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Yes, another R380 in an 88 thread


TheRecklessEngineer
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I'm getting rolling on replacing the V8 and series gearbox in my 88" with an R380 and 300 TDi.

I've got the old engine and gearbox out, and I've been wandering around with a tape measure: It seems they won't fit (easily).

These are the options:

  • Move the engine and box back far enough to fit everything in. The problem here is the transfer box lever ends up more or less in the middle seat and the gear change will be by the driver's elbow (not comfortable)
  • Get the gearlevers in the right place, with the engine forward, but use a defender front end to create room for the radiator. This also solves the issue of where to put the intercooler - currently not enough room to put it side by side with the rad.
  • Get a stumpy bellhousing, correct placement of gearlevers, series front end remains. (£300 ish for the conversion I think)
  • Use a charge air cooler and put the radiator in the back.

I see the best option for least faf and best value as fitting a defender front end, but I'm not keen on doing this as I want it to look like a series!

Any other options I haven't though of?

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Well, I've had another careful measure up (even marked it out and everything!)

Without the stumpy bellhousing, the whole caboodle is too long to fit - assuming you keep the gearlevers in the right place. I worked it out as 50mm clearance between the nose of the water pump (most sticky-outy bit) and the back of the slam panel - no where near enough room for a radiator.

Now there are some creative engineering solutions I've come up with (including charge air coolers, pwm controlled forced cooling in a remote radiator, gearchange solenoids etc etc) however, the whole reason for fitting an R380 and 300TDi is that it is easy. If I'd wanted a challenge, I'd have chosen something like a BMW M51 or some funky Nissan engine.

So, with that in mind (and especially as I've already got a defender bonnet kicking around) I'm going to put a stage 1 grill/slam panel on the front, but keep the series wings. Anyone in the know will easily spot there's something 'interesting' going on, and anyone who doesn't spot that wouldn't appreciate the effort required to keep the series front anyway!

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I manged to squeeze a 200Tdi and LT230 in to my 88 and keep the centre lights. How hard can it be?

How a bout a rad behind engine in front of bulkhead like a Whitbread?

Stumpy bellhousing and Rakeway reduced output are options if you want to go spendy.

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I manged to squeeze a 200Tdi and LT230 in to my 88 and keep the centre lights. How hard can it be?

How a bout a rad behind engine in front of bulkhead like a Whitbread?

Stumpy bellhousing and Rakeway reduced output are options if you want to go spendy.

presumably that was with the LT77 though? which is shorter than an R380.

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I figure pictures are better than diagrams.

Using the gearsticks as the datum point, this is how it all sits in the chassis.

Despite the front end problem, it's actually a very comfortable fit. There's a small clearance issue between the timing case and the PAS box - mostly because the box has to sit higher to clear the spring. Otherwise, pretty much everything lines up - even the stock PAS pipes fit.

post-1194-0-84711400-1328038663_thumb.jpg

post-1194-0-37715100-1328038673_thumb.jpg

post-1194-0-30403200-1328038681_thumb.jpg

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I turned my gear stick 180° in the splined fitting and rewelded it so it sat further back. I then had to put a bend in the difflock lever back over to clear. If you didn't know you would never spot it. It clears my Raptor Dash comfortably now.

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I don't know what you're worried about, looks like plenty of room for a rad there! :D

I'd be tempted to shuffle it back a couple of inches just to give a bit more breathing room, no harm having the gearstick a bit closer to you and sticks can be cut/bent to suit quite easily.

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