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Vehicle Wiring


muddyplugger

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My battery isolator switch is my main 'anti-theft sysem' on the defender. :ph34r:

I am now attempting to bypass this for a permanent suppy for the Radio (I hate reprograming it every time), and I note I have wired my isolator switch to the negative terminal.

Why did I do this I asked myself? Answer = I know nothing about electrics in the first instance, and my Dad always told me that it is safest to remove the negative terminal when working on the car, prevents 'sparks' incase of spanner grounding. So my befuddled brain obviously said isolate the negative terminal.

It got me thinking (dangerous when I dont really understand the subject), but surely the isolator should be fitted to the positive terminal? For one it would then be possible to bypass it with one wire for my auxillary needs!

Other reasons?: When wired to the negative, there seems to be a residual voltage that takes a while to dissipate once turned off. Is this bad??

If I try to start the vehicle with isolator switched off, does the alternator try and 'draw' current from the battery? but has no way back? I have done this accidently and is has occasionally made a few loud thunking noises! Is this possible?

Does it really matter which is isolated?? :unsure:

I apologise for this being a bit of a soft topic. :blush:

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It sounds like you're not totally disconnecting the earth, if you're getting any kind of noise at all when you try to start it while it's disconnected. Electrically, it doesn't matter which terminal you isolate but as was said earlier, it's easier to bypass (if you know what to do - how many thieves carry a multimeter?).

The method I've seen for car stereos etc is to put a fuse in parallel with the isolator switch. It can still draw <1A for the radio etc but if you try to start the car with the switch off, you blow the fuse (and lose all your presets!) but turning the switch means the car will start again and you're not disabled permanently.

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It sounds like you're not totally disconnecting the earth, if you're getting any kind of noise at all when you try to start it while it's disconnected

Thats what I assumed as it only happens very occasionally.

I think a quick re-wire to the positive in the morning is called for.

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If your battery has tapered posts, rather than flat plates with holes in, the posts are different sizes.

Obviously, I don't know how you are connecting to the battery, but if your rearrangement involves moving something from one tapered battery terminal to the other, you need to be aware of this size difference.

The clamp pictured earlier could be described as 'wrap round, with a side bolt'. The simpler clamps of this style, where the wires are attached to the clamp with screws, are marked Pos and Neg for this reason (the difference in post size).

HTH

Actually, I hope the caution is unnecessary :-)

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If your battery has tapered posts, rather than flat plates with holes in, the posts are different sizes.

Obviously, I don't know how you are connecting to the battery, but if your rearrangement involves moving something from one tapered battery terminal to the other, you need to be aware of this size difference.

The clamp pictured earlier could be described as 'wrap round, with a side bolt'. The simpler clamps of this style, where the wires are attached to the clamp with screws, are marked Pos and Neg for this reason (the difference in post size).

HTH

Actually, I hope the caution is unnecessary :-)

Good thinking Batman. Mine was actually designed to fit on the -ve post and had a blue knob, the one in Vehicle Wiring Products Catalogue has a green knob, and there is no mention of which post it fits on.

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Obviously, I don't know how you are connecting to the battery, but if your rearrangement involves moving something from one tapered battery terminal to the other, you need to be aware of this size difference.

The clamp pictured earlier could be described as 'wrap round, with a side bolt'. The simpler clamps of this style, where the wires are attached to the clamp with screws, are marked Pos and Neg for this reason (the difference in post size).

I have noticed this today, as I swopped it over! Obviously the isloator switch is suited to the neg terminal, but it did go on the postitive (with some persuasion!) :D

For the radio, actually routed a fused wire direct from the battery. As I frequently forget that I have the isolator key on my key ring when I start the car.

BUT, if this switch is supposed to be on the neg, then I'd better think again. Mind you it hasn't set alight yet. [/crossfingermodeon]

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and my Dad always told me that it is safest to remove the negative terminal when working on the car, prevents 'sparks' incase of spanner grounding. So my befuddled brain obviously said isolate the negative terminal.

the same is true if you discconnect the +ve terminal surely? (unless you are running the alternator whcih you shouldn't be!)

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