discomikey Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 so a few questions as i think im about to do a semi overhaul on the temporary landy engine. 2.25diesel. i think its a 3brg any way to tell from the outside? im guessing its gonna need new piston rings? while im there im gona need all gaskets, exhaust/inlet, head, sump, rocker cover might aswell do the bearing shells. im going to be perfectly capable of this work, just wandering can i do it in situ? i think i should be able to. also will i need oversized 0.10 rings or as im not boring it out will standard be ok? i also understand that it will need them running in, how long for? i have got a proper land rover workshop manual for this and all the info is probably in there too. but i cant get to it at the mo. any help appriciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 If its temporary does it really need doing? personally and having rebuilt one of these many years ago i wouldnt order anything until you have had the head off and dropped the sump and had a good look first as you may find the bores are more worn than you first thought, how much oil is it burning? is it giving off dense blue smoke or just the odd puff? tried a thicker oil? you can do all the work in situe assuming your not reboring but if you want to remove the crank then either engine out or pull the gearbox back, probably easier to remove the engine, i left mine in situe and covered the crank during honing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar03 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 so a few questions as i think im about to do a semi overhaul on the temporary landy engine. 2.25diesel. i think its a 3brg any way to tell from the outside? im going to be perfectly capable of this work, just wandering can i do it in situ? i think i should be able to. also will i need oversized 0.10 rings or as im not boring it out will standard be ok? 3brg's dont have strengthening ribs cast into the block, around the bottom edge (where the sump attaches) 5brg's do have strengthening ribs cast into the block around the bottom edge. if you are not having it re bored, the current pistons with new rings will be fine if they are OK condition. obviously its a different story if you are having it re bored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Don't order anything until you've stripped it!!! You could find its already got +0.010" rings in! If the bores look ok, put some very thin oil in, like WD or parafin, and see if they leak past quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_P Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Leaky valve stem seals will result in oil burning too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnus109 Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 just try to fit new valve seals first, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judd Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 ,I have just re ringed my 2.25d and have changed the shells and gaskets all parts including delivery cost. £65 from paddocks spares It can be done with engine situ and it took me about 9hrs start to finish, best bi of advice is while the pistons are out use a honing tool and remove the glaze out of each piston chamber/barrel, use plenty of oil when fitting the shells Take your time and don't rush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 check your injection timing is absolutely cock on before even stripping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judd Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 check your injection timing is absolutely cock on before even stripping. dunno why you have to check injection timing is perfect before doing this as the injection pump doesn't need to be removed the only thing that needs to be done is injectors and injector pipes need removing from it. the crank shaft doesn't need to be removed and the vlaves are done by push rod so timing isn't an issue the hardest thing i found doing this job was removing the injectors as i mine had proberbly never been removed before and were stuck fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 the hardest thing i found doing this job was removing the injectors as i mine had proberbly never been removed before and were stuck fast The thing you need for this is a slide hammer. I spent about 2 hours struggling to get a single injector out of my Volvo. Went and got one of these. The other three came out in under 30 seconds (total). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 dunno why you have to check injection timing is perfect before doing this as the injection pump doesn't need to be removed the only thing that needs to be done is injectors and injector pipes need removing from it. the crank shaft doesn't need to be removed and the vlaves are done by push rod so timing isn't an issue the hardest thing i found doing this job was removing the injectors as i mine had proberbly never been removed before and were stuck fast If it's burning "oil" I have found with nearly every 2.25 that wear in the injection drive spindle retards the injection timing and creates blue smoke with minimal wear it can make a good engine look knackered. So obviously you will check the easiest things first, like valves seals before completely rebuilding an engine............. You can always loosen the bolts (only by a turn) that clamp the injectors and throw the engine over on the handle to loosen stuck injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 that wouldnt explain the dissapearance of a lot of oil over not a lot of miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Correct me if I'm wrong but when I placed the original answer you have not mentioned any oil loss in your OP? of course with the information then my answer is somewhat void, but it would really help if you explained the symptoms or reasoning for tearing your motor down, fully in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 i probably didnt sorry, im not doing it yet as brian is back it has been put to the side for a bit of a spruce up before sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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