galwayguy Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Following the brilliant advice here - thanks to all involved - I need to remove the residue left by the old head gasket. It was one of the new MLS type & it has left a grey residue, presumable the stuff that bonds the shim to the head. It's hard to remove & I obviously don't want to scratch the alloy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 i use a old half power hacksaw blade grownd to a nife edge or an old file are good as there stronger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 ^^^^^ What he said, just be patient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 If you've got a few hours, dab some "Nitromors" oil-based paint-stripper on the gasket-remains. This will soften the bonding-agent that's holding bits of gasket to the head/block surface. Then scrape off with a *soft* scraper (hard nylon or aluminium, *not* steel - you do not want to scratch the mating faces!) blow out with an airline any oil/particulate matter from the area where the head-bolts go into the block, and swab down with Isopropyl Alcohol or Acetone to remove all traces of residual oil/grot before reassembly. A clinically-clean set of head- and block-faces is essential before reassembly: likewise you do not want anything down the head-bolt-holes that could affect the bolt torque. --Tanuki. "It's like having a whole saturday-night-town-centre-after-the-clubs-have-closed experience going on inside my skull. Except without the vomiting, the kebabs or the sex-pest minicab-drivers". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickcc Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Fine wet or dry lubricated with oil, make sure you use a sanding block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Fine wet or dry lubricated with oil, make sure you use a sanding block. I would advise against this on a head gasket as the surface must be kept flat & smooth, rubbing abrasives on it or scraping it with something that could gouge the aluminium is a risky business. That said, I find these scrapers really good: http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-windscreen-tools/miniscraper-and-razor-blades.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Hi I have used the above tool and it is very good at stripping, but go easy and keep all of the blade edge on the flat. I have found a wide wood chisel useful also, use with great care. If you get any debris down any of the oil or water galleries grab the hoover and suck it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickcc Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I would advise against this on a head gasket as the surface must be kept flat & smooth, rubbing abrasives on it or scraping it with something that could gouge the aluminium is a risky business. That said, I find these scrapers really good: http://www.frost.co....zor-blades.html Always used the wet and dry method during my 50 years as a mechanic, no problem as long as you use a flat sanding block to keep the surface flat. Using any kind of metal scraper on aluminium type heads can result in a badly scored head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I always made my own scrapers, by flattering and grinding a bit of copper water pipe. For the final clean I use the finest of those abrasive polishing pads - like the plastic brillo pads, but much finer - and some brake cleaner. You can buy spray cans of gasket remover, which sometimes helps - I've only used it on composite gaskets though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I would advise against this on a head gasket as the surface must be kept flat & smooth, rubbing abrasives on it or scraping it with something that could gouge the aluminium is a risky business. That said, I find these scrapers really good: http://www.frost.co....zor-blades.html That's what I used to get the remains of the composite gasket off, they're scrapers for glass-plated electric cookers. They do go dull quickly when you use them on edges though, so be careful, as then they will score the mating face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agent nomad Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Scotch brite the green or brown ones must be clean and scratch free before you put it back together Or have a minimum skim done comes back clean and shinny just needs de-bearing if the machine shop have not done it for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galwayguy Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Thanks everyone. All clean & back together but with another problem & another thread ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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