discomikey Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 is it definately worn? there is supposed to be a step on the pin. take the new bearing and push it onto the pin and see if theres any play. if there is then it should be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 is it definately worn? there is supposed to be a step on the pin. take the new bearing and push it onto the pin and see if theres any play. if there is then it should be replaced. Is there? I don't remember there being a step in either of my pins. Might just be my brain failing me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 there is a fat bit that goes through the housing and a thin bit that goes through the bearing. but now youve said that youve made me think, i have a disco hub in bits in the workshop as part of my disk conversion so i can have a look tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 I am starting to get round to putting it all back together now.......... Do I lubricate surfaces before inserting bearing races? Is loctite threadlocker 248 the right stuff? I am going to replace the lower swivel pins as I am still unsure as to whether the step is wrong on the pin. Finally should I replace the brake mud shields or leave them off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 there is a fat bit that goes through the housing and a thin bit that goes through the bearing. but now youve said that youve made me think, i have a disco hub in bits in the workshop as part of my disk conversion so i can have a look tomorrow. Had a rummage through my box of scrap and yes, the big fat pin has a very obvious step I am starting to get round to putting it all back together now.......... Do I lubricate surfaces before inserting bearing races? Is loctite threadlocker 248 the right stuff? I am going to replace the lower swivel pins as I am still unsure as to whether the step is wrong on the pin. Finally should I replace the brake mud shields or leave them off? I tend to put a little in, can't do any harm. No idea what type of loctite it is I use! No mud shields on mine... can't see any of my use damaging them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 locktite is locktite is locktite isnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Nope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 locktite is locktite is locktite isnt it? there's loads of different types for numerous applications from locking threads to retaining bushes & different strength of retaining/locking too. just have a look through Loctite's list here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 OMG Which Loctite!! 248 - General in a stick form - I bought this one before I knew so many existed........... 17Nm 243 - General one - 26 Nm 272 - General high temp one - 23 Nm Someone must know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 No need for high temp stuff in this application, 248 will be fine, and shows how much I pay attention, I'd not seen it in stick form before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinfourth Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 What do you think of this damage Ah ha Idiot rash I made a nice little tool out of my old swivel housing Stuck it in the band saw and cut the flange off the ball. The stuck the flange in the lathe and tidied it up. Welded a little leg on it. I hold the leg in the vice and bolt the new swivel onto the flange which allows me to work on it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 I have sand blasted my swivel housing and hub ready for painting. I bought some engine enamel from Halfords. Can I paint where the casting has been milled for the brake caliper etc What about where the track ends bolts up and sit from above? On the hub should I paint where the wheel sits around the wheel studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 I would leave any machined surfaces as they are, unpainted including the wheel to hub mounting face. any paint can flake off in those areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Did you leave the bearing tracks in for blasting or....? Sorry I can't see from your pic. If you took them out then you may have made the outer races a loose fit now (depends on the blasting medium used of course.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 I did remove the races first. I hope I have not done as you say, I don't think I aimed the nozzle into the inside of the thing...... You would have to do some blasting to have an effect like that I hope. It was a sand blaster, I already regret taking out the bolts as I have just spent the last hour cleaning threads full of sand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Sand blasting threads and where bearings fit is a bad idea. Looks like fine oxide was used, so fairly abrasive - even on cast iron. I hope you didn't use real sand - silicosis can be very bad for your health. http://www.silicosis-injury-attorneys.com/pages/sandblaster_case.html Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 I am not sure, it was not my machine, it was a grey grit. I did breath it in a bit as the door did not seal. So much to learn! So many mistakes to make..... I did not think it touched the metal much, only the crud. When will I know if I have ruined it................. When the wheel falls off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 When the bearing races don't fit the hub any more Hopefully you'll be lucky, in the future leave a sacrificial race in there, or better yet plug the inside of the hub completely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 When the bearing races don't fit the hub any more ..... When you say don't fit, you mean don't fit snuggly as in they'll be loose don't you? Would it be worth using some threadlock as well to be on the safe side? or would that stop the races seating properly when it comes to final fitting? anyone got any thoughts on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Can't see threadlock stopping the races from seating properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 I am not sure, it was not my machine, it was a grey grit. I did breath it in a bit as the door did not seal. So much to learn! So many mistakes to make..... I did not think it touched the metal much, only the crud. When will I know if I have ruined it................. When the wheel falls off! The grey grit is most likely the proper blasting medium (did it sparkle a bit?) so I'd say you are pretty safe from that, but I always wear a face mask as well as you still end up breathing all the carp you've blasted off. You'll probably spend the next day or two making tissues really black when you blow your nose now.... The wheels won't fall off, but your races may spin I guess, that would lead to play that you think is in the bearings but you can't adjust it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 When you say don't fit, you mean don't fit snuggly as in they'll be loose don't you? Would it be worth using some threadlock as well to be on the safe side? or would that stop the races seating properly when it comes to final fitting? anyone got any thoughts on this? That's right yeah, sorry should have been a bit clearer! Threadlock certainly wouldn't do any harm, though the fitment of the races into the hub is certainly what I would describe as an 'interference fit' so I doubt it would be necessary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Can't see threadlock stopping the races from seating properly I was wondering if it would have set before you got the hub back on and nipped up before you give it the final seating spin .... although if it sets and they are stuck in place that's the job done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Various mediums available for grit blasting, such as copper slag, walnut shells, various grades of oxide, pearl beads, and the monster of them all - chilled iron particles.Grey tends to be the shade of the waste matter, with the exception of chilled iron, which is grey anyway (lets hope you didn't use that, as it'll drill a hole though anything rapidly). The problem with a bearing track that's being fitted in a hole that's too big is that you may well fit it off-centre for the race that you will be fitting later, so if that's the case, then the bearing may not last too long. In my opinion - the only way you can be reasonably be assured that the bearing track and race are centred is to leave the bearing to the very last, fit the bearing track with epoxy or araldite, then assemble while the glue is still soft. That way the race and bearing will be as centred as you can hope them to be. If the bearing track seats are just marked by 'blow by' then you may well have no problems at all. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Just to tag onto this with a stupid question - which way up do the balls go? Can't tell for certain from any of photos. (Never mind - just seen it: The bolt holes are asymmetric & there's one TDC) Oh, and even gaffer tape can mask areas being blasted for a while. I've only degreased & wire brushed my housing before painting it - didn't mask any of the machined areas (but tried not to just slap paint over them), just waited for the paint to set and used a razor to take it away from those areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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