sandythelandy Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Hello all!, So I've got a 2001 td5 hi-cap defender with no previous history of hard starts, manual, a recently wired in piggyback fuel controller. The chassis has been bobtailed, therefore the standard fuel tank is mounted in a higher position than normal, i.e. sitting on the chassis directly behind the cab, the lines are standard and look a bit of a dog's dinner right now. Now, before I jump to your answers of 'why' let me state the 'how'. I've had the piggyback installed for a few weeks now and the td5 hasn't skipped a beat until now. I was driving merrily along and coming into traffic I managed to stall it (It was the new master and slave cylinder's fault, I swear). Then it refused to start again. So I got out to check and I realise that the fuel pump sounds quite noisy, so I go through the bleed process, and it still doesn't start (cranking but no catch). I get a tow home and when I arrive I remove the battery to give it a nice charge. After it's done I try to start it again, it has always started almost immediately, but this time a lengthy crank period, 2-5 secs, it catches and I reverse it properly into my drive. I leave it idling or a few minutes and then shut it down. When I returned later in the day it cranks but no start again all lights come on in the dash like normal, but no dice :S. long story short, since then I've 1) Broke the bank and bought a new battery 2) Checked the glow plug relay, main relay and all fuses 3) Tried a second ECU 4) Beat the living daylights out of my pump 5) Doped the intake with a drop of gas 6) Fiddled with all relays and swapped postions of the same type 7) Checked all fuses none of those worked, however, now I've been messing with the relays the starter does this strange flutter-start mixed with a clackity-clack sound and doesn't want to start and/or I turn the key to 'start' and nothing happens (including no orange lights on the dash), which leaves me now wondering: Have I knackered my starter? Does it sound relay related? what can I do next? Any suggestions/theories are welcome and I can provide photos if needed. Sorry If I've rambled a bit I've had a long day fighting with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 It sounds like the starter to me anyway, I had to change the brushes in mine a couple of months ago. Try giving it(the starter) a tap with a hammer before turning it over if that helps then that is your problem and a pretty easy one to fix if your lucky. It could also be sucking air into the system somewhere after all the mods, which will lightly be a pig to find where. Best of luck getting it sorted and I'm sure someone else on here will be able to offer more help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCC Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 The piggyback fuel controller needs a minimum voltage while starting, say above 8. A bad starter could drag the vehicle voltage down from friction but often it's the reverse and the starter won't draw current so scratch that idea. If all the electrical and mechanical checks are good then could your fuel have bugs and/or water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandythelandy Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 Many, many thanks for the responses so far guys. Oap, I think you're right the starter taps stopped the intermittent cycling. JCC I'm in the process of checking all the lines/ regulators and filters. I've bought a meter and I seem to have no current at the glow plugs so I may start a seperate thread to discuss it. But I will update in this thread also to let you guys know what the problem was/is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Just replied on the glow plug one, you're barking up the wrong tree there. The starter clicking/not turning properly suggests bad battery but you've fitted a new one. I had a recent no start but that was simply a manky loose trigger wire on to the solenoid. A failing starter will send a dirty spike up the loom and upset the signal from the crank sensor, the CPS is the only sensor that will stop a Td5 running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandythelandy Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 Lol, thanks Sean, the starter's sorted now, I had borrowed another CPS to see if mine was duff, but it didn't work either, so I guess not. I'm on to the fuel lines after dinner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandythelandy Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Ok, I've pinned it! there's a small kink in one of the return lines that was causing some air to get in the system, I'm also not sure if the excess pressure f*cked the pump but I'll have to order one as soon as I can. Thanks to all for your help! If ever in Barbados I'll buy ya a beer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Glad you've got it sorted! That's the trouble with having something that a PO has heavily modified, I'd hate to be the next owner of my 110!! Be careful unplugging the lines off the pump, it's easy to snap them. The lines are preformed to the correct length and bends which may the problem if all yours have been re-routed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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