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Eds Swivel Rebuild


eds

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I did buy genuine seals but I am not sure if it is the older design. Based on what Dave said I think I will get this seal changed. Obviously people do change them so it can't be too tricky! I assume you don't need a press............ The last thing I need is swivel grease all over my new brakes. That is what did it in the first place.

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yes the railko bush is worn if theres play, if the bearings are there, and you have it apart, i would reccomend to always replace with new.

i suppose you could keep the mint ones as a "get you to the shop for new ones" if these newer ones fail at somepoint in the futre.

i cant ever remember seeing a bronze bush inside any of the swivels ive ever taken apart. is there some types without a bronze bush, i cant picture where it would go, an image or parts diagram would help if anyone could upload one.

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Whilst I am waiting for these parts I thought about painting the thing.

Am I definitely supposed to paint the swivel seal metal plates and stub axle mud shield.

What about the swivel housing, looks like it was even painted on the inside.

I would love to know of a paint I can just easily apply by spray or brush with only one coat and it would cover what I would think is metal with residual swivel grease on. Is there such a paint? What have folks used. It would be good if it sprayed.

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There's no paint that I know of that can be applied to an oily or greasy surface - you always have to degrease. Engine enamel is a good paint - not always requiring a primer before application. Leave bare metal where bearings, oil seals, gaskets, bushes, etc, are going to be fitted.

Les.

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What do you think of this damage

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Looks like someone put my swivel in a vice and these marks are quite sharp and proud.

Does the swivel seal come near them.

The marks are on the most extreme diameter of the ball and are typical vice jaw marks.

What should I do.

There is also damage around the top but I think this is irrelevant.

Does this mean a new ball is needed?

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Damn it............... I looked at the seal lines and the seal does settle/cross on these marks..............

I hoped someone would say that it could be got away with if some sanding and filling was done

But that is 2 opinions saying knackered..................

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They're (or were) chrome-plated, aren't they? So any surface damage - like that - will either have gone through the plating, or you'll knacker the plating trying to rectify it. Replacements aren't *too* bad for price - and if it's any consolation, yours are in far better nick than mine are currently.

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The black coloured ones (like this) are PTFE coated, not chrome plated. If you have to put it back on rather than replace it then filing the raised points back to flat would be better than leaving them as they currently are, but to do a good job you would need to use successively finer wet or dry paper to polish it back to a smooth finish. It will never fully seal properly again.

Ironically, you'd be better off with one of the old chrome ones if you have to polish a dent out since the plating is thick enough and hard enough to stand a reasonable amount of rubbing down. With the PTFE ones all that you will do is strip the coating off and make them more likely to rust.

Nick.

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The black coloured ones (like this) are PTFE coated, not chrome plated. If you have to put it back on rather than replace it then filing the raised points back to flat would be better than leaving them as they currently are, but to do a good job you would need to use successively finer wet or dry paper to polish it back to a smooth finish. It will never fully seal properly again.

Ironically, you'd be better off with one of the old chrome ones if you have to polish a dent out since the plating is thick enough and hard enough to stand a reasonable amount of rubbing down. With the PTFE ones all that you will do is strip the coating off and make them more likely to rust.

Nick.

That looks like a chrome one to me?! definitely not as dull finish as the PTFE balls.

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Mine is a chrome one so are you saying it is fine to mend? I could use a polishing motor and just polish it smooth. It may leak a bit on full lock. Decisions decisions.........

Also I have inspected the bottom swivel pin which is inside the roller bearing. It has worn a lip on it. Does this matter?

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I was thinking as it is inside a bearing it is unimportant but then I could not understand why it had worn in the first place.

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Some people have had success with 'liquid metal' type fillers and a lot of elbow grease working them flat - but it will always just be putting off the inevitable. Whilst you're in there best change the balls as well, don't want your nice new swivel seals wrecked the first time you go round a corner!

Dave.

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How can the teflon ones be robust when chrome gives up?

I know they are all that is available but am I better mending my chrome one than going with teflon that is so thin it can scratch off and then rust?

And any thoughts about this bottom swivel pin

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Mine is a chrome one so are you saying it is fine to mend? I could use a polishing motor and just polish it smooth. It may leak a bit on full lock. Decisions decisions.........

I'm saying you'll cut through the plating so a) the area won't be protected and b) you'll end up with the surrounding chrome flaking away (in part from corrosion working under the plating with the steel being exposed). It'll last for a wee while, but you'll eat your seals as a result. If I was strapped for cash I'd possibly do it, but recognise that I'd have to redo it maybe as soon as 3 months down the line (it's Winter, there'll be a lot of salt around soon). SWAG on the 3 months, BTW.

Of course, you could find a suitable plater somewhere and get them stripped, polished & rechromed, but I wouldn't have thought it would be cost effective. And you'd still have a flat spot from the damage.

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