Boris113 Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Morning all! So after much waiting my friend is coming over with a tractor/loader to lift my engine and transmission onto the new galv chassis The next job after that will be to thread in the rear wiring loom. I've heard someone say that it's better to wrap the loom in conduit and use p-clips to attach it to the chassis leg instead of running it inside the chassis in case sharp bits of galv abrade the loom, which i suppose would make sense. It would also save me an hour with a length of wire and lots of swearing. Just wondered what you lot thought? Also, on the subject of looms, whilst the loom is in good nick from the engine to the rear x-member, the bits behind the rear light covers are a complete birds nest, is it possible to buy a new rear loom seperatley from the rest? Thanks in advance, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I put my loom through my new galv chassis, but in extra conduit, there isn't a clear and meat enough route along the chassis that i would have been happy with, getting a pull cord through was easy, as you can go from one hole to the next and then thread it back through and onto the next, i put mind in the rear and out of the front, however gettin the block connectors out of the hole near the engine bay was very tight, and in hind sight maybe front to rear would be simpler as there are only bullet connectors. . . I found it best not to pull too hard, but feed it as as it comes out, if you do put it in the rear, you must get the biggest connector out of the front first, otherwise the wires make the hole smaller and the connector won't come out, ask me how i know! good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutz Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 if you run the loom inside the chassis it takes no more than 5mins. Buy/hire electrical fibre glass rods (£10) tape a piece of wire/string to the rod end you push in first (make sure its long enough to run the length of the chassis) Get an old wire coat hanger and open it up, form a small hook on one end. push rod with string/ wire through chassis and then fish the string/wire out; attach loom to wire/ string and pull back string after removing rods. If you want to protect the loom a bit more recover a couple of times with electrical tape. This will be quicker than trying to cover with protetion and running down the outside of chassis. just straighten the yucky bits at the back and again re tape. i re taped all of my loom when i did my rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 I'm a bit ahead of you in my rebuild. I'm running mine along the top of the chassis, in convoluted tubing. This way it is protected from damage, there's no sharp galv to damage it, there is very easy access if it needs repairing/modifying and it won't end up sitting in inches of mud inside the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 i didn't want to drill extra fixing holes, plus, as it doesn't take long to got into the chassis, it does't take long toget out should i need to. . Which i won't, cos its new, and extra protected. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 When i rebuilt my 90 onto a gal'd chassis I threaded mine though the chassis with a length of copper brake pipe and got someone else to thread it through from the front end and me at the rear of it pulling it through a bit by bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 If you put it outside the chassis get it well up on top. we did this with my dads 110 and when his front prop let go at the T box end it ripped through the loom and the fuel lines, with was a little inconvenient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 This is one of the next jobs on my rebuild. I don't like the idea of running it through the chassis in case there are any sharp bit in ther either. Also I like the idea of it being more accessible for mods or repairs, but as above I don't want to drill loads of holes in the chassis.On aircraft all the wiring is held in place with cable ties on a ladder type arrangement so I'me thinking of using something similar for the loom, brake pipes and fuel pipes. That way I only need drill the holes to attach the ladder and then use cable ties to secure everything to it.</p> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 If you do run it through the chassis them pull another length of string through together with the loom. That way you will be able to pull additional wires through at a later date (also with another string)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty43 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 You can buy a new chassis loom from Autosparks for £60-£68, I would have thought it would be a good idea as you don't know what state the wires are in under the insulation so would give you peace of mind as well as sorting out the mess at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty43 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 The website you want is http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=114 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 Thanks all, for now I'm going to leave the loom on top of the chassis leg because it will need some attention soon. Think it's about time to ring autosparks! Once it's all sorted then I will double wrap the loom before running it inside the chassis. Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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