MECCANO Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Ah sorry, got the wrong end of the stick.. again Yeah i tihnk he did, i have it in my favorites on my home pc. I will post up the link later tonight. My setup isn't as fancy or rigid as his. i'm trying a bar/link setup to teh top of the axle which is normally used in rwd leaf sprung cars/ hotrods. Essentially its a 4-link method, but you use the leaf's to act as the bottom link. You can still achieve some wrap, but it is significantly reduced I think Soren has something similar, but -uses one link at the top of the axle. ( which i also have a link for soem where). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Better late than never. Fridges anti wrap: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=17658&st=0&p=180391&hl=anti-tramp&fromsearch=1entry180391 Soren's: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26822 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 Minor update................ Did my VRT test today (MOT) passed with flying colours, brakes are excellent and tested to the max, as when the tester dabed the rears on the rollers the landy flew off them........... Minor leak from the pinion oil seal (grrrrrrr) G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 Good work what master cyclinder are you using on yours Gremlin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Before you replace the seal, try one of the leak-stop oil additives - the soften and swell the seal and it might cure the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 I have a late 200tdi master and pedal, the same like the 300tdi. The seal i put in was a leather one, soaked before fitting. I doubt those additives will work. The flange land is fine with no groves. I guess i will have to live with it at the moment, the other diff was the same, always with a wet bottom G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Did you fit the seal with the metal edge dry, or did you use sealant around the edge? If you did use sealant, it might just be the seal leather still softening up and polishing smooth. The additives certainly won't work on leather, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 No seal installed with hylomar at the edge, should be good. Leak has not increased, it just makes the housing damp at the bottom. Its going to stay like that, i do not feel like crawling under it to get it done for the moment. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Interesting topic! I'm looking at my options for getting my Lightweight disc brakes, Can this approach be taken with 88" axles? I presume it must be possible as the Zeus/RM kits work in the same way, but I see you decided to start with a Salisbury was this just to start with a rock solid axle in the first place or do they fit the 90 stubs where others don't? Appreciate any info Duncan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 You should be able to do it to any rover axle with the right bits. The salisbury is just what i had available and free. The process is the same or similar to get a rover axle converted to discs, the face of the stub axle mount should be in the same place, so all you need are the same brackets i used. Unless you get a coiler axle and shorten that to size, if you wish to keep your current track width. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Hmmmm good question, i have no idea, but they look like forged and not cast. My fronts are flame cut from normal steel, 3 years on and they are still fine. I am at standstill at the moment, rebuilding a series 2 box for a freind. G Hi Grem, How thick were the steel plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 Errrr i cannot remember but look for the post when i did my fronts to get an idea. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Hi Gremlin, great work on the conversion. Am I correct in that you ended up using SIII rear 109 Sals stub axles? What hubs did you end up running? (it all got a bit confusing in there for me haha) reason I ask is Im looking to convert my 300tdi 110 to the earlier, longer stubs and wider hubs (better bearing seperation). The front end is pretty easy on these as the earlier stuff is already disc. But for the rear, the last of the long stubs were drums. Obviously I already have the caliper mount and caliper. I just need to find what stub and hub to run (and what rotor...) cheers Serg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 I used early defender (drum braked) rear stubs and early defender front hubs. (They are the wider stubs for the same inb & outb wheel bearing) The front hubs had discs fit to them. It all bolts together. If you allready have the caliper and mount bracket off a Salisbury axle, I believe you will need the 298mm x 14mm discs with the 70mm offset. Standard front/rear solid disc. I'm using the TD5 disc with the 59mm offset and will have to make custom mount brackets for the rear calipers. Do you agree, Grem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 Yep true and correct, drum brake stubs (later ones with same bearings) front hubs and discs from a 110/90 (early ones) G I used early defender (drum braked) rear stubs and early defender front hubs. (They are the wider stubs for the same inb & outb wheel bearing)The front hubs had discs fit to them.It all bolts together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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