defender-kris Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 hi lads i have found a 24v superwinch can i make it into 12v is it a case of just changing the motor over ???????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 what about the solenoids? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kobold Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 Why should you? 24V winches uses half the amps of 12V Add an extra battery, connect this in serie to the other, connect the mass cable to the original - pole and the mains to the +pole of extra battery. snag in here is that the battery's should be of same amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 How were you planning on charging the second battery? What you suggest would be a very bad design. Yes you can convert 24 to 12, change motor and solenoid and job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kobold Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 By using a switch (preferably a solenoid) that changes the leads from parallel to series, doubling the battery capacity at 12V, and that is why they should be of the same amps. At normal driving the batteries are in series and evenly loaded, then when you turn on the winch, the 2nd battery is switched from series to parallel and the winch and solenoids are powered the correct voltage. When you switch off the batteries return in their series state, an get both charged. To avoid 24V leakage to the car's electric's, it might be wise to connect a voltage regulator between the + of the genuine battery and the 12v electrics tough. That's how I planned to connect a 24V Ramsey in my 90.... With my rusty knowledge of electrics should this be a feasible solution, please prove me wrong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I might be wrong here but I thought that 24 vollt motors were parrallel wound and 12 volt motors series wound, ie the same windings wired up differently. It makes the manufacture much cheaper because essentially they are the same thing. Alternatively I guess the 24volt motor would be worth something second hand. Nice find though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 By using a switch (preferably a solenoid) that changes the leads from parallel to series, doubling the battery capacity at 12V, and that is why they should be of the same amps. At normal driving the batteries are in series and evenly loaded, then when you turn on the winch, the 2nd battery is switched from series to parallel and the winch and solenoids are powered the correct voltage. When you switch off the batteries return in their series state, an get both charged. To avoid 24V leakage to the car's electric's, it might be wise to connect a voltage regulator between the + of the genuine battery and the 12v electrics tough. That's how I planned to connect a 24V Ramsey in my 90.... With my rusty knowledge of electrics should this be a feasible solution, please prove me wrong! Be careful, you need to get your parallel and series the right way round. You also need to be very careful about switching from one to the other, get the sequence wrong and you will short out a battery - and that's not a good thing to do. This method of obtaining 24v is only good for low duty cycle use, as the second battery is not connected to the alternator during use, where as the first one is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SORNagain Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I am keen to obtain 24v for different reasons, but it is applicable to this application, I have a 24v Eberspacher, and have been considering adding a second alternator in order to run it. (I already have a second battery) My plan is to isolate the chassis of the second alternator and then connect it and the battery to obtain -12v (i.e the + of the second battery is connected to the chassis). Then it is easy to get 24v by connecting between the -12 and the existing +12 terminals. You can then also share additional 12v loads between the batteries, and there are no battery balancing issues. I would suggest that buying a second alternator & battery would be cheaper than another motor, and you get to keep the other benefits that 24v brings. You also get the output of 2 alternators while you are winching. I am nervous about physically isolating the case of the second alternator from the engine though (one false move with a spanner could be rather spectacular!), so the only option is to separate the bond internally. I have seen some alternators where this would be easy, and others in which it would not...... Anybody else done it this way or am I mad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 Why not just fit and wire up a 24 volt alternator? Then you can run 12 and 24 volt systems., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SORNagain Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I did consider that for a while, but there is not the same freedom to connect the loads without over charging/discharging one battery or the other. I could connect the ground of the second alternator to the positive of the first, but it still involves isolating the alternator, and I reckon the +/-12 arrangement is marginally safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 By using a switch (preferably a solenoid) that changes the leads from parallel to series, doubling the battery capacity at 12V, and that is why they should be of the same amps. At normal driving the batteries are in series and evenly loaded, then when you turn on the winch, the 2nd battery is switched from series to parallel and the winch and solenoids are powered the correct voltage. When you switch off the batteries return in their series state, an get both charged. To avoid 24V leakage to the car's electric's, it might be wise to connect a voltage regulator between the + of the genuine battery and the 12v electrics tough. That's how I planned to connect a 24V Ramsey in my 90.... With my rusty knowledge of electrics should this be a feasible solution, please prove me wrong! Completely wrong!! you have your series and parallel the wrong way around do this and bang! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Why not leave the landy electrics as they are and fit a 24 volt alternator and two batteries for a totally seperate system. (The winch challenge method) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 There's no need to isolate the body if the 24v alternator from the engine, that's its earth connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SORNagain Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 There's no need to isolate the body if the 24v alternator from the engine, that's its earth connection. Not if I was using a 24v alternator no, but I'm planning to use a 12v one to give -12v. The positive of the alternator will be connected to the chassis, and the earth connection (which hopefuly I will have isolated by this point) will then give me -12v. Anyway sorry if this has turned into a hijacking - but I would keep the winch 24v! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Would i get in trouble for saying here that i have a TDS 12.5 24v going spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Spin the alternator backward for -12 ? Only kidding -12volt sounds more faf than a seperate +24volt. And +24 means a system that can be flatened right out, without affecting the trucks engine. Yes George, you'll get into trouble I recon I looked up motor prices to see what it would cost to re-grade your Tds 'for sale' to 12volt. It made it less apealing If you can get 24volt out of a trucks electrics, the second hand winch prices are definately lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yella 90 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 all this talking about doing it and you could of had a dedicated 24v system up and running by now.....or fitted a david bowyer turbo pack. i personally run a dedicated 24v system on my comp truck, simple and reliable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burko_uk Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 Or just swapped the motor over... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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