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shakey steering driving me mad!!!!!!!


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right, this is getting on my nerves now. :angry::angry:<_<:(

my Disco ('95 300Tdi) has had a slight shake from the steering ever since i've had it.

it comes on at around 65-70 mph as you pass about 70-75mph it dissapears.... its not bad but certainly noticable, and is slightly worse if you hit a bump in the road.

so far i have...

tried different tyre pressures (better when they are inflated a 'bit hard') ;)

had the wheels ballanced.

had the tracking done and replaced both track rod ends.

replaced the steering damper (new genuine part)

replaced both front shocks (new gen parts)

replaced panhard rod bushes and bolts (new gen parts)

rebuilt the steering swivels and set the preload with a newton meter to the right setting

rebuilt both front wheel bearings

checked front prop UJ's....

checked drag link ball joints (no movement)

am running on good, only slightly worn (15-20% max) Kumho A/T tyres....

so what else should i look at? its not realy bad, but it certainly annoys me, as it drives realy well up to 65mph, and over 75mph...

i'm off to Morocco on friday, and the shakes will be going with me, but i'm pretty hopefull that nothing is about to fall appart.... <_<

should i get the tracking done again as it was done before i rebuilt the steering swivels?

any ideas will be much apreciated.

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wheels were ballanced off the car... never seen them done on the car before... how do you go about that?

will check steering box and steering column UJ's as not looked at them yet...

bloody car, i need it to behave for 3 weeks, thats all.... 3 weeks!

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Matt, if you have over sized tyres fitted, I would fit a HD steering damper from Old Man Emu will make a big difference on tracks with corrugations on.

On car wheel ballance is done by a machine spinning wheels fast on car, we use to have one at my garage but I no longer have it.


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If it's any help to someone who knows more than me about such things: My 98 Disco was running a pretty ropey set of 235/70/16s and had a nasty wobbly shake like yours at about the speed you describe. I couldn't get it to go away no matter what happened. After living with it for months on end it came to the time for a new set of tyres - as soon as I had 4 new tyres put on it went away immediately.

I've had the tyres on for just over a year now and the shake is starting to come back with about 14000 miles of wear on them. My guess is the new rubber was masking another problem but I don't claim to know what.

Hopefully this might help someone diagnose freeagent's problem.

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Certainly worth just swapping the wheels arround, Maybe front to rear, to see if that changes anything. I spent ages trying to pin down a problem with my Dosco's steering and in the end it was all down to one dodgy tyre.

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We see this an awful lot......

It is not a case of which will cure it..

More looking at ALL parts that can cause it, as a small amount of wear in all components will cause this problem.

One thing you have not done is your panard rod bushes, i would do these anyway as they are cheap to do.

However, having gone to al this troulbe i expect that (As Western said) adjust the steering box and the problem will dissapear.

Every car is different and every car shows this problem in different way.....

Howevr rule if thumb is to usaully check steering damper, check swivel preloads, check panard rod bushes, check tyres for uneven wear, steering joint (inc column), adjust steering box.

IF....Problem still exsists, then check......

Front radius arm bushes, shock absorbers, swivel housing internals (for damaged bearings) and if that all fails........

Check chassis alignment and for bent front axle (Caused by previous accident?)

Have fun

Jim :)

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Check chassis alignment and for bent front axle (Caused by previous accident?)

Wonder if that's what the vibration on my disco is? My parents said it's had it ever since one of mum's friends piled it into the side of a lorry on the M74 years ago. Definitely twisted the bodywork (but the AA measured it all up and pronounced it still within factory tolerances... :blink: ).

Is there any easy way to check these?

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right, thanks all...

D90SV... i did do the panhard rod bushes, replaced them with genuine parts as i know they can cause probs, when i took them out the bolts did show a bit of wear inside the bush tubes.

so how do i adjust the streering box then? the truck has done 107K, and as far as i know its still the original steering box... so its probably got a bit of wear in it... is it a case of undoing the lock nut on top of the box, tweeking the hex-key screw in the middle of it and doing up the lock nut...? could someone talk me through it please?

the tyres have only done about 6K, so i don't think its them, but i could (or rather should) swap them from front to rear and see what happens...

cheers guys.. and keep it coming...

want this sorted as have my evil eye on a set of Insa Turbo simex style remoulds for muddy days out... and they'll only amplify it..

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IIRC on top of the steering box is a largish nut with a allen key socket head screw in it's centre, unlock the nut & adjust [wind in] the screw to adjust the free play/backlash of the box, don't over do it or you'll damage the box.

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Just to add to Ralphs instructions, it's useful to get the wheels off the ground and turn the steering from lock to lock to make sure you don't have any tight spots in the steering after adjustment. If you do then back off the adjustment a bit until the tight spot is gone. Later boxes have a tx30 head instead of an allen head.



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I replaced a lot of my steering compnentry this week; track rod, drag link (sumo bars), TRE's/balljoint and steering damper. I was however quite surpirsed to find that my steering drop arm was loose on the output shaft from the steering box. The drop are was quite worn, and would move quite happily. Could I suggest, since no-one else has, that you also check the state of the splines in your drop arm? :)

Mine is like a different car to drive now!



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nope, dropped the seals out as per the instructions, and set the pre-load up properly with a newton meter after re-greasing the top and bottom bearings... its about 3 newtons tighter than the haynes book recommended, but that only works out about 295g... so nowt to worry about.

i'm going to nip into a tyre place tomorrow and get my rear wheels ballanced, then get them rotated onto the front... then have a crack at doing the sterring box adjustment....

....and we'll see how that pans out........ <_<

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