Betsy Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 My 109 2a needed new front brakes after a hub seal leaked oil. The brakes were all pretty worn anyway, so bought new drums, shoes, and cylinders. All bought from the same supplier. The brakes are the twin leading shoe version. Everything has been reassembled carefully, but when it came to fit the drum it simply will not fit over the shoes. I have made sure that the adjusters are backed right off, and the drum is a very tight fit over the shoes. I have made sure that the shoes are square to the back plate. The only way I can see to get the drums to fit will be to sand down some material from the new shoes. Is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Are the shoes centred or has one ridden up or down the slots in the cylinders? Are they being pulled fully back on to the snail cam by the springs? Is there air causing them to creep outwards and grip the drum as you are fitting them? Did they come in a blue box?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Betsy Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 I got the drum on, so they should be centred. The problem is, when the drum is on and the screws fitted, it is almost impossible to turn. Its binding very hard. I dont want to drive it, it will overheat. The shoes are Allmakes 4x4, the drums are Brittpart, the cylinders are all Allmakes 4x4. All from Land Ranger Services. I appreciate that there is nothing better than genuine original parts, but are these available now? I doubt it. I think the sandpaper option is looking most likely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar03 Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 have the shoes got chamfered edges? if not, they should have as it stops the material across the top of the shoe binding on the drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Don't use sandpaper - there is a risk that asbestos may have been used (I know it's banned, but quality control can slip in some parts of the world). I'd suggest you pare down the leading and trailing edge of the shoes to a 45 degree angle with a sharp knife and retry. Also, try to turn the wheel with the tyre and rim on the vehicle, you may find it doesn't bind as much. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 I have similar problem on the rear but only with 8 spokes on. LR rims no binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Betsy Posted September 17, 2011 Author Share Posted September 17, 2011 Even with the wheel fitted, its very hard to turn by hand. I took it all apart again today, and cannot find a problem. The shoes are fully retracting, the springs are good and fitted as per manual, and they already have leading and trailing edge chamfers. I even tried to fit the original drum on the hub and that too is binding on the shoes. So its not the new Britpart drum! I can only think that the shoes are slightly thicker than they should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 You can buy the parts from good OEM suppliers, when I put the TLS front brakes on my 88" I used TRW cylinders, and Mintex shoes and drums. All fitted up fine. I would say that perhaps in your case the shoes are slightly out of spec (it has been known to happen with aftermarket stuff). I'm going to go back to basics, the shoes are seated correctly everywhere they should be? This is how mine looked when I put it together last year: It's definitely rubbing on the shoes, and not the backplate or something else? IE. if you removed the shoes the drum would rotate freely? The Mintex shoes weren't massively expensive I don't think, so if you want to try another set you should be able to get hold of them from any decent motor factors (or another decent brand name of shoe) with nothing more than the reg of your IIA. Even Paddocks sell them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samtope Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 I found when doing this same job this week on my series 3, that the short drum screw was to blame. When fully tightened the drum was very hard to turn through most of its rotation but when I slackened off that little screw just a little, it turns freely. I do mean the lttle screw on the front off the drum, not the snail on the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Silly question, but you have got the adjusters backed right off havent you? Take some metal off the ends of the shoes where the contact the backs of the cylinders, that leaves the shoes room to move further in - had to do this on a 110 some time ago, drum wouldnt go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Betsy Posted September 24, 2011 Author Share Posted September 24, 2011 I have carefully sanded the shoes a bit (with breathing mask) until the drum would fit. Now I've driven about a hundred miles they have freed off and stop nicely. When I discussed it at Landranger svcs, they said that they usually have to do this or grind off some metal to make them fit. He said it was because the shoes are made in China, He can get genuine parts, but reckons they are very expensive so does not stock them. Next time I will use genuine, it should not take too long, I reckon I have sanded 25% of the lining away! .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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