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Axle choice


redrodant

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A reasonable combo I saw was Nissan on the front and Toyota FJ80 on the rear.

If you use FJ80 all round, you will probably have to up-rate the front shafts & CV's to Longfields as the OE ones appear not to be that much of an improvement over Land Rover.

Si

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land cruiser rear due to correct diff offset

patrol y61 front axle but you will need to fit a locker as they aint factory fit

cv wise the y61 are a tad bigger than a cruiser cv but are not as easy to get upgrade parts for as it is with cruiser stuff.

over the new year ill be making my own front axle due to the weakish front diff that the 80series has

ill be using the uprated shafts and cvs then will the using the massive 9.5" rear 80 series diff.... see if i can break that one then =]

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land cruiser rear due to correct diff offset

patrol y61 front axle but you will need to fit a locker as they aint factory fit

cv wise the y61 are a tad bigger than a cruiser cv but are not as easy to get upgrade parts for as it is with cruiser stuff.

over the new year ill be making my own front axle due to the weakish front diff that the 80series has

ill be using the uprated shafts and cvs then will the using the massive 9.5" rear 80 series diff.... see if i can break that one then =]

I'm sure you will :D

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One advantage of the Rover axle is it's small size, which results in good ground clearance. Nissan or Toy axles may be stronger and better suited to cope with 36" tyres, but if you lose some groundclearance, maybe 35" on Rover axles is a better choice.

So why not reinforce the internals of a Rover axle?

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So why not reinforce the internals of a Rover axle?

The cost! You can easily sink £2.5K in a pair of axles.... If I was doing it again, it would be Patrol front and Yota rear, very strong axles and easy enough to fit -job done for £500 I reckon.

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The cost! You can easily sink £2.5K in a pair of axles.... If I was doing it again, it would be Patrol front and Yota rear, very strong axles and easy enough to fit -job done for £500 I reckon.

i,ll have a pair for 500 :D they are making silly money now

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One advantage of the Rover axle is it's small size, which results in good ground clearance. Nissan or Toy axles may be stronger and better suited to cope with 36" tyres, but if you lose some groundclearance, maybe 35" on Rover axles is a better choice.

So why not reinforce the internals of a Rover axle?

I don't think that that argument has much of a base. it'd be interesting to have a measure?

There is enough room in a rover case for ashcroft to squeeze a 9" diff inside.

The tlc 80 front is a 8" with i think more clearance than a rover.

A nissan front certainly has a bigger diff center than a rover but the shape and mounting of the radius arms offer more clearance under the axle tubes.

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Depends what you want I guess. As your running 36 inch tyres I'l lassume its not ARC. I run a salisbury rear with detroit with 37 inch slicks! front is stdndard 10 spline and weak weak 4.7 stock but slicks help! will be upgrading to ashcroft front shafts and a decent diff center. intrestingly last local comp we did i managed not to break anything where as another sorted motor done a front stubshaft Kam and a rear shaft.

Poor video Q,

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I don't think that that argument has much of a base. it'd be interesting to have a measure?

There is enough room in a rover case for ashcroft to squeeze a 9" diff inside.

The tlc 80 front is a 8" with i think more clearance than a rover.

A nissan front certainly has a bigger diff center than a rover but the shape and mounting of the radius arms offer more clearance under the axle tubes.

Not taken any measurements, but when we went wheeling with other brands (in the old days), we often noted that Nissan and Toys would bottom out in deep ruts were Rovers with the same tyre size had no problem at all and could reverse to give the others a tow.

I agree Ashcroft isn't cheap, but fitting other brand axles requires a lot more work than changing just the internals, and if you can't do all the welding and machining yourself, it will also add to the cost.

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I don't think that that argument has much of a base. it'd be interesting to have a measure?

There is enough room in a rover case for ashcroft to squeeze a 9" diff inside.

The tlc 80 front is a 8" with i think more clearance than a rover.

A nissan front certainly has a bigger diff center than a rover but the shape and mounting of the radius arms offer more clearance under the axle tubes.

DirtyD's about right- the diff casings between cruisers and landrovers are about the same, but cruiser have hypoid diffs with the diff nose at the top of the case.

the front half shafts and CVs in an 80 series are definitely stronger than rover stuff- there's not many rover CVs that will take a 2 tonne vehicle, nose down in a rocky ravine, on full lock, with 35" MTs, with the locker in, and a huge bootful of power in reverse- the cruiser has done it time and time again (and don'tforget the engine is a 4.2tdi so not exactly underpowered). And these are standard axles straight out of the factory. In the states you can also source all sorts of different ratios without trouble. They are in my opinion a better design than the rover axle in terms of layout of seals, size of stub axle, and strength of drive member- certainly they tend to have far fewer seized bolts, or rusty internals.

Having said that, the locker isn't as positive as an air locker, the fronts of 80s don't like running in reverse (being hypoid and all that- hence they are weaker than the frankly mahoosive rear- not uncommon to have a set of diffs with the front diff with tripped teeth) and when parts do break you either end up with very very very cheap stuff which is only marginally better than the rover stuff or you end up having to buy longfields. To boot the cruiser axles seem to wear quicker than the rover stuff- certainly most cruisers will star to get clicking cvs at the 130-140k point (althouh they often go on to do 200k miles without breaking).

having said all that, on a pound/strength analysis they are good value- with lockers, good strength, 4.11 ratios as standard and value for money parts (CVs and shafts excepted) they certainly aren't a bad choice.

Oh and i just happen to have a spare pair of cruiser CVs if anyone needs a pair - as mentioned the front has a stripped crownwheel!

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I have broken std landcruiser 80 front cvs on a road car with 33" tyres so as std spec I dont rate the cvs to be much better than aeu2522? but the hd 80 series replacements are believed to be as strong if not stronger than ashcroft and possibly cheaper.

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I have been running a salisbury rear axle in my truck for several years with standard shafts on 35" fedimas which are slightly more than 35" with no problems at all other than you lose a bit of ground clearance.

Front axle with uprated internals are different matter, they just dont last.

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I have broken std landcruiser 80 front cvs on a road car with 33" tyres so as std spec I dont rate the cvs to be much better than aeu2522? but the hd 80 series replacements are believed to be as strong if not stronger than ashcroft and possibly cheaper.

the cvs on my 80 series axle under my comp truck lasted over a year before breaking and im running it on 37" boggers, previous to me having the axles plastic badger ran them with 37" iroks

i dont know the milage on the axle so that has to be taken into account.

there certainly stronger than uprated rover stuff as i was breaking that all the time when running simex

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Having said that, the locker isn't as positive as an air locker

I think you will find the poor locker activation is down to the std cruiser locker relay, i replaced mine with 4x 40amp relays and my front enguages less than a second after i flick the switch, the rear is now probably still quicker than an arb

the cvs on my 80 series axle under my comp truck lasted over a year before breaking and im running it on 37" boggers, previous to me having the axles plastic badger ran them with 37" iroks

i dont know the milage on the axle so that has to be taken into account.

there certainly stronger than uprated rover stuff as i was breaking that all the time when running simex

Me too, 37" boggers, 2 cvs in 18 months.

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locker activation is useless, the front it ok but the back gave me nightmares so it was to the drawing boards for a new actuator.

a few hours later on the lathe i had my own air actuator and it works far better than the std unit

it also takes less than 5 minutes to service after a comp

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Mine are really good, are you sure you wired them up correctly? :ph34r:

another little problem i had with a friends axle was the front difflock actuation shaft in the diff had lots of dried up ep90 burnt on to it,

we stripped the diff and cleaned the gunk off everything it now works as it should

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