Jump to content
barriesheene

swivel housings

Recommended Posts

Disregard my last comment, the damage to your drive shaft is on the outer spline, not the inner as I originally assumed (making an ass out of u and me) so the damage can only be due to contact of the shaft against the inside of the stub axle, easy rectification -- rid of the spacers.

As to the countersunk torx screws, the easy way to remove them is heat, I had your problem with my front axle fitted with air -lockers and the spare I'm just refurbishing. Remove the housing from the vehicle and clean it, get a blow torch and heat the inside of the housing where the bearing pin is, the heat will break the Loktite bond and the screws will come out fairly easily. I replaced mine with countersunk half round headed socket head high tensile bolts -- i hate torx !!!! :angry2:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As an addendum I'd also be looking at your drive flanges, these are the final plate that the drive shaft passes through and is located with a shim and spring clip, for the drive shaft to come into contact with the inside of the stub axle either the bolts were shockingly loose, the bolt holes were ovalised or the female spline in the drive plate is worn to buggery allowing the drive shaft to slop arround in the stub axle. If none of these apply then you had some serious dirt inside the stub axle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep the pics coming please.... I'll have to do this soon enough !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not put the lower bearing race in? (I can't see in the picture if it is in or not?)

Or wrong bearing in there?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Forgot the seal Doh ! Not as much of a potch as trying to get the right amount of shims in the top pin tho :angry2: . On the plus side I'm getting to know the workings of these swivel housing intimately ^_^

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Setting the shims up is far easier on the second one :). Having said that... when I rebuilt my Railko bush swivels, they both went together correctly first time! :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You remembered the seal retainer, right? ;)

Very easy to get it back to front as well, ask me how I know :blush:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

I would have changed the bolts on the swivel-axle also they are only a couple of quid and will make life a lot easier if you need to undo it again!!

Jason.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alternative tip.

Go to your friendy local wrecker and buy a front axle, gas axe the outer flange off so you can mount it on your work bench and do the assemblies at a comfortable height, -- including doing the swivel bearing setting (1.31 kilograms pull) and then fully assemble the swivel unit before you bolt ot to the axle flange on the car, trust me the cost of the stuffed front axle out of a damaged Disco ($15.00) saved me a hell of a lot of back ache from bending over and crouching. I installed the drive shafts as an assembly before fitting, I only left off the discs to limit the weight I had to manouvre.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Having built up swivels on the bench and on the axle, I would go for the on the axle option, far less time spent lugging big lumps around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice idea Boydie :) I am hoping not to be doing them that often tho !

Coo, just follow this or print it off

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601 BIG BIG thank you to white90 for this post. Tech archive will be my first stop for all queries from now on. Next job is sorting the lack of power. Got a machine gun noise coming from the offside manifold. No signs of leaks tho,( all gaskets changed ) and down on compression on 1 cylinder. Looks like head gasket.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bit of a tip. I didnt have a pull scales so I used the wifes kitchen scales and measured the push instead :)

Now that is a top tip! Well from my point of view anyway ..... the Missus might not be so pleased ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice idea Boydie :) I am hoping not to be doing them that often tho !

Coo, just follow this or print it off

http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=5601 BIG BIG thank you to white90 for this post. Tech archive will be my first stop for all queries from now on. Next job is sorting the lack of power. Got a machine gun noise coming from the offside manifold. No signs of leaks tho,( all gaskets changed ) and down on compression on 1 cylinder. Looks like head gasket.

Cheers....

"Got a machine gun noise coming from the offside manifold" - might be brake vacuum pump, I'm replacing mine for a similar noise, hope it cures it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a note, I set both mine up to 1.31 kilograms pull, (LH) and 1.34 kg's (RH) -- this was the best I could achieve with the packet of shims that I had. Once the swivels were fully assembled -- again on the bench -- with their seals and "one shot" grease and drive shafts and discs this equated to 4.6 kilograms pull (LH) and 4.4 Kilograms pull (RH). I dont know if anyone else has carried out this reading, I did it so that I can compare it in future to check pivot bearing wear - if there is such a thing.

As for installing this "large lump of iron" I'm 64 yo with a suspect back. I found the best and easiest solution was to simply put a length of 4x4 timber spanning the engine bay with the bonnet up, the swivel assembly was then suspended from this with a small block & tackle and they slipped into the differential first time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a note, I set both mine up to 1.31 kilograms pull, (LH) and 1.34 kg's (RH) -- this was the best I could achieve with the packet of shims that I had. Once the swivels were fully assembled -- again on the bench -- with their seals and "one shot" grease and drive shafts and discs this equated to 4.6 kilograms pull (LH) and 4.4 Kilograms pull (RH). I dont know if anyone else has carried out this reading, I did it so that I can compare it in future to check pivot bearing wear - if there is such a thing.

As for installing this "large lump of iron" I'm 64 yo with a suspect back. I found the best and easiest solution was to simply put a length of 4x4 timber spanning the engine bay with the bonnet up, the swivel assembly was then suspended from this with a small block & tackle and they slipped into the differential first time.

I assume you built up the swivel on the bench then? next time try building it on the axle end, much less lifting!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes Ross, I built them up on the bench, and while I admit your method of doing the re-assembly on the end of the axle has its advantages my vehicle "lifter" comprises of four ramps and therefore the max height I can raise the Disco off the ground is around 350mm, then the trick is supporting the front end while the wheels etc. are removed. I can do this but its at the limit of the hydraulic chassis stands under the axle.

Doing them sitting on a bar stool at the bench was far easier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats the about the height I do them :). My 'lifter' is an ex-disco bottle jack and an axle stand under each side of the axle and then sit on the step from the caravan to do the work :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like its all gotta come back off :(. I've tightened the hub nuts up till its hard to turn the hub but theres stiill movement in the bearings. Got an oil drip from the ball to axle seal to :( . Dont know how. All new parts used except the hub ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update. I'd put the hub seal onto the stub axle the wrong way around and it was stopping the hub from fully engaging on the stub axle. Realised my mistake by watching a Phil Sheridan vid on you tube :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good, at least you didn't have to strip the swivel at all :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Off topic but I've found the machine gun noise ! I've had the manifold off 3 times thinking it was a gasket problem. There's a rolled seem just below, ( 1.5" ) the manifold joint. No sign of soot or any of the usual signs and the pipe looks fine. I only found it by using strong soapy water on a cold exhaust and starting it up.

COO I'd check here first. I'd put money on it if I had any :i-m_so_happy: . Sounds good now with her twin exit slashcut stainless exhaust :wub: . I was going to sell cos i need a lwb minibus but its going to be hard now :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good, at least you didn't have to strip the swivel at all :)

Not getting my hopes up yet Bowie. I need to see how bad the leak is from the ball to axle gasket. I'll take it all off as one assembly if I have to. Think I found the problem with the damaged half shaft. The circlip and shims were missing from the end of the shaft. I found the circlip rusted in pieces in the cap. Dont know what happened to the shims ?????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy