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Silicone Sealants


JeffR

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Now that I have functional fingers again (very few finger nails, but what the hell at least I won't get oil under them....) tis time to restart work on the Landrover.

I have been looking at various brands/types of silicone sealants and have a very simple question, what is the difference between RTV silicone and generic silicone sealants, other than a serious price premium on the former?

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RTV just stands for Room Temperature Vulcanising - meaning it sets at room temperature, so it really applies to most or all of the silicone sealant products you see.

The price premium is usually related to either the stable temperature range in use, or to the base solvents used. The cheapers ones are (IIRC) acetic acid based (smell like vinegar), are slightly corrosive, and aren't considered safe for use around electronics for that reason. They can also poison lambda sensors.

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What have you done to yourself Jeff?

I kinda snapped the tips of my right thumb, index finger and ring finger, oh and dislocated my middle finger a wee while ago.......

Cheers TSD, been using the stuff for years and never realised.

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For sealing minute gaps in bulkheads, etc, before spraying I use decorators caulk, very easy to apply.

For larger gaps I'd use tiger seal, which is a PU (Polyurethene?) adhesive. It sticks very well, remains flexible and is generally good stuff. A bitch to remove from the fingers (if you have any) but good stuff.

For engines etc I use paper gaskets, smeared with a small layer of grease. Works well.

G.

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Don't use silicone any where near any thing you want to paint. Paint will not stick to silicone at all it will however stick to polyuethene and poly sulphide both very good sealants. I personally only use silicone as a last resort as once you have used it you can't use anything else. Silicone is extremely difficult to remove all trace of.

Mike

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Does no-one use seam sealer? Brushable, caulkable (are they even words? :P ) stays flexable and is overpaintable, wonderful for tidying up dodgy bodywork patches :ph34r: and even works well as an exhaust paste.

For sealing gaskets i use some red gasket stuff from the motor factors and for sticking my hands together, to the workpiece and the workpiece to everything else within 10miles i use tiger seal.

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I must admit to not having much succes with gaskets, and revert to dow corning black gue. Landrover recommends this for the sump I think, I saw a workshop bulletin once were it stated to use it to stop leaks. The sump is never flat enough for a gasket to take up, and than you have the point were the block meets the front cover which is never completely smooth. They are also cast iron and aluminium, so different expansion. A gasket is not good enough here in my opinion.

also, the great thing with instant when you go offroading in the middle of nowhere is you only need one tube and you can seal the whole car!

Disadvantage is if you use too much, it will end up in the oil and the mess you have to clear up if you take it apart again.

Daan

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What a load of krap Daan.....

Block to front cover....Come and look at mine...Home made paper gasket....

Your vehicle should be sorted in the workshop before going out.....

If you use too much you could have a big disadvantage with getting the oil galleries blocked like I know of a Gardner HLW engine where the builder used too much Stag.

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Oi mike, you cant spell! That, and you just telling us you use it for the sump as well, so judging from that, you are as carp as I am.

I do use a gasket between block and front cover, but not between block and sump, like yourself.

I dont use it on the p gasket, there is a seration in there which allows a bit of movement and this seals ok as it is.

Keep smiling, Daan

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Daan. That's something I've known since 1945 ...........

Land Rover DO NOT supply a sump gasket for the 300Tdi they recomend and use a sealant. Rolls Royce do not have any gaskets on their B Series engines. They developed a sealant called Hylomar for that engine.

I consider any sealant of any kind used with a paper, card or rubber gasket to be a botched job

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For larger gaps I'd use tiger seal, which is a PU (Polyurethene?) adhesive. It sticks very well, remains flexible and is generally good stuff. A bitch to remove from the fingers (if you have any) but good stuff.

G.

i also use this :i-m_so_happy: i used it on the floor panels, god help the next person that has to remove it! :hysterical:

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i also use this :i-m_so_happy: i used it on the floor panels, god help the next person that has to remove it! :hysterical:

Having screwed/glued/bonded and bolted in the rear floor panel in September ish ONLY to have to remove the bloody thing to recover a 1/4 drive ratchet and a chuck key, I can vouch for the efficacy of Tiger seal! If Ronnie from YRM reads this, that nice bit of alloysheet you cut for me is looking very second hand at the mo.......

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I have an intense dislike for RTV overuse. When I tarted up the 200di, I took 6 inches of the stuff from the water galleries, and four 1 inch sections from the oil pump strainer. Unpleasant way to kill an engine.

Horrid stuff in overuse. The tdi200 also has no sump gasket, and I was forced to use it there, applied sparingly to a bone dry solvent free surface. The stiffener plate was also supposed to have no gasket, however the series sump has the same stud pattern so I used one of those in preference to RTV.

G.

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How flexible does Tiger Seal stay after "fitting". I take it it's good an aluminium.

Reasonably - it would be similar to the movement an engine mounting would allow, as it is if similar composition, I believe. On a dry solvent surface it sticks very well indeed, removal would be by "mechanical means".

G.

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