Jump to content

V8 into series 2/3


Jon W

Recommended Posts

Right have decided to do a proper rebuild of my series, so am stripping it down to the chassis and building it up again, but this time with a V8.

So can anyone point me in the direction of some threads showing how it is done. I am hopefully getting a modified bulkhead from a fellow forum member. But mating to the gearbox, what is needed? I have seen a few kits on ebay and the likes with supposed adaptors and engine mounts but want to check I get the right thing and so require the crank to be cut down which I would prefer not to do.

All responses and pictures appreciated.

Cheers

Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get the correct kit and it makes it a bolt in job. It'll then bolt onto the series mounts and the adaptor plate bolts it up to the series gearbox.

You also need a modified flywheel. I agree with you about cutting the end off the crankshaft - its a horrible way of doing it. I did the opposite and removed the input shaft from the gearbox and turned it down so that it fit into the standard v8 spigot bush.

A good series radiator will just about keep a v8 cool. You will need to change to either an electric fan or fit a very slim engine driven fan (i ran a flexi fan on mine). You'll also need to convert to a cable operation on the throttle cable, and reposition the battery as there is no room under the bonnet for one. Finally the exhaust is a complete pain - you've probably best of buying one from steve parker as they'd be a complete nightmare to modifiy from anything else!

I'm sure I've forgotten loads.........I took my v8 out years ago and went 200tdi as I couldnt put up with the fuel costs!

Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What Jon said really, if you want to drop a V8 in with minimal faffing then a conversion kit is the thing. For more adventure, going to a later 5-speed box & LT230 is more robust but a load more work, especially to fit into an 88.

There will be a load of assorted plumbing & wiring that doesn't quite line up, I found that buying a few cheap (britpart) Range Rover rad hoses to cut up gives you a selection of angles & whatnot to play with. Throttle pedal can be Defender, as can the cable. Exhaust-wise the conversion one is a reasonable shout although there'll always be some faffing, if you want it done properly get a stainless one made to spec and have done. Don't be tempted to make it too loud, it'll be brilliant for the first week then start to drag on long journeys.

Engine mounts are just fabrication, rad needs to be in good nick, scrapyard electric fan & X-switch to cool it. Temp gauge will read wrong, there's a number of ways to skin that cat, I'm sure a search will turn them up.

You'll need an electric fuel pump (Facet) if on carbs, and a high-pressure fuel pump if going EFI.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I did mine (circa 1975) I had the heavy duty (thick) series rad cut down slightly and moved it forward so it sat on top of front crossmember and used standard rover fan . You have to cut off rear of front panel . I also used a remote oil filter and an oil cooler which greatly aids keeping engine temps in limits. I also went the mod the gearbox input shaft route , used series diesel clutch friction plate , and jaguar 3.8 clutch cover ( higher clamping force ) . HTSH

A diesel 200/300 tdi would be a better choice unless you are only going to do small mileages or have very deep pockets.. JMHO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was offered a vehicle a few weeks back which had the worst attempt at a coil conversion I have ever seen. Anyway sat in it is a 3.5 v8, series box and the all important conversion parts between the two. These appear to predate the butchery. I'll get some more info if you like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get the correct kit and it makes it a bolt in job. It'll then bolt onto the series mounts and the adaptor plate bolts it up to the series gearbox.

You also need a modified flywheel. I agree with you about cutting the end off the crankshaft - its a horrible way of doing it. I did the opposite and removed the input shaft from the gearbox and turned it down so that it fit into the standard v8 spigot bush.

I did a load of conversions in the 80's, forgoten most of it now. I have a Phillips adapter under my desk;-)

I can't remember what I did for pilot bushes, I might have made an ali adapter to take a bush? Thats' what I

usually do, I did that for a while with the Prima conversions but a few people had a problem with installing

them so I made a bolt on adapter that held the bush, isn't there room for a similar adapter?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I did mine (circa 1975) I had the heavy duty (thick) series rad cut down slightly and moved it forward so it sat on top of front crossmember and used standard rover fan . You have to cut off rear of front panel . I also used a remote oil filter and an oil cooler which greatly aids keeping engine temps in limits. I also went the mod the gearbox input shaft route , used series diesel clutch friction plate , and jaguar 3.8 clutch cover ( higher clamping force ) . HTSH

A diesel 200/300 tdi would be a better choice unless you are only going to do small mileages or have very deep pockets.. JMHO

This sounds very similiar to what I did around 15 years ago. I had the input shaft diameter reduced to suit the V8 spigot bush, then made a custom (longer) spigot bush from phosphor bronze.

Rad was a standard series 3 item with 16" electric fan in front, had to mod the front panel to allow the rad to sit further forward. I never had any cooling issues even when towing heavy trailers.

Flywheel was the RRC V8 item redrilled to a series 3 clutch assembly.

Exhaust came from Jake Wright, one of their specials for V8 into 88". It did require a small mod (shortening front pipes) but this is inevitable as they don't know where you're going to position the engine.

I'm glad to hear of someone still playing with series vehicles in this way. Just a word of caution, uprate the brakes while you're doing things. You understand why if you don't :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are quite a few threads in members vehicles and around the series forum that tackle fitting a V8 to a series 3, someone uploaded a few articles scanned from a mag when I did mine. If they don't turn up in a search I still have them so can upload :)

I used them to sus-out cutting the bulkhead etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

echo? i will reccomend keeping the brakes in tip top condition, they are actually rather good if kept adjusted up, the oly problem is they need adjusting so often you will get annoyed with them.

this is why i am using disco hubs converted onto my series axle when i have finished my rebuild :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just completed this myself using a 3.9 which I had running on EFi but have just changed to SUs for simplicity. It doesn't give you much room to work around the engine and the exhaust is a complete ****. If you are using a 3.5 with the original manifolds you will be ok but the 3.9s foul the chassis on the nearside. You have to shim it up a little or remake the engine mounts. I used a 200TDi rad and got it all in without moving the rad panel forward. Use a good quality fuel pump (Facet or sim) and you won't go wrong

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My footwell was cut down and rewelded looks neat but I also took out the heater element to fit large K&N filters onto my SU carbs. I am going to lookout for a slimmer heater element or cut one down to clear the air filters and refit it but no rush right now and it stops the wife wanting to play as theirs no heater :)

I kept the standard series 3 front end and rad but added a defender look front and electric kenlowe fan mounted in front of the old series 3 panel runs sweet and ticks over nicely. Good brakes are a must, mine was converted to take disco axles so have disc brakes all round on my S3 which pretty much looks like a defender now.

I did grind the end off the crank to mate it to the gearbox and it was pretty straight forward just something to do bit at a time and keep measuring and checking level of the end. I also fitted a heavy duty clutch release bearing with the longer sleeve to save issues later and an SD1 flywheel setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need a custom heater element as the K&N air filters stick out each side and I had to remove the large heater element and loop back the water pipes to bypass it. Shame it was only about 1cm to large but might resort to some cutting and welding if I had to. Someone said a freelander unit is smaller but I havent found a scrapyard locally to hunt around in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

Just to bring this topic back up again, I have had the engine in and running for the last 9 months, not been too far in it as still sorting bits out as I go as it was a rush to get it road worthy for my Wedding. Now I am sorting through my snag list as I have free weekends.

cooling is my main thing. I brought a series heavy duty 4 core rad and fitted that. With a temperature sender in the top hose with matched gauge. Bottom hose I have a x eng fan switch with a 14inch fan on the front of the rad. Now the engine runs fine above 30mph and stays at a good temp, but at slow speed temp soon gets up about 100c with the fan not cutting in until over 100c (fan switch is in the bottom hose on an 88c stat. I have just swapped this to try and get the fan to come in earlier.

whilst I am about it I am wondering if I need to get another port soldered onto my rad, as it currently only has top hose and bottom hose. Expansion into overflow from the top rad cap. Should I add a port from the top of the intake manifold by the carbs? Pictures say a 1000 words so I have attached a picture. It is the pipe which is currently close off in the picture that i am concerned about and wondering if this will aid the cooling etc. 

Also the engine is running rich at the moment which won't help I know but get the cooling sorted before taking it to be tuned up properlY. 

any thoughts would be appreciated as I don't want to mess up a new rad when I don't need to. 

 

Thanks 

 

 

IMG_0111.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes you need to plumb the small diameter coolant pipe from the inlet manifold into the top of the rad. It's simple enough to solder another pipe into the rad to allow this.

if your fan isn't turning on at a low enough temp then either the switch is faulty, or swap it for one that turns on at a lower temp.

even a 4 row series rad is on its limit keeping a v8 cool. They're not really big enough.

jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok will do that then. Have put a lower temp stat in for the fan. Would the system be better with a header tank to increased capacity? Other option is to add a oil cooler to increase the cooling capacity, in theory cooler oil so less pressure on the cooling system? 

 

Jon 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy