Landy-Novice Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 evening all i have just bough a pair of AMV FWH off the bay simply for a selling point if the time comes. anyway my questions are what parts do i need to fit them?? and im worried about wear to the swivels/kingpin when the not in use! i no they have to be engaged once a month, but during the rest of the time.... any tips like thinker oil? grease? (P.S people who say bin them shall be frowned upon by sods law, the devil and satan. FOREVER!!! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 If they're complete then they bolt on in place of the normal drive flanges. Usually longer bolts. I'm not familar with the AVM ones, but the Fairey ones my 88" came with have parts in them that are no longer available, so be careful with them! Just engage them once a month for a journey or two as recommended and all will be fine I'm sure. The swivel housings should have EP90 in on a Series, grease was only used from 300Tdi Defenders onwards...and by people who have leaky seals and don't bother fixing them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 there not complete just the units. this is what i got. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170700574324?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Why on earth should FWH have any effect on the swivels and kingpins? there's buggerall connection between the two relating to wear, and whether or not they are engaged will make absolutely diddly squat difference. If you dont lock them periodically then the splines in the hub and the related locking components wont get oiled, and if you dont look after the front axle oil then your diff which remains stationary could react with water in the oil and develop a rust but thats the lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 The upper swivel pin is splash-lubricated by the EP90 in the housing via the rotation of the U/J (or CV on Defenders), so without rotation of said parts it might run dry. That would be the only reason I could think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Correct - no lube to the railco bush in the top of the swivel which causes horrendous wear. A great example of this was the front axle of my series when i got it - completely knackered railcos for this very reason. IMHO fwh have no place on a landrover. They make no noticeable difference to either fuel consumption or noise, and the miniscule benefits are greatly outweighed by the negatives! i took mine off and threw them away years ago as they were more trouble than they were worth. I suggest you do the same! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 The upper swivel pin is splash-lubricated by the EP90 in the housing via the rotation of the U/J (or CV on Defenders), so without rotation of said parts it might run dry. correct. i read that someone fitted a grease nipple on the king pin! that sounds like the forward! **EDIT** just found these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-2a-3-TOP-KING-PINS-modified-/290612406278?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D290575570049%252B290575570049%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3107041207626783399 does this look like what i need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeriesEwan Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 not wantin to tiddle on yer parade, make sure the springs on the twisty side are tip top, if the spring catches death then the hub will unlock itself ( mine did exactly this at an unfortunate moment in the snow ) as the locking mechanism is a battle of 2 springs Not quite sure why they were designed to fail in the off position but hay ho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Have to disagree with the "no difference" comment , they do make a considerable difference , the colder the diff oil is . eg winter. having operated a 2.25 diesel 109 years ago I can tell you that the drag reduction was noticable to the tune of 1 gear higher at the same distance from start off in winter . I had the fairy units and they were trouble free over many years , and certainly paid for themselves over time . JMHO p.s. You do need to engage them every so often re lube of unijoint in hub and railko bush . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 i've got new seals there anyway so all i need is the longer bolt? does anyone know the part number for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 it doesnt seam to be on retroanacondas site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Yours might not need the longer bolts as they're a different design with a low-profile flange. It's not on my site because they're aftermarket add-ons so won't be in the standard parts book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 my flange id 5/8 thick if that help? ahh, right! that would explain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Is it about the same thickness as your normal fixed drive flanges? If so, use the normal bolts. If not, you'll need longer ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 I fitted a pair of FWH on my 109 years ago, and agree whole heartedly with Jon White - they made no difference at all to acceleration, speed, economy, steering feel, noise or vibration. The only effect they had was to make unplanned 4wd engagement messy and to spring a leak from their o-rings after about a year. They promply went in the bin, and I'd never have them again. There is one tangible benefit for frequent off-roaders: they allow the vehicle to be driven home with a broken front diff or half shaft by disengaging both FWH and driving in 2wd. That's their sole tangible benefit, but their inherent weaknesses make front axle drive failure more likely anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Looks like you will have to make your own mind up as to their use or not , as some others seem to have a negative opinion , may be it was the make of FWH , i only used fairey, and had no probs re leaks or strength, (they got me home with a GTW of 5.75 tons after a rear shaft snapped powered by a 3.8L leyland diesel conversion) . JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 my mind has been made there being fitted, my old man had a pair on his 2a, in 8 years nothing had gone wrong! and he use to boast about getting 25-30 mpg! (of course, that's not completely to do with the hubs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 ive got some the same, the origional bolts were fitted. not on either of my trucks but might fit them to my temporary series as a selling point because some poeple like the idea of them. i wont use them soley on the fact that if i get stuck, i then have to make an effort and get out my seat to engage 4wd. dont haeve anythinng against them though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 okay people, i gotta problem. they seam to have some play where the arrows are, is there a cure? repair kit? or just put up with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Well I can tell you how to fix it......but you aint going to like it..........see above post! I'll get me coat..... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 be araight, the shaft is held in place by the hub anyway isnt it, so as that would be important if it is completely gone, a small amount of play should be fine. unless you think that your landy is an F1 car and needs to be ferpect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 ahh, so it will only get worse when there engaged? if so, i can put up with that. and it is an F1!!! it has ally panels and a light weight chassis....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 them holes in the chassis aint for weightsaving haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron roberts Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 fairy free wheeling hubs fitting remove drive flange (6 3/8 unf bolts and spring washers) remove split pin ,castlated nut, washer and felt oil seal Slide F W Hub onto splines fit NEW felt oil seal (plastic side out ) re fit washer ,nut and split pin greace gaskit offer up outer flange to hub making sure the actuater bosses are correctly engaged in the right slots (if you look at the inside of the flange you should notice they is a small slot and larger one ensure the bosses engage in there correct slots If you find that the 6 4 inch bolts do not line up with the HUB tap the centre of the hexigon boss out and set it to the correct slots offer up the flang turning it untill the holes line up put 2 bolts in oposit each other pul tight and then fit the other 4 bolts job done THE INOVATER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron roberts Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I allso know a better way of fitting extra longer wheel studs and how to convert s2,s2a and early s3 stub axles to defender inner and outer same type bearings A saving of close on £300 each wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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