but not convinced that the floor holes are the problem. Maybe when driving but mine has sat on the drive for nearly three years & even after drying out they would have wet in them after heavy rain. I assumed it was coming in through the door rubber, running down the a post.

Hi Reggie. In the end I have refitted the metal footwell strip to hold everything down without the soundproofing, which has still not dried out fully. I have kept a close eye on things when it has rained and everything inside still seems dry. Having said that i have not checked since driving in heavy rain this week yet. I have a sneaky suspicion that my leak may be brake fluid seeping in from the master cyclinder, although I haven't seen any drips etc. Its just that the paint underneath was all peeling off and a bit of carpet that has been left in the garage has still not dried out fully even in all the hot dry weather. Plus the previous owner did mention a leaking ABS block. Still I now have 2 spares to chose from when I get round to sorting my inner wings.

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Hi Reggie. In the end I have refitted the metal footwell strip to hold everything down without the soundproofing, which has still not dried out fully. I have kept a close eye on things when it has rained and everything inside still seems dry. Having said that i have not checked since driving in heavy rain this week yet. I have a sneaky suspicion that my leak may be brake fluid seeping in from the master cyclinder, although I haven't seen any drips etc. Its just that the paint underneath was all peeling off and a bit of carpet that has been left in the garage has still not dried out fully even in all the hot dry weather. Plus the previous owner did mention a leaking ABS block. Still I now have 2 spares to chose from when I get round to sorting my inner wings.

It seems from what I have read over the years that they can leak from all maner of different problems.

I wouldn't leave the inner wings too much longer, I knew my drivers side needed doing ages back before I had my own welder etc & was bugging a friend to do it for me which never happened. As it was left so long the rot had spread & made the job a lot bigger than just an inner wing, also while your doing the job you see rust staring in places you didn't know about so you can tackle it before it gets too bad. I just which I had bitten the bullet a long time ago & bought a welder to do my own jobs & just maybe I could have caught the dreaded rust a little earlier.

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