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Eds Swivel Rebuild


eds

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Well I have started the job and as usual it never goes to plan!

Firstly I undid 2 bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper together instead of the bolts that hold the caliper onto the hub! I must be stupid after all.

Then when I undid the swivel pin bolts to release the brake pipe the oil from the swivel all dropped on the floor. More mess.

When I did get the hub off I found that the plate behind was half a cm covered in oil. I thought this would be clean and dry here. I hope it only means that the inner seal failed and nothing more ominous.

I also thought I would comment on my parts that came from LRSeries for the job.

I was surprised to find that the swivel pin bush thing came in a blue box but not marked Britpart. These were sold as OEM so not sure where they have come from.

I ordered all genuines gaskets but really there is no way of knowing if they are genuine as they are all unmarked and appear no different to Britpart gaskets. No LR packaging.

LRSeries do stock Britpart so be careful when ordering if you don't like blue boxes. I thought they avoided the stuff and only stocked Bearmach.

I know I am going to need my hand holding so I started my own swivel rebuild thread so you can all follow my stupidity!

Tomorrow I will get the swivel off hopefully.

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I got fed up with LRseries for that very reason, I know britpart etc do make OEM stuff for Landrover but if I order (and pay the premium) for genuine LR stuff then I'd like it in genuine LR packaging.

I use http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/en/ui/ instead nowadays.

Good luck with the swivel rebuild. Whilst you have the brake hose/top pin bracket off and you've split the caliper anyway-split the flexy brake hose from the rigid pipe and cut a slot in it-makes it easier next time to hang the caliper out of the way without having to split the brake system anywhere.

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I did both swivels on my old 90 last summer - messiest job I have done yet, one shot gets everywhete.

I used the standard britpart swivel kit and it all fitted in the right place first time, though I nearly ran out of shims doing the pre-load!

Worst bit was the bolts holding the swivel ball on, they were mental tight. Oh - and trying to work out how to split the stub axles from the swivel housing.

Follow the guide, take plenty of breaks and have the kettle on permaboil!

Dave.

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Worst bit was the bolts holding the swivel ball on, they were mental tight. Oh - and trying to work out how to split the stub axles from the swivel housing.

Got to say - I had no problems with either this weekend. Ring spanner + rubber mallet might have had something to do with it....

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Got to say - I had no problems with either this weekend. Ring spanner + rubber mallet might have had something to do with it....

For getting the swivels off I have a specially modified 14mm spanner (open end cut off) :P that the jack handle fits over nicely :)

One massive advantage of the oil filled swivels is that you can drain them before you open them up!!

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I have taken everything apart and a couple of questions have arisen.

I have 2 metal plates that retain the swivel seal. Microcat only shows one. Am I supposed to have two of the same metal plate?

Secondly inside the stub axle the rubber seal seems to be beyond a bronze bearing? Or some piece of metal. How do you change this seal?

It all came apart ok but filthy so I am going to clean everything up and asses the next stage.

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I have taken everything apart and a couple of questions have arisen.

I have 2 metal plates that retain the swivel seal. Microcat only shows one. Am I supposed to have two of the same metal plate?

Secondly inside the stub axle the rubber seal seems to be beyond a bronze bearing? Or some piece of metal. How do you change this seal?

It all came apart ok but filthy so I am going to clean everything up and asses the next stage.

I had the two metal plates on mine, I can't remember for sure what I did but I think I put only 1 back :).

That is the bearing that locates the CV. It will need pulling out to get to the seal behind it.

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So this seal that is beyond the bronze bearing in the stub axle.

Does it come out in a particular way.

Will it be reusable? Or should I replace?

I've got 2 plates and a gasket on mine.

Looks like the swivel bearings are mint. Should I just reassemble?

I've got the parts to replace but they look so mint............ seems like a waste!

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Has nobody any information on removing the bronze washer inside the stub axle in order to renew the rubber seal inside?

It says in the Haynes book that a Land Rover dealer has to do it.

Has anybody done it before?

Also now that it is all clean I have put the upper swivel pin in the Railko bush and it is not a tight fit. A little play is felt as if it is worn. I thought this was supposed to be a nice tight fit?

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Sorry to confuse, the swivel pin into bush i described is the original one in situ not the replacement one. Your info tells me it must be worn out.

As for the bronze bush, looks like I'll order a new one then and do as you say Les and tap it out and then tap the new one back in.

Is it an important seal? I could be lazy and not touch it.

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So is this the seal that people talk about leaving out. I thought it was only applicable on the rear axle or have I got that the wrong way round. Or is there another one that can be left out?

Given that oil was all over the stub axle mud plate it might mean the hub seal does leak.

The lands do look smooth, how can you asses them? I am replacing the hub seal so might not be a problem anymore.

Where do you stop replacing parts? The bronze bush maybe a pain to deal with. Should it be replaced for certain. If so I would do the seal at the same time.

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Depends how important it is to have your truck on the road - if it fails in the near future it's swivel housing off job, so best part of a day off the road. Most would say do it now whilst it's all in bits and forget for a long time. Others would say if all seems fine then leave well enough alone.

I didn't do mine and ended up with a brake disc/pads contaminated with swivel grease - it had come past both stub axle seals and spread out on the inside of the disc!

Dave.

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If the seal lands have a noticeable groove that you can feel with a finger nail then I replace. There is a different (older style) hub seal that has twin lips that suits the oiled hub bearing setups better;

http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/en/ui/search.php?q=rtc3511&stp=s

Corteco = Original Landrover supplier

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