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110 to 90 chassis conversion...


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Got to say my first advice would be like others have said if you want a 90 sell the 110 and buy one. If it is offroad only and vehicle id is not a problem then buy a second hand 90 chassis and rebuilding all the parts onto it will be much easier. Even an old chassis once it is bare can be patched up easier than the work involved in shortening a 110 chassis.

If you are determined to do it this way then cut inbetween the suspension mounts so you end up with two chassis sections with axles attached that way all the suspension mounts etc stay correct, measure very carefully before welding up to keep things square and after welding it plate over the welded area, if done well it should be stronger than origional. The back end of the chassis you will probable have to be fabricated to fit not sure if you could get away with buying a 90 crossmemeber and extentions or not. This was the way we used to cut range rover chassis down to fit under series motors for trials etc(pre SVA or IVA days then and 90's didn't exist!). If you don't get it right it won't drive well and will look like an abortion.

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If you are going to shorten it, i'd do it the way my friend shortened his rangy chassis for his 88. He cut it between suspension mounts (radius and trailing arms), and then welded 3mm thick plates inside the chassis, using plug welding (through a hole in the original chassis rails) and welded the inside corners of the new box. He also ran the grinder down the old corners of the chassis rail, and welded through there onto the new box section and dressed the weld back so it look original. He then slotted the rear section over the new box, butt welded old and new together, making sure it fused to the new inside box too, and plug welded aswell. He then dressed the butt weld flush, and then over plated all 4 sides with more 3mm steel plate. The chassis is 8 or 9mm thick at that point, on all four sides, extremly strong!

But my first advice would be to get a 90 chassis anyway.

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