PGM316 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 My defender past its mot, but a strong advisory was to replace the part above, which has too much play in it. Any ideas how much a garage would charge for this? I'm not going to attempt steering jobs myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 It all depends where the play is? Is it in the serrations on the derop arm itself (needs replacing) or the steering box (not that much harder job in reality!). Is it in the joint at the other end. It might be a very simple job of just tightening up the nut on the steering box (it was on mine once). Working on the steering isn't that difficult in reality. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 Its the bolt/joint right at the front, almost under the bumper. So hopefully it won't be a big job, the mot mechanic thought it would mean a new arm. See, would you let me touch your steering with my vague underatanding of the parts?! cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Took me four hours of banging and swearing the weekend before last! I did it with the arm on the truck. The upper cup of the old joint was so worn that it was difficult to get at it with anything to move it (think it was time for the replacement). Then, getting the bottom plate on with the spring in place took bloody ages - even with the jack under it like Les shows in his tech archive thread, it couldnt push the plate on far enough to get the circlip back on, if I pushed it, it would just lift the car on the steering arm! I stopped there and devised a way of using sockets and a g clamp as I didnt want to bend anything. So, yes jobs on the steering are easy if they go right (this job should have been an hour at most if everything had gone smoothly), but they take forever if they go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 The hardest job (in my experience) is getting the old drop arm off the steering box! I would suggest as a first off (even if you don't know the proper terms :-) is to try and tighten the nut first. Knock back the thin washer used to stop it vibrating loose and get a socket on it and see if it will tighten. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 Thanks for the advice, I'll take a look tonight and try and tighten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 drop arm balljoint change with arm still fitted to vehicle drop arm balljoint change with arm on the bench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 The bottom plate that comes with the repair kit sometimes has to be fitted a certain way round. The plate on some kits has a tapered edge on it, which has to be on the O-ring side (inwards). This is there to compress the O-ring in order to prevent grease leaking out and also allows the plate to go in far enough so that the circlip can then be fitted. Some plates have a taper both sides, so it doesn't matter which way round you fit it. It's also important that the upper ball joint cup half is fully fitted as far as it will go or this will also prevent the circlip from being fitted. Once the circlip is fitted - tap it into it's slot all the way round with a small screwdriver and a hammer. I have known the clips to come out shortly after being fitted. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I've tried it with the arm both on and off the car - my choice is on the car, and the hard bit is getting the upper seat out, which is easy against getting the arm off. However, each to their own. I notice you are in Lancs, if you want to go to a garage and are anywhere near, I'd recommend Landranger in Atherton. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Thanks for the advice and links, the repaired arm looks so much better. I usually go to Bartram near Accrington, they seem very skilled and reasonable rates. Just wondering how urgent these things are, mot guy said urgent, but its done well over 100k miles, sure it can do a few more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 best to change it soon as you can, last thing you want is the steering becoming disconnected because the pin has sheared or pulled out of the socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 last thing you want is the steering becoming disconnected because the pin has sheared or pulled out of the socket. This won't happen - if the circlip comes off, then the plate, O-ring, spring, and bottom cup will drop off, but as long as the retaining nut at the top is still there, the joint won't come apart. You will however, have excessive steering play/wander. I drove a 90 almost 120-miles with the drop arm joint in this condidition, so I know the risks/effects. Pin, what pin? - the ball joint you mean Ralph? It's hardened steel, as are the cups, so long-lasting, even in a dry situation. I've never yet come across a broken one - just wear/excessive play. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Maybe worth looking at the disco arm conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Maybe worth looking at the disco arm conversion? Ditto,I have done this and it's been great-no more mucking about with trying to get the drop arm off the box,10 minutes to change a track rod end now instead of 3-4 hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Any details/pics on how you did the disco arm conversion? I would be interested as I'll be fitting a disco system to me defender in the near future. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 A friend and I spent half a day with a 10 tonne puller trying to get my drop arm of last weekend and it wouldn't budge. The puller kept on slipping off. In the end we cut through the arm a bit, chiseled it open and only then would the arm come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 I was trying to swap the arms over last week. I got the arm off the disco box no problems with just a normal bearing puller and a bit of WD40. The arm on my 1988 box would not budge. After bending the treaded section on the normal bearing puller then moving to an industrial size tractor bearing puller and a 2m breaker bar with still no joy I tried a 10 ton press. I even left it set up in the bearing puller with pressure applied and copious amount of wd40 to soak over night and it still didn’t move. I’ve tried lump hammers and wedges and it still won’t move. Hence why I’m now thinking it may just be easier to convert to a disco set up. Is there anything more involved then just changing the steering rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 It's quite a simple change - the disco drag link is just a fraction longer because it doesn't have that swan neck piece that the defender ones do. Regards getting the drop arm off, I'd always take the box off the car, stick it in the vice, rotate the drop arm to the position where you can get the best swing at it and a couple of solid blows with the lump hammer should see it bounce across the workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 I had to cut mine off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 What about a greasing pin? I've been thinking in drill a hole in the exterior plate and put one on it..... somebody mention it's really a vulnerable place, but I think it can worth the job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheels244 Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 This won't happen - if the circlip comes off, then the plate, O-ring, spring, and bottom cup will drop off, but as long as the retaining nut at the top is still there, the joint won't come apart. You will however, have excessive steering play/wander. I drove a 90 almost 120-miles with the drop arm joint in this condidition, so I know the risks/effects. Pin, what pin? - the ball joint you mean Ralph? It's hardened steel, as are the cups, so long-lasting, even in a dry situation. I've never yet come across a broken one - just wear/excessive play. Les. Sorry to burst your bubble Les - mine snapped today ! - Glad I was only doing 5 mph turning the Landrover around after fitting a Disco axle - could have been very nasty - the ball joint looked siezed solid, I think the previous owner must have been friendly with the MOT guy :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Well, you're the first I've come across No bubble, just my own experience. Lucky indeed that you were only crawling at the time it went. However - naughty boy for not checking it :) Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Here you go Rich: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 The hardest job (in my experience) is getting the old drop arm off the steering box! I would suggest as a first off (even if you don't know the proper terms :-) is to try and tighten the nut first. Knock back the thin washer used to stop it vibrating loose and get a socket on it and see if it will tighten. Cheers Peter That was a swine of a job. I once used ages to get mine down. I used copper grease on when it finally got fixed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 I cut my original drop arm with a slitting disk as I couldn't get the drop arm off either, It was extremely frustrating trying to get it off with pullers etc and when I realised that the disco drop arm would fit it made sense just to cut the original one off and swap it over and make life easier for myself with not having to do that daft ball joint and use TRE's instead, This decision was made after doing 3 in 6 months using cheap parts from a place in Guildford-which I haven't used for quite sometime now, It's been an absolute god send the ease of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.