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swivel housings


barriesheene

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I was wondering about the shims. I've ordered a set of shims and a new clip but tbh I'm not sure there's going to be enough room for the shims. I take it there should be abit of end float on the shaft ?

End float should be 0.08mm to 0.25mm according to Rave

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Just as a pointer.

As the thrust bearings wear -- they are the bronze rings you replaced on the end of the stub axle and face against the end of the CV joint of the drive shaft -- the end float will increase, when the float gets to be greater than .025 its a sign that its time to fit new thrust bearings, up until then you can happily take up the slack with additional shims.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thought everything was ok but........ Drove around today with the windows down and I've got an occasional clunk coming from that wheel :( . I thought I had felt something but put it down to paranoia. I'm guessing cv joint ????? Does the whole shaft assembly have to be replaced ?

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No, just the CV joints, they are held onto the end of the drive shafts with a "circlips" it's a good idea to replace these circlips at the same time with new ones - dont reuse the old ones, when I replaced mine with hardy Spicers new clips came with teh kit but I dont think this is the norm.

To replace the CV's all you will need is a good bench vice with alloy plates to prevent damage to the shafts and a good soft headed mallet.

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Worn cv joints typically click repeatedly on full lock. If however, the cv joint is broken, then it might well clunk. Be aware that a broken cv joint can jam the steering. Had this happen to myself once and I ended-up on a roundabout in the middle of Newbury :(. Last one I did for a customer caused him to take out his own gatepiost.

Les.

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Did you inspect the CV joint when disassembled? If there was no noticeable play then I would hazard a guess that this is not your problem. As Les says, normally they click under drive and full lock either way.

I would jack it up, and grab the wheel 12 and 6 and 3 and 9 and give it a really good shake. Maybe whip the drive flange off and re-check the wheel bearing, sometimes if you haven't seated the outer race properly, they do it themselves when driving, leading to a loose bearing.

If you don't find anything start looking at bushes, especially the panhard rod and joints on the drag link if the clunk happens when steering at low speed, and the radius arm bushes if it clunks when power-on-power-off makes it happen.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update. Car went in for mot. Failed :( . These bloody wheel hubs are doing my head in. Failed on wheel bearings ???? I've replaced the hub, stub axle, swivel ball, all bearings and seals, discs and cv joint. The only original part is the outer of the swivel housing. I cant get the bearings to tighten enough ???? I thought I had cured it by putting extra washers on before the hub nuts but obviously not. Please help guys. What am I doing wrong ? All the races are in fully and everything is new ? Have I missed something or do I just need to use more spacers ? I refitted everything one piece at a time to check and it all looks ok.

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There isn't a spacer in between the bearings like with a TD5 axle, is there? If so, remove it, and tighten bearings normally.

Is the play on all the bearings or just one?

Are you sure it's actually a loose bearing or is that just what the MOT man thought?

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Thanks guys, sorted :) For some reason I could tighten them up this time even tho when fitted they were as tight as I could get them. Just got to change x2 rear shocks, x2 track rod ends, the windscreen, sort headlight alignement, replace number plate bulb and remove the sat nav for the mot :)

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By way of explanation:

If your MOT inspection is the same as ours in Oz nothing can be installed permanently above the dash board level that is in the drivers line of sight. If you have a sat nav device it must be on a removable bracket.

Total carp as the authorities would rather you be constantly looking down than straight ahead, if there are no accidents they are an unnessersary evil, but I'm an old cynic

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It was a removable sat nav stand. The windscreen suction type. Deemed to be in my line of vision. Only made a mention to warn others if an mot is pending. As regards to maps, having spent years in the Royal Aretillery and now Scout Troops I'm not adverse to getting down and dirty with maps/compasses and bearings. I am however a gadget geek and like to put as much strain on my alternator as possible. Also Susie,( sat nav ), has a hot voice and I like to spend time with her on long lonely journeys :wub::P .

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Should probably also mention that it failed on the power steering pump and steering box leaking. A heads up for people cos I've never owned a landrover that didnt leak. I'm gonna change the pump pipe to box and change bottom seals in situ and hope it'll get back through the mot.

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It was a removable sat nav stand. The windscreen suction type. Deemed to be in my line of vision. Only made a mention to warn others if an mot is pending. As regards to maps, having spent years in the Royal Aretillery and now Scout Troops I'm not adverse to getting down and dirty with maps/compasses and bearings. I am however a gadget geek and like to put as much strain on my alternator as possible. Also Susie,( sat nav ), has a hot voice and I like to spend time with her on long lonely journeys :wub::P .

Glad to hear! All too many people these days just rely on their satnavs and it drives me nuts :@.

And the last bit... we all understand :D:lol:

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