V8 Lubricant

[minivin]

Ok, unfortunately "V8" is not a three letter word so I can't do a search on what has been posted before. So my question is what oil is considered best for the following situation:

i) It's a RR 3.5V8

ii) I tend to change my oil's every 2k - 3k miles sine it's an old design

iii) I don't mind spending a reasonable amount on oil

So, what grade and what brand of oil do people think is about right, since I am getting around to filling my engine up soon

[pugwash]

Ok, unfortunately "V8" is not a three letter word so I can't do a search on what has been posted before. So my question is what oil is considered best for the following situation:

i) It's a RR 3.5V8

ii) I tend to change my oil's every 2k - 3k miles sine it's an old design

iii) I don't mind spending a reasonable amount on oil

So, what grade and what brand of oil do people think is about right, since I am getting around to filling my engine up soon

I always use Difflock Silvex (although they have changed the name now) which works out at a good price. I have been very very impressed with- get good oil pressure, seems to quiet the tappets down quickly and it flushed the engine quite well- i put it in a low milegae engine and the first change was black- every other change afterwards (changing ever 4k) has got less and less black. Very highly recommended.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Duckhams "Classic" 20/50 Multigrade

V8s and esp older ones do not like thin oils

Also flush engine using forte engine cleaner, ie add to old oil, drive 20 mins drain oil etc

Nige

[geoffbeaumont]

Can't remember the exact spec I run (will have a look when I get home), but go for one that's a bit more viscous that the quoted oil when cold (often sold as oil for older engines) - you'll find the oil pressure comes up much quicker when you start it. With standard oil you'll have the pleasure off listening to rattling tappets for a bit with a well worn engine

I've used brand name, Halfrauds and Comma oils - all without any problem or noticeable difference, so I'd go for a decent budget oil like Comma and save the money. I change mine every 6k and give it a dose of engine flush with each change to keep it nice and clean. I was doing high motorway mileages when I was using the Rangie regularly, though, so pretty easy on it mechanically.

[Mark90]

Halfords oil is actually very good spec, better than some of the big name brands, check the API spec.

[GBMUD]

Duckhams "Classic" 20/30 Multigrade

V8s and esp older ones do not like thin oils

Should that read 20/50 then?

It was suggested to me that a slightly thinner oil was better for engines with hydraulic tappets - a thicker oil might be better in a V8 as they are not known for having high oil pressures!

Chris

[jules]

I use Mobil 1 (don't know why I just do)

Mine is a later V8 so I go with the Manufacturers recomendations.

I was a little shocked when I first changed the oil an found that was standared grad for the 4.2's

0/40 is the grade for a cross bolted blocks, but if you put it in a older one it will ratle and die very quickly.

Seen it done and heard it then sold the guy a new lump

20/50 Castroll classic 'as already said is not too bad' Halfords own, I have never had any problems with.

[minivin]

interesting that 20W50 seems the way ahead, think Otton's in Salisbury have Castrol, unfortunately not sure where I can get Duckham's around here, maybe Ebay is worth a look

[geoffbeaumont]

interesting that 20W50 seems the way ahead, think Otton's in Salisbury have Castrol, unfortunately not sure where I can get Duckham's around here, maybe Ebay is worth a look

As already said, you don't need to go hunting out brand names - some of the cheaper/own brand oils are just as good.

[jules]

interesting that 20W50 seems the way ahead, think Otton's in Salisbury have Castrol, unfortunately not sure where I can get Duckham's around here, maybe Ebay is worth a look

Ottens always did stock it.

[Mark90]

As already said, you don't need to go hunting out brand names - some of the cheaper/own brand oils are just as good.

Absolutely. Halfords is better spec than Castrol, in fact Castrol GTX is actually quite a low spec oil. Don't know about Duckhams.

But to be honest with a most older design engines (such as teh V8) reasonably decent spec oil of the right viscocity and changed often is the way to go IMHO.

[jules]

They do say if you change the oil in a V8 or V12 every 3-4000 miles it will last for ever and a day

[minivin]

They do say if you change the oil in a V8 or V12 every 3-4000 miles it will last for ever and a day

aiy, why I was thinking about 2k-3k, maybe even 3k miles straight now, always done 2k miles on my 1950's and 60's classic motorbikes as they seem to like that best

[minivin]

Absolutely. Halfords is better spec than Castrol, in fact Castrol GTX is actually quite a low spec oil. Don't know about Duckhams.

But to be honest with a most older design engines (such as teh V8) reasonably decent spec oil of the right viscocity and changed often is the way to go IMHO.

That's a new one on me that Halfrauds is better, only a trip into town so may go have a looksie

[Mark90]

For the quality of the oil Check out the API spec. For petrol cars it will be Sx, the higher letter x is the better. IIRC Castrol GTX is SE/SF and Halfords is SJ.

Obviously Halfords don't make their own oil so it will be one of the big oil company's stuff with Halfords branding.

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm,

I’ve been through this in quite an amount of detail, during and following the rebuild of the 3.5 in early 2003. The rebuild consisted of, re-bore, 9.75 flat top pistons, crank regrind, new cam bearings and line bore, block decked, heads skimmed & flowed, stump puller cam, new lifters, push rods, rockers, rocker shafts……… cloyes timing gear, rebuild of the oil pump etc, etc.

A fully synthetic such as Mobil 1 should not be used ………… the engine build tolerances /general design were not designed for that type of oil.

After several hours of calls and discussion with various oil companies who have products that are readily available in the UK …………. I settled on using Castrol Magnatec 15-40 which is a modern semi synthetic ………… not cheap, but also not expensive.

The guy I spoke with at the Castrol technical / applications dept was a bit like Rick (who no doubt will have some input here) ………….. much of it was chemical stuff that went straight over my head. However, the guy took the trouble to research the Castrol archive for the Rover engine and came up with a few comments ……. that mainly referred to controlling the oil temperature (which I do) and the design oil pressure of the engine. My oil temperature is controlled by a Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate which feeds off to a Mocal cooler in front of the Rad.

He steered me away from their expensive oils and also warned about using cheapish 20/50 mineral oils (which included Castrol and their subsidiaries).

I change the oil and filter religiously every 3K. At 40K I had to remove the right hand head due to a coolant leak and this gave me a good opportunity to inspect………… the cam was in fine shape with no apparent wear ……… I popped a couple of lifters (7 & 8) and again there was no wear that would concern me. Also the hone marks were still very clearly visible in the bores. The top end was in tip top condition …………….. and this is the area of the V8 that is most prone to wear.

Additionally the oil pressure has stayed much the same from the day I built it ………. 20psi on tickover and 32 psi @2400 rpm when hot.

Also I spent some time talking to the filter manufacturers tech desks ………. Don’t be too worried what filter you use (OEM or aftermarket) ………….. quite a lot come out of the same factory ! …………… I tend to use coopers or Unipart ………… I steer clear of Fram due to the bad press that they had in the early days, when the internal filter non return valve leaked causing a degradation in oil pressure ……… but I am sure that their filters are fine these days. BTW: The filter is common with the 300tdi

Ian

[minivin]

on the filters I tend to just buy genuine, funnily enough I ordered one for a 2.5NAD and it's the same as the V8 one as well!

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Chris is right, me typing seems overly dreadfull at the mo - kin laptop keyboards hate them

20/50 Duckhams classic

Nige

[pugwash]

really couldn't recommend the difflock stuff more- it has been specially formulated by a "major" so it's the proper stuff. a lot of guys on the difflock forum swear by it. It's also quite good value at £10 for 5l

here's the link:

Difflocks 15w50

Simon and Paul are really nice guys and deserve our support (in the same as Simon R and others do). Don't buy oil from Halfrauds.

i know i might sound like i am going over the top, but all the times i have dealt with Difflock i have had nothing but good service- on two notable occasions i have had service way above and beyond what one could reasonably expect- ie they dropped the oil off to me on a bank holiday because i was desperate!

they also do a very very funky drainplug which makes oil changes infinitely easier- i have one of these on my V8 too and saves a heck of a lot of hassle when doing frequent oil changes:

Drain plug thingy

as to filters- for the extra £1-£2 i always use Genuine filters.Having cut a couple open i came to realise that they can be significant differences internally- i have no idea if it makes any difference but better safe than sorry i reckon

[jules]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm,

I’ve been through this in quite an amount of detail, during and following the rebuild of the 3.5 in early 2003. The rebuild consisted of, re-bore, 9.75 flat top pistons, crank regrind, new cam bearings and line bore, block decked, heads skimmed & flowed, stump puller cam, new lifters, push rods, rockers, rocker shafts……… cloyes timing gear, rebuild of the oil pump etc, etc.

A fully synthetic such as Mobil 1 should not be used ………… the engine build tolerances /general design were not designed for that type of oil.

After several hours of calls and discussion with various oil companies who have products that are readily available in the UK …………. I settled on using Castrol Magnatec 15-40 which is a modern semi synthetic ………… not cheap, but also not expensive.

The guy I spoke with at the Castrol technical / applications dept was a bit like Rick (who no doubt will have some input here) ………….. much of it was chemical stuff that went straight over my head. However, the guy took the trouble to research the Castrol archive for the Rover engine and came up with a few comments ……. that mainly referred to controlling the oil temperature (which I do) and the design oil pressure of the engine. My oil temperature is controlled by a Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate which feeds off to a Mocal cooler in front of the Rad.

He steered me away from their expensive oils and also warned about using cheapish 20/50 mineral oils (which included Castrol and their subsidiaries).

I change the oil and filter religiously every 3K. At 40K I had to remove the right hand head due to a coolant leak and this gave me a good opportunity to inspect………… the cam was in fine shape with no apparent wear ……… I popped a couple of lifters (7 & 8) and again there was no wear that would concern me. Also the hone marks were still very clearly visible in the bores. The top end was in tip top condition …………….. and this is the area of the V8 that is most prone to wear.

Additionally the oil pressure has stayed much the same from the day I built it ………. 20psi on tickover and 32 psi @2400 rpm when hot.

Also I spent some time talking to the filter manufacturers tech desks ………. Don’t be too worried what filter you use (OEM or aftermarket) ………….. quite a lot come out of the same factory ! …………… I tend to use coopers or Unipart ………… I steer clear of Fram due to the bad press that they had in the early days, when the internal filter non return valve leaked causing a degradation in oil pressure ……… but I am sure that their filters are fine these days. BTW: The filter is common with the 300tdi

Ian

Filters I have had problems with on older V8's years ago so I will only use Gen part one for the very reasons you talk about..

I will stick with what I have run in the way of oil as it works for me and it is what the hand book tells me

we have all destroyed V8's in our time.. I can just add it to the list

You will find all 94 on TVR's V8's also run 0/40..

[02GF74]

just to add my 2 pence. all the above I've seen before as this question pops up on a regular basis.

yes, v8 is 50s techology and folks run it using el cheapo halfords or even cheaper wilko oil with no adverse effects - the main proviso being to change it at more frequent interval - 3 K or similar

Others say no no to synthetic oils, mobil 1 and such but on the other hand others say synthetics will not harm any engine.

so take your pick which camp you wish to join.

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

Oh hell ………… here we go again,

The more common off the shelf Mobile 1 ESP (5/30) is two thin to maintain the design oil pressure ……….and this is due to the design tolerances of the bearings / oil ways and the volume of the pump ……………also the engine will trend to burn more of the oil…….. again pistons / rings/ bores design, play an important role.

So, whilst the oil does not harm your engine ……. the lack of design oil pressure MAY or MAY NOT cause premature wear.

Same applies to Castrol Edge 0/30 or 0/40

Where’s Rick the Oz when you need him …………. I’m sure that he will explain it in terms that none of us fully understand

Ian

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Eales advice to me was that for any non "Modern" V8 (ie TVR etc) 20/50 or good quality oil, but (as BBC says) do not use thin stuff.

Longevity is then a matter of filter and oil changes regualrly...use a genuine filter, do you really wnat to risk your engine for a couple of ££ with some pattern tat ?..yes I know some pattern stuff is good, but I just pay up the few quid for a genuine one job done...

As the oil is cheap (compared with watery synthetiucs) it offsets the frequency changed...

Nige

[02GF74]

.... this can go round in circles

this topic came up on another forum and there was a reference to a web site explaining why synthetic wins hands down, as you may expect since I think it was by one of the manufacturers.

again I'll stick by my claim (from what has been said on similar forums) that synthetics will not harm an engine;- I think what should be said is the engine must be in good condition not one that is has gone round the clock a few times and is running on treacle mixed with pulverised baby octupuses to maintain a decent pressure.

My friend runs a tuned crossflow, probably similar era to rv8 after a rebuild exclusively on M1 and when he came to look at the internals some time later - sorry but don't have the mileage - the engine was like new. That is the closest to my own experience I've gotten and I did throw in some of that to a 70 K volvo 850 - can't say it was any better or worse for it. In the lwt I am using el-cheapo 20/50 since I don't know its history but would guess that the bottom end has seen a few miles; the oil pressure does drop when warm and if someones wishes to give me a gallon of M1, I can try that out on the next oil change )

If you slap M1 into a worn engine, then sure, you can expect low oil pressure as BBC said; but out of curiousity what are the bearing clearences on say RV8 compared to a modern engine, say zetec or duratec? (I will take a peak at haynes to see tonight).

Like I said at the very beginning, evereyone seems to have their own opinion .....

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

.... this can go round in circles

No, thats the thread on tyres

Nige