geoflse Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 When I wind the driver's window up, it reaches the top and doesn't cut out. It just clunks till I release the button. Also, I get a message when I switch the ignition on saying RHF WINDOW NOT SET. Is this an ECU fault, or do I need a new motor for the door? Cheers Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Sounds like the anti trap feature has failed. Window not set is what you get when the battery has been disconnected the ECU needs to know where the top and bottom of the window travel is. Normally to set it you wind the window all the way down till it stalls then all the way up till it stalls and then the dash will beep and "window set" will flash up. In your case the window motor isn't stalling, the clunks are probable the motor or gears jumping teeth. Mine has been doing this for a while and it doesn't seem to hurt it although I do try and make sure I don't allow it to clunk as sooner or later something is bound to break. I suspect it will be something in the motor or the wiring that has failed but as yet haven't got round to stripping the door down to investigate. The anti trap feature is supposed to prevent the risk of the window closing on body parts with enough force to cause injury so if it doesn't work becarefull opening or closing the window especially if there are kids in or around the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoflse Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Thanks, Sean. You seem to have exactly the same symptoms as I have. Must be time to strip the door card off. There's motors on ebay for not too much. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Could be the teeth on the regulator stripped as if I remember correctly the window limits are torque sensed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoflse Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Thanks, Clint. I'll have a look when I take the door card off. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 It's more likely to be the regulator and not the motor, although the motor can suffer from a damaged regulator because it has to overcome more resistance. This can also cause the anti-trap to activate (IIRC it uses the current draw of the motor to determine if something is blocking the window) and prevent you from setting the window for one-touch open/close. Probably either the teeth are worn and skipping, or the mounting plate is bent/broken, causing misalignement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 It's more likely to be the regulator and not the motor, although the motor can suffer from a damaged regulator because it has to overcome more resistance. This can also cause the anti-trap to activate (IIRC it uses the current draw of the motor to determine if something is blocking the window) and prevent you from setting the window for one-touch open/close. Probably either the teeth are worn and skipping, or the mounting plate is bent/broken, causing misalignement. Wasn't sure now the anti trap actually worked till now but current draw was my guess. The symptoms I have and my understanding of what was origional described is that the window will go up all the way with no problems but once at the top doesn't stop, if you hold the switch to long then it tries to go up further resulting in a loud clunk you can hear and feel through the door. My guess was a failed anti stall meaning it didn't stall when it hit the top of the travel and the clunks were the motor or regulator jumping teeth so although I would expect some damage to the teeth or possible the mounting plate this is likely to be a secondary effect not the main reason of failure. As I say I haven't got round to stripping the door and actually looking inside yet as I have been away at work. Not sure also where the anti stall is detected or controlled, is it in the motor, the door out station or the BECM, it then could be the detection itself, the wiring or the control system. I was hoping to find a broken, corroded or lose wire which would fix the problem, until I get the door apart I won't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Sean, I hope you're right and it is just a problem with the anti-stall (preferably a lose wire ). AFAIK, the only way for the system to know if something is jammed (either something caught in the window or something jammed in the regulator or guides) is if the current exceeds some predetermined value. The same detection is used for the top and bottom positions to enable the one-touch control. If, as often happens, the regulator teeth get stripped, the motor will skip and never draw enough current to indicate it has reached it's end position. Are you able to set the bottom position? If so, it is unlikely to be anti-stall related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Can't set either position and get the same type of clunk down as well which is why I was thinking in terms of the anti stall, if I try and stop the window whilst it is half way by pushing down on it it doesn't stop. If I get time I will strip the door next week but lots of other work to get done first so it is on the back burner at the moment as it work just not properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goelectric Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Thanks for your help. Had the same problem with the drivers door window not setting and making an ugly "clunking" sound when fully closing. Stripped the door panel off following the RAVE manual advice (official Range Rover workshop manual - available for free download - search on Google) and removed the window regulator ( drilled out the rivets). Two teeth broken off. Fitted new regulator (£30 on ebay delivered) using nyloc nuts and bolts (apart from the front mounting point which was too difficult to do up a bolt on so riveted it back on). All fixed within an hour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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