NegevLandRover Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 The bolts on the rear axle flange keep comming loose - possibly something to do with the Detroit locker I have ? Any other ideas as to why this might happen, repeatedly, will be most welcome. Locktite does not solve the problem and new ones (proper LR flange bolts with the blue factory loctitework) work loose in a couple of months to. Also can someone please tell me the torque to which the new ones should be fitted ? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Try Nordlock washers, much better than Loctite which has been proven to prevent the torue being properly applied to the fastener because the friction of the make-up starts changes it's frictional properties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calle-fas Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 From memory 65Nm. They are M10x45 10.9. It would be good if an adult or someone with Rave at hand could confirm that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Check the wheel bearing usually when a wheel bearing is on its way out worn etc the driveflange will work loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 What sort of roads are you driving. Can I guess it's not all tar. Certainly corrugations wont help. Are you using the paper flange gasket ? As for torque. I've never torqued mine up. I just tighten with a 3/ 8" drive Snap-On ratchet. Not had a problem YET !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 drive flange to hub bolt torque is 65Nm most pre 300Tdi vehicles have spring washers under the bolt head too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Replace all the bolts with studs then use a decent thick washer and a toplock nut. Just make sure you use correctly sized studs so that you are driving on the "plain" or "shank" Most of the other 4x4 manufacturers solve this problem by doweling the flanges on, so that the bolts are only a retaining device not taking all the driving loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 The bolts shouldn't be taking the loads anyway surely? The point is that the friction in the tightly clamped joint does that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 To add. I use thread seal on my bolts there. DO you tap the hub threads out each time. Making sure that there's nothing in the bottom of the hole pushing the bolt and giving a wrong torque setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegevLandRover Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 Some answers to above posts: Corugations in the dirt roads are common in this area and the day that they worked loose was a rough day with alot of technical bits and lots of fairly fast dry rocky dirt trails. I do us a thread die (I think that is the term ?) on a drill to clean the threads and then a healthy load of break cleaner and compressed air. I did try using washers that have rough/serrated surfaces either side but they did not help. Tried using loads or torque but no use - this time I used the 65 Nm setting, fingers crossed. Used to have the spring washers but those went long ago. Does anyone else here have a Detroit on the rear axle and if so do they also have the same problem ? I am running another 300 TDI + a Disco 1 with no after market locks and they have no issues with the flange bolts. All three are wearing disco rims so even when the bolts come out I don't loose drive - one of the big advantages of the disco rims. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Adam Another thought following on from Jai. How knobbly are your tyres ?? That might be another bit to trow into the ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 If you have reguarly been using a tap (thread die) on a drill then i suspect your threads will be clean but quite worn by now with clearences between the bolt and threaded hole. You dont need a drill to clean threads. Thread lock is only effective on close fitting screw to thread clearences, it doesnt set much in open voids/air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 A tap is for cutting new threads. For cleaning old threads you really want a thread chaser. Or get a bolt the correct size, and put a cut in it axially with a thin grinding disc. This makes a poor-man's thread chaser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B reg 90 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Is your axle casing bent? This will put a cyclic loading on the bolts every revolution of the wheel. After market 1/2 shafts have tighter spline clearances that make this more of a problem in my view. I'd put a truing bar thruogh the axle casing and see how out of alignment it is. Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Are the bolts the correct length? Reason i ask is that i think the older hubs had longer bolts - i sheared one of the bolts on my 1989 110 front drive flange when checking the wheel bearings. All of the replacements i found were about 1/2, an inch shorter than the original bolts. That might make a difference as i guess the longer bolts will be harder to shake loose. Mine also all have spring washers (as well as threadlock by the looks of them when i removed them). I think there was a difference in hub/flange thickness that may account for the different length bolts and i suspect you have the later thinner flanges, but i just thought i;d mention it in case anyone thought this might be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.