hoss1720 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 just serviced a 2001 Defender TD5. Changed all the filters and oil,then changed the fule filter. Went through the priming process,all was fine.Left it ticking over and after about 5 mins,the engine spluttered and stopped - would not ,and will not start. It turns over ,but will not fire. It was low on fuel and I thought prhaps it had run out.Fuelled it back up,re-primed - still wont fire up. Started on a process of elimination.From what I can see and hear - the pump is making a noise -burt doesnt appear to filling up the fuel filter. Having disconnected the flow and return pipes,I can feel pressure,but no fule to the filter. All,and any suggestions are more than welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Prime a couple of times, leave it to cycle each time for 5mins, then when you spin her over put the throttle to the floor, should go....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Prime a couple of times, leave it to cycle each time for 5mins, then when you spin her over put the throttle to the floor, should go....... What he said all though I would let it prime 5 or 6 times. Thats key to the second position and leave it until the noise stops after a couple of minutes. x 5 or 6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy andy. Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I would change the fuel filter, again making sure no old seal is left on filter head, and then either fill with new clean fuel, then go thro prime four or five times. Normally there is no need to fill new filter, but it may help in this scenario. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoss1720 Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 I have done all of the above - have even tried to start it by towing - still wont go. The fuel filter just doesnt appear to filling up. The pump is making the noises it should - its just not filling up the filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 switch the ignition on, pump the throttle pedal to the floor and let it return 5 times and the engine management light will flash on the dash, this is a built in priming setup that runs the fuel pump continuously, let it run for a good few minutes and then crank with your foot to the floor. If that still doesnt work you need to take the main feed off direct from the fuel pump and see if you can get it to pump fuel, if not you'll need a new pump. It's not all the uncommon for them to fail but still make noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy andy. Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 have you read this, posted in the "water in fuel" topic "a tip for bleeding any diesel turn on ignition remove diesel filler cap from tank and blow compressed air into the tank slowly building up pressure using a rag as a seal round the cap if possible get somone to turn it over while u do this it has never failed me even on machines with primer pump. " Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonTemplar Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 I'm guessing that this is not it, as you would have mentioned, but we had a new cylinder head on ours last winter, and developed this exact problem straight afterwards if the car was left for more than a couple of hours. Turned out to be the cheap rubber bungs that were supplied with the reconditioned head. We swapped them out for an original set from Land Rover, which looked identical but must have been a different compound, and it solved the problem immediately. ST Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoss1720 Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 I will be taking the tank off this weekend to get access to the pump.I think that is where the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I will be taking the tank off this weekend to get access to the pump.I think that is where the problem is. I have known several TD5s that will start and run with the fuel pump disconnected (and in fact none to prove differently), so don't take the tank out before you have explored all other options! Try removing the fuel filter, filling it with diesel and puttin it back before starting again. Also check the inertia switch wasn't triggered. If nothing works, disconnect the fuel feed line to the FPR on the engine, let the pump run and see if you get a good flow of diesel. Greetz, Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I'm guessing that this is not it, as you would have mentioned, but we had a new cylinder head on ours last winter, and developed this exact problem straight afterwards if the car was left for more than a couple of hours. Turned out to be the cheap rubber bungs that were supplied with the reconditioned head. We swapped them out for an original set from Land Rover, which looked identical but must have been a different compound, and it solved the problem immediately. ST I'm guessing that this is not it, as you would have mentioned, but we had a new cylinder head on ours last winter, and developed this exact problem straight afterwards if the car was left for more than a couple of hours. Turned out to be the cheap rubber bungs that were supplied with the reconditioned head. We swapped them out for an original set from Land Rover, which looked identical but must have been a different compound, and it solved the problem immediately. ST Which rubber bungs are these? I'm having issues with mine after replacing the head. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonTemplar Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Which rubber bungs are these? I'm having issues with mine after replacing the head. Steve Well, I should caveat this up front by saying that I am a novice at LR mechanics, so this will be a pretty layman response, I am afraid, but the issue was identified by someone who knows what they are doing, so even if my explanation is poor the underlying information solved my issue. The cylinder head on ours (2003 TD5 110) cracked last winter during the very sharp frost. As we had only owned it for six weeks it was under warranty, so the roadside recovery guys trailered it back to the chap I bought it from. Not sure whether I am allowed to namedrop on here, but an excellent private outfit in Staffordshire that sell and service all sorts of Land Rovers with a good, big workshop, they've been around for 50 years. They ordered up a reconditioned cylinder head, swapped onto the car, tested it, all good so I picked it up. Garaged the car over night, and the following morning it turned over for a few seconds before catching. Later in the day it was fine. Next morning, it struggled slightly longer. The third morning, it wouldn't start and I had to jump it, WD40 etc. to get going. I rang the garage, they asked me to bring it back in before it stranded me somewhere. They went through the fuel system, tested it overnight, replaced filters and a few small service items but couldn't find an issue. I picked it up, was fine on the first day, then a little slow by day four or so - better than before, but deteriorating. They asked for it back, I dropped it off, and they could not find anything wrong (although it did start giving them the same problem when they left it outside overnight - it seemed to be related to temperature (we live in a very exposed spot, so inside our garage is about the temperature of most people's outside lol)). They were stumped, but did not want to give it back to me as there was clearly an issue. One of the mechanics on a whim suddenly wondered if any of the components on the cylinder head might not be up to scratch (although it was a supplier they use a lot). So they went over it, and decided that all it could be what they described to me (knowing that I am a novice!) as rubber bungs. They ordered a new set for 'pennies' from Land Rover, swapped them out and it 100% cured the problem. The new ones were visually identical, so we can only assume that the compound of the rubber was different and not giving a perfect seal - they were fine once they warmed up and expanded a little, but from cold they would stop it starting. They now routinely swap them out for new ones from Land Rover. I am afraid that I do not know the technical name for them, but he held them up for me in a plastic bag: from memory (this was over a year ago!!) they were small, about 15-20mm long, cylindrical, max 10mm wide, black rubber. Maybe 4-6 of them? Not sure where they came from (I had a crying baby with me at the time) but they came with the cylinder head and were fitted as part of replacing it. I do hope that that helps - apologies for the poor description. (And apologies for the thread hijack) ST Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy andy. Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 The injector rubber seals are the only thing that I can think of? But does not fit in with description, as there would be five black o rings. But they would make more cranking required before a start. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 That has me confused, I've not seen anything of that description on my head! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 That has me confused, I've not seen anything of that description on my head! You're supposed to be looking at the engine Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonTemplar Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 The injector rubber seals are the only thing that I can think of? But does not fit in with description, as there would be five black o rings. But they would make more cranking required before a start. Andy Most likely those - these things were black, and I figured there were 4-6 of them, and the guy was holding them up in a small plastic bag - the sort you might freeze things in - which was wet with condensation, it was snowing, the kids were impatient, it was 14 months ago, and I didn't really know what I was looking at - so that does sound as if it must be what they replaced to me. In a past life I used to take witness statements as part of my job, and it always worked best when someone just said exactly what they thought they saw, then on reviewing it someone with knowledge and experience often made a leap. If i had tried to analyze that lot I would likely have just confused you all more. So I think it sounds as though it was the injector rubber seals - fixed our problem instantly. ST Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.