teaandbiscuits Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Morning all, I'm looking to change my defender 110 hardtop to something with five seats, soundproofing etc and think I've decided on a freelander 1. After looking on here and elsewhere, my conclusions are: 1.8i petrol engine: cheaper to buy, but heavier on fuel than the diesels. Early ones cooked the head gasket but most should be fixed by now? Engine warming required before any hard revs. TD4: more desirable (therefore more expensive to buy) but easier on fuel and more reliable than the petrol. maybe more expensive to fix if anything goes wrong? Pollen and air filters must be changed often to save turbo, and worth removing EGR valve if fitted. I'd like a 3 door one because of the removable rear roof section. Is this a good idea or are they a nightmare of leaks etc? Viscous unit can be problematic, but most problems are the propshaft bearings and / or diff mount rubbers if strange noises down there. Look for funny tyre wear to spot problems. IRD is expensive if it goes wrong, not sure what to look for on the forecourt for this? Any tips / advice would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 It sounds like you have already done some searching and covered most points. The TD4 is certainly the best engine as it is very reliable and good for 40MPG when driven normally. The crankcase breather is the important filter that often gets missed (it wasn't in the original service schedule) but with that done regularly along with the rest of the normal service items it should be fine (they are about the easiest vehicole to service I know). Removing the EGR valve is not a bad idea as it will help at low revs. Viscous & IRD is meant to be better on later vehicles as they changed the raitios apparently which makes them less prone to problems, just make sure the tyres are a matched set and are wearing correctly (wrong tyres incorrectly fitted are the killer). To do a forecourt check you can do little more than drive it around at slow speed on full lock. You should feel some resistance (this is the viscous coupling working) but there should be no skipping of the rear tyres (this is the viscous coupling NOT working). Other than that it is just the usual checks, my wife has had hers for a whilenow and is more than happy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Morning all, I'm looking to change my defender 110 hardtop to something with five seats, soundproofing etc and think I've decided on a freelander 1. Dont do it! I have both and guess which one never gets driven.... I just dont like the freelander, but cant quite put my finger on why - its an ok car, but i'd rather drive the 110 (and spend money improving that with soundproofing, more comfortable seats, engine tweaks etc...) or the girlfriends clio for that matter. Just thought i'd give another opinion If you really want one, between your post and Litch you have covered the major points to look for. The other thing to check is that ALL of the electrics work (try every switch before you buy - sunroofs are known to stick. The powerfold mirror motors often break and cost £180 each to replace the whole unit - parts not available seperately). Also look for water in the well in the boot - if its wet (or full up, its a sign of a faulty door seal, although these were supposed to have been upgraded on later models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teaandbiscuits Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 I'm going to drive one for the first time on saturday, so I may change my mind after that! With the defender, everything I had planned to do is to make it more car like (soundproofing, carpets, new seats etc). I started thinking (always dangerous) that I should just get something more car like! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJF Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 If you get an auto, make sure it works as it should as mine cost quite a bit to put right. The sunroof on mine is broken and appears to be a known weak point. Make sure the tailgate works correctly as the switches can play up. I think the IRD ratios were changed for the 2001 model year. Off-road, clearance is the killer as you are about 2" lower than a 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teaandbiscuits Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 I think the IRD ratios were changed for the 2001 model year. Does this mean I should avoid a 2000 or earlier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Does this mean I should avoid a 2000 or earlier? Not at all - just be careful that the VCU is in good condition. You should feel a little bit of resistance when turning (EG reverse parking) but not like the brakes are on or with clonking & groaning from the back end. The VCU's have a service life of 70,000 miles, replacement is ~£250 for a recon unit + bearings from Bell Engineering, it's a DIY job. Post-2001 (TD4 era) have various improvements, the TD4 is a good engine & not too bad to work on. The crank breather (PCV) filter is the one you need to worry about. The TD4 (2001MY) era ones have the electric window switches by the handbrake & clear indicators. All of them fill the boot cubby with water - drill a couple of holes to let it out and call it done. It's a Land Rover after all! As for the rest, buying advice has been covered in this forum many times before so have a scan back down the forum. I had a 1.8, put 70k on it and was very happy with it. As long as you keep an eye on it & catch any problems before they get bad they are fine. If it's been boiled the the head goes soft and it's had it (new head required). I'm now on a 5-door TD4 and I do miss the rag-top fun of the 3-door, but it does very well and has proved very capable off-road while the 109 is away. A Freebie won't be as much fun as a Defender (they're too well behaved generally) but it will cruise quietly and efficiently at 80mph all day long and as long as you mind the ruts they will follow a Defender round any off-road site quite happily, especially if you have one with ETC/HDC. Most LR owners take the p*** but most have never driven a freebie, those who have mostly end up buying one as their daily driver as they are basically great little landies. The pub car park at our club socials is nearly 50% freelanders these days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_roberts Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I sold my 110 last year and bought a Freelander 1, for basically the same reasons as you. My wife and I were deeply upset to lose the Defender, which we had for almost 10 years and treated like one of the family, but the Freebie is so much more sensible. Ours is a 5 door, and with the back seats removed you get almost as much load space as the 110 and a bigger doorway as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I'm on my fifth in three years! TD4 is by far the best, but the L series diesel isn't bad. I personally wouldn't have a petrol one. TD4 auto is a great car, but suffers a bit on the MPG. MAF sensors are also a problem, but a cheap fix is just to disconnect it, it doesn't make that much difference. Parts are just sooooooocheap for a freelander because there is so many petrols breaking. Had loads of cars over the years from Evo's to Defenders and Freelanders are the most practical allrounders you can get. Just make sure you've got a good tool kit, lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 TD4 AFM's are ~£35, and they do make a difference. There's some idiot on the net who sells Pierburg ones and "tuning" boxes which the Rover ZT boys seem to worship but I'm entirely unconvinced that he really knows what he's doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 TD4 AFM's are ~£35, and they do make a difference. There's some idiot on the net who sells Pierburg ones and "tuning" boxes which the Rover ZT boys seem to worship but I'm entirely unconvinced that he really knows what he's doing. The chap i think you mean has fairly good reviews on other forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 The chap i think you mean has fairly good reviews on other forums. Yes, he does - he also does have some good tech about the M47 engine on his website. Unfortunately I really don't think his tuning stuff is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 TD4 AFM's are ~£35, and they do make a difference. There's some idiot on the net who sells Pierburg ones and "tuning" boxes which the Rover ZT boys seem to worship but I'm entirely unconvinced that he really knows what he's doing. Cheap ones on fleabay are carp, tried them and they were worse than the knackered one. Unplugging makes very little difference, slight reduction in torque and saves ~£150 for a genuine bosch one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I paid £35 for a brand new genuine Bosch one from a forumer recently, they're out there. BMW put them on the engine for a reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I paid £35 for a brand new genuine Bosch one from a forumer recently, they're out there. BMW put them on the engine for a reason Tell me where!!!! I need three of them, they're gone on all of my freelanders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Reading through this you could well be frightened off buying a Freelander as they sound too unreliable, well don't be. They aren't ALL unreliable and most people go through ownership with nothing other than routine servicing and don't experience IRD failure, leaking boot seals etc etc. Of course they can go wrong just like any other car but on the whole they are a well sorted vehicle and as I said in my earlier post, dead easy for home servicing which I think is the key to keeping them running well. My wife's TD4 has never run better since I took over the servicing after it came out of warranty. With a new crankcase filter (something the main dealer had never done) and the EGR valve replaced with a bypass kit it drives much better and really pulls from low revs, in addition the fuel consumption has gone down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Tell me where!!!! I need three of them, they're gone on all of my freelanders Chap only had the one, but plenty of breakers around and the same engine is in plenty of BMWs & Rovers too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 I've had my 2001 TD4 since around June, having had a Discovery 300TDI and a Defender 200TDI (and a Corsa, but I don't like to talk about that crappy efficient Eurobox that never went wrong). Not long after I got it I did a full service and changed all of the filters, including the PCV/crankcase breather. Since then, my only mechanical problem that needed was the front anti-roll bar links, but that was just wear and tear. I feed it diesel every two weeks, top up the washer fluid, and it's happy. I've taken it off-road a number of times and have surprised myself at how good it was, especially driving around Seven Sisters; you just have to remember that you're lower to the ground and to be a lot more careful at reading your route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teaandbiscuits Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 Thanks all for the excellent advice. Just selling my defender this week the off to look at FL1s. Looking forward to comfy seats, soundproofing etc! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickcc Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Make sure the props and VCU are fitted as removal can indicate IRD or Diff failure due to a knackered VCU. Some people remove them to improve fuel consumption, but not many. Recommended change mileage for VCU's is 70,000 and headgaskets still go on the later K series engines even after the modified gasket has been fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatback90 Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 i'm on my first one, i bought it last month for €100!!! got it thru the irish mot and on the road for for under €400 and i'm more than happy with it, parts are readily avail and cheap because of all the petrols with head problems, even new the bits arent that bad! my missus likes it coz its surprisingly nippy for a diesel(compared to an auto diesel p38) i like it coz itll do 80mph and it has a heater and radio that works! cant comment on the whole vcu thing as mine is on the garage floor..... it does drive very well in 2wd tho! i dont regret it at all and will probably look at a later td4 when its time to move the p38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Dont do it! I have both and guess which one never gets driven.... I just dont like the freelander, but cant quite put my finger on why - its an ok car, but i'd rather drive the 110 (and spend money improving that with soundproofing, more comfortable seats, engine tweaks etc...) or the girlfriends clio for that matter. Just thought i'd give another opinion You must be a popular person in this section! Did you have a drive teaandbiscuits? How was it? I keep toying with the idea of getting one, my sensible option however is having a 90, and a car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teaandbiscuits Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Well the 110 was collected by a nice man and I went off and bought one! 1.8 k series that has just had a new head gasket, cambelt etc. 3 door hardback which looks like it may be fun in the summer. Its nice going to a "car" from a defender - the heater works, its quiet and can keep up on the motorway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 If I was in the market for a FL1 I'd look for a tidy L series diesel one..They may not be as fast as the TD4,but they are more reliable - its the only LR engine I've never had to take to bits.They dont suffer the TD4 problems of variable nozzle turbos,burst boost hoses,leaky injectors,failed fuel pressure regs,elctric fuel pumps,VERY expensive dual mass flywheels,expensive fuel rail sensors or concentric slave cylinders. However you look at it ALL FL1's are starting to suffer old age problems,so the cheaper the fix is the longer its likely to live/have a residual value. Saying that,my wifes 1.8 K series FL has been a really useful tool for nearly 5 years after paying £500 for it with a blown head gasket.Its only downside is poor fuel consumption on short trips - even though its 2wd during the non slippery months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 You must be a popular person in this section! You dont get a fair idea of what they are like if anyone who dislikes them just keeps quiet. The F1 is the least pleasing vehicle i have ever owned - as soon as finances allow, i'll be selling it. To be fair to it, it had big shoes to fill replacing a lovely e39 528 - but that was on the point of costing me a lot of money. Ii know, they are very different cars so i wasnt expecting them to be the same, but unfortunately for the freelander, the hassle it gave me in the first few weeks of ownership and subsequently has probably tainted my view of it so that i will never really like it. I still try and contribute on this board with ideas to fix problems where i can though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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