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free wheeling hubs


Landy-Novice

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evening all :)

i have just bough a pair of AMV FWH off the bay simply for a selling point if the time comes. :( anyway my questions are

what parts do i need to fit them??

and

im worried about wear to the swivels/kingpin when the not in use! i no they have to be engaged once a month, but during the rest of the time.... any tips like thinker oil? grease?

(P.S people who say bin them shall be frowned upon by sods law, the devil and satan. FOREVER!!! :ph34r::i-m_so_happy: )

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If they're complete then they bolt on in place of the normal drive flanges. Usually longer bolts. I'm not familar with the AVM ones, but the Fairey ones my 88" came with have parts in them that are no longer available, so be careful with them!

Just engage them once a month for a journey or two as recommended and all will be fine I'm sure. The swivel housings should have EP90 in on a Series, grease was only used from 300Tdi Defenders onwards...and by people who have leaky seals and don't bother fixing them! :P

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Why on earth should FWH have any effect on the swivels and kingpins? there's buggerall connection between the two relating to wear, and whether or not they are engaged will make absolutely diddly squat difference. If you dont lock them periodically then the splines in the hub and the related locking components wont get oiled, and if you dont look after the front axle oil then your diff which remains stationary could react with water in the oil and develop a rust but thats the lot.

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Correct - no lube to the railco bush in the top of the swivel which causes horrendous wear.

A great example of this was the front axle of my series when i got it - completely knackered railcos for this very reason.

IMHO fwh have no place on a landrover. They make no noticeable difference to either fuel consumption or noise, and the miniscule benefits are greatly outweighed by the negatives!

i took mine off and threw them away years ago as they were more trouble than they were worth. I suggest you do the same!

Jon

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The upper swivel pin is splash-lubricated by the EP90 in the housing via the rotation of the U/J (or CV on Defenders), so without rotation of said parts it might run dry.

:i-m_so_happy: correct.

i read that someone fitted a grease nipple on the king pin! that sounds like the forward! :D

**EDIT**

just found these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-2a-3-TOP-KING-PINS-modified-/290612406278?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D290575570049%252B290575570049%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3107041207626783399

does this look like what i need?

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not wantin to tiddle on yer parade, make sure the springs on the twisty side are tip top, if the spring catches death then the hub will unlock itself ( mine did exactly this at an unfortunate moment in the snow ) as the locking mechanism is a battle of 2 springs

Not quite sure why they were designed to fail in the off position but hay ho

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Have to disagree with the "no difference" comment , they do make a considerable difference , the colder the diff oil is . eg winter.

having operated a 2.25 diesel 109 years ago I can tell you that the drag reduction was noticable to the tune of 1 gear higher at the same distance from start off in winter . I had the fairy units and they were trouble free over many years , and certainly paid for themselves over time . JMHO

p.s. You do need to engage them every so often re lube of unijoint in hub and railko bush .

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I fitted a pair of FWH on my 109 years ago, and agree whole heartedly with Jon White - they made no difference at all to acceleration, speed, economy, steering feel, noise or vibration. The only effect they had was to make unplanned 4wd engagement messy and to spring a leak from their o-rings after about a year. They promply went in the bin, and I'd never have them again.

There is one tangible benefit for frequent off-roaders: they allow the vehicle to be driven home with a broken front diff or half shaft by disengaging both FWH and driving in 2wd. That's their sole tangible benefit, but their inherent weaknesses make front axle drive failure more likely anyway.

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Looks like you will have to make your own mind up as to their use or not , as some others seem to have a negative opinion , may be it was the make of FWH , i only used fairey, and had no probs re leaks or strength, (they got me home with a GTW of 5.75 tons after a rear shaft snapped powered by a 3.8L leyland diesel conversion) . JMHO

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ive got some the same, the origional bolts were fitted.

not on either of my trucks but might fit them to my temporary series as a selling point because some poeple like the idea of them.

i wont use them soley on the fact that if i get stuck, i then have to make an effort and get out my seat to engage 4wd. dont haeve anythinng against them though

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be araight, the shaft is held in place by the hub anyway isnt it, so as that would be important if it is completely gone, a small amount of play should be fine.

unless you think that your landy is an F1 car and needs to be ferpect :)

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  • 5 years later...

fairy free wheeling hubs  fitting  remove drive flange (6 3/8  unf bolts and spring washers)  remove split pin ,castlated nut, washer and felt oil seal  Slide F W Hub onto splines fit NEW felt  oil seal (plastic side  out  ) re fit  washer ,nut and split pin greace gaskit  offer up  outer flange to hub making sure the actuater  bosses are correctly engaged in the right slots (if you look at the inside of the flange you should notice they is a small slot and larger one ensure   the bosses  engage in there correct slots  If you find that the 6 4 inch bolts do not line up with the  HUB tap the centre of the hexigon boss out and set it to the correct slots offer up the flang  turning it untill the holes line up put  2 bolts in oposit each other pul tight and then fit the other 4 bolts  job done THE  INOVATER

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