MikeAK Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Hi, As the title really. Can anyone confirm the location of the heater fan speed resistor on a 1993 RRC. I've seen conflicting info, some saying its under the decker panel and some saying it under the dash mounted in the heater box. It would be nice to know for sure before I start dismantling this weekend! Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Remove the passenger side grille on the windscreen scuttle panel and you can see it, assuming yours isn't a soft dash. Removal is fiddly with a couple of 10mm bolts holding it in, sometimes the connector wil lpull through, sometimes not, if not it's time to dismantle the dashboard... See here for instructions: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC8010.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Hi, Mine is indeed pre softdash so hopefully it will come out without dismantling the dash. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryboy Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 I'm interested in this thread solely because my heater/air con on my '93 200 TDI has packed up and I've been wondering where to start. What leads you to look at the relay in this instance, if I might ask? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Countryboy, I'm not looking at the relay, I'm looking at he resistor pack. Mine only works at full speed, this is usually because the resistors have burnt out. Regards Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryboy Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Countryboy, I'm not looking at the relay, I'm looking at he resistor pack. Mine only works at full speed, this is usually because the resistors have burnt out. Regards Mike Sorry, fingers and brain not connected, meant to say resistor but typed relay...doh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rqsall Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 On non-softdash cars with aircon, it's where Bowie69 says. This is where it's on my '91 with aircon. Without aircon I've been told it's indeed by the heater and requires dismantling of the dash to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Mine has aircon so should be where bowie69 says. I'll report back after the weekend when, with luck it will be sorted. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 Got the old one out today, it was exactly where Bowie69 said it wold be. It is a completely corroded mess, seems to have failed from years of weather through the vent rather than overheating, three of the terminals fell off when I touched them! Plug wouldn't pull though so I've just snipped the wires of the old resistor (the ones that didn't fall off) and will solder and heatshrink to some new metal clad resistors I've ordered from Farnell. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Hi Mike, When you did you heater resistor repair, do you know which value resistors you used? Part numbers would be great.... I need to do mine. Thanks Duncan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAK Posted July 6, 2013 Author Share Posted July 6, 2013 Hi Duncan, When I did mine I made a tray out of some scrap ally sheet I had lying around and attached it to the original mounts under the decker panel. It's a bit fiddly but it can be done through the vent opening. The values I used are 0R5, 1R5 and 2R0 all 50W. Highest value for lowest speed obviously. I got mine from Farnell, part numbers 9508058, 9508198 and 9508287 Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Hi Duncan,When I did mine I made a tray out of some scrap ally sheet I had lying around and attached it to the original mounts under the decker panel. It's a bit fiddly but it can be done through the vent opening. P1010542.JPG The values I used are 0R5, 1R5 and 2R0 all 50W. Highest value for lowest speed obviously. I got mine from Farnell, part numbers 9508058, 9508198 and 9508287 Mike Perfect! Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddexter Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Hi Duncan, When I did mine I made a tray out of some scrap ally sheet I had lying around and attached it to the original mounts under the decker panel. It's a bit fiddly but it can be done through the vent opening. P1010542.JPG The values I used are 0R5, 1R5 and 2R0 all 50W. Highest value for lowest speed obviously. I got mine from Farnell, part numbers 9508058, 9508198 and 9508287 Mike Hi Mike. My heater/air con only blows on speed 3 so this thread is a great find, thanks I've just ordered these from CPC Farnell for £7.60. Much cheaper than the £50 I have seen, albeit complete with bracket. Going to have a go as soon as they arrive. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Yeah, I ordered mine too from the same place. I have them sat in the envelope somewhere......... Must get round to fitting them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malachite Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 You should also look at the connections on the fan control switches, they were in a poor condition on my old hard dash classic due to overheating which softened the copper terminals, after a good clean up all 3 speeds worked again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 This is exactly what I did to repair mine, except I shopped at from RS Components, which is where work has an account . Can't recall the R values but 50W, same type as Mike used. I had to remove half the dash to remove the rusty old ones, all because someone on the production line had been rather over zealous with the cable ties. There was no slack on the loom at all :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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