Mutley Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 Oooops try this http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Electrical_Miscellany.html#aZZPLUG01 Sorry not VWP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Try Bolt on bits, or just have a look on the fleebay... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-HEADLAMP-BULB-CONNECTOR-REPAIR-PLUG-BLOCK-472-/140557899377?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b9e75671 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Can someone point me in the Direction of an H4 connector for the back of the headlight? (even better if there is a male version to fit onto the existing wiring for the feed! One of my winter projects is to fit the new bulbs and lenses I have along with a new headlight loom with relays etc . Here you go... http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/lighting/headlamps.php Scroll down a bit.... Buy three, then you have spares.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 Just a wndred if some one can explane? It has been mentioned about voltage with regards to light out put......i have a 12 volt battery and the standard 65 amp alternator...... So if all's good what is the voltage i should be getting at the battery?......And how much voltage drop to any given point such as the lights is acceptable? If Voltage is low at the battery end how do you improve it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finnarne Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 When your engine is running, and your alternator charging, you should get 14.2-14.4volt. When the engine has been idle for a while, typically over night, you should have 12.6 volt. If you have less than 12.6 volt on your battery when it's been idle over night, then try to charge the battery fully using a charger, not the alternator. If you still cant get enough voltage from you battery after it's had it's beaty sleep, then replace the battery. If you can get enough voltage on the battery using a charger, then check the voltage again when engine is running. If you don't get 14.2-14.4, replace your alternator, or maybe the regulator/bushes. It may help to open the alternator and clean it. If you get more than 14-15volt from your alternator, then the regulator is gone, and it may help to replace the regulator. or replace the alternator. on a lot of alternators these days, you cant replace the regulator. Also check the wiring if your battery is good, the alternetor gives 14.4 volt, but you only get ~12 volt at the battery when charging. Replace the wires as necessary, using 35mm² or better wiring Also check any junctions, like on the starter, earth point etc. I have 0.3 volt loss over the negative cable on on of my cars when the engine is idling, lights and fan on. That is too much, and I'm hunting for voltage drops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SORNagain Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 The alternator in my classic is a Bosch 90A out of a volvo. This seems to have a fixed output of 14v, but I know that some alternators are slightly temperature dependent and give a higher voltage at low temperatures, to aid charging in cold weather. I took out the original 65A alternator, whose output I found to be a bit 'bendy' - i.e the voltage dropped under load. It's not that it gave me any problem, but i figured it was a sensible upgrade given the addition of split charge and extra loads installed. Unlike finname I am not too bothered about voltage drops on the cables to the battery, since all the voltage critical loads are wired directly to the alternator, and I don't care about those when the engine is off anyway. I know that even with a flatish battery the initial high current charge will only last about 5 minutes max, and after that It will be lucky to charge at much more that 15A. As the charge current drops so will any voltage drops in the wiring, so the only effect is marginally longer charging time. So, I would say that if you have anything above 13v at the bulb thats pretty good, if not try and improve the wiring from the alternator to the bulb (possibly using relays off the existing headlamp loom.) Don't forget this includes any ground straps from the chassis to the engine too. Don't worry too much about the battery since it only presents a load when the engine is running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Here you go... http://www.vehicle-w...g/headlamps.php Scroll down a bit.... Buy three, then you have spares.... Cheers! Wonder which will be more robust, clear or black.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Don't know Ross. I generally use the white but I have a spare in black ? Both will melt with 100/ 55 Watt bulbs wired together. Mutley I have a Discovery 100Amp alternator. I've added a second wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid as I believe most of the volt drops can be in the connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 My main and dip will not be on together! no lense is going to cope with 190w of lighting heat!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 My main and dip will not be on together! no lense is going to cope with 190w of lighting heat!!! Anything other than a 55Watt dip is antisocial....Besides the cip light pattern will be wrong because of the thicker fillament.....LOL Yes the lens will cope. I've done it on my rally car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Antisocial, never mind illegal! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Ok then, I have checked the the volts on the battery and it's 14.29v with nothing on........At the lights it's 13.5v So can i take it that all is ok and the wiring up grade is working as it should then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SORNagain Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Yeah, I reckon that's pretty good. I don't think the bulbs are rated to any more than that anyway. Since posting I realised that my original alternator was actually only 45A, which is why I replaced it. So your 65A one is probably easily good enough too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Don't know Ross. I generally use the white but I have a spare in black ? Both will melt with 100/ 55 Watt bulbs wired together. Mutley I have a Discovery 100Amp alternator. I've added a second wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid as I believe most of the volt drops can be in the connectors. No they wont melt, as long as the wiring is done properly and you've got good clean contacts. The lenses too on the wipec crystals appear to be fine also. I find it hard to belive its illegal, on my focus, the main headlights don't go out when I put my high beams on? Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 No they wont melt, as long as the wiring is done properly and you've got good clean contacts. The lenses too on the wipec crystals appear to be fine also. I find it hard to belive its illegal, on my focus, the main headlights don't go out when I put my high beams on? Mav Its not because the bulbs are on together... but the fact my bulbs are more than 55w. Not illegal due to the age of my truck however. Once I get round to fitting them they will be correctly adjusted. And I will get dad to drive the 90 past me in the pug so I can see what they are like. They cannot be any worse than the volvo's lights, they blind you as you go past even on dip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Just my 2p but i had some of them halfords super dooper pint of milk a day bulbs in a fiesta and come MOT we put them against the wall and the pattern was absoloute sh1te with light spread everywhere no wonder i got flashed at alot, swapped them out for some decent brand bulbs (lucas or champion IIRC) and the pattern returned, night driving was hardly any worse. I did put some hella 150% brighter bulbs in a td5 wich made a good difference and seemed to keep a respectable pattern. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 I had the crystal headlight units I bought from an eBay store-can't remember who they were from for the life of me-anyway, I noticed they were'nt as bright even with 90% brighter bulbs in them(and the place where I get my MOT's done made a comment about the beam pattern being wrong too) as my old glass lens headlight units so I changed them back and put the 90% brighter bulbs into them, I now have the correct head light beam pattern and I also uprated my head light wiring loom et-al Mikes diagram and I now have 50-60% better light which seeing as I live in the sticks is a vast improvement, Yes they are a bit bright but worth it just so I don't have to have a couple of candles where the bulbs should be, It's well worth doing the wiring upgrade and not too complicated even for an electrical novice like me-oh and I used the 9mm-3/8" lucar connectors on the rear of the bulbs covered in heat shrink as I used the same gauge wiring as I did to take the power from the stater motor solenoid from the 70 amp relays to the bulbs, Yes i know this maybe a tad over engineered but I did'nt want to use the plastic plugs in case they melted during use of the headlights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r o,gorman Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 do you need to upgrade wiring on 07 puma to fit h4 night breaker bulbs 60/55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 No you don’t, that is the standard factory fit wattage. They would benefit from a relay loom to take the current off the headlight switch though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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