jason110 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Vehicle; A 1966 2A with standard 10'' drums all round. No servo. Symptoms; We can't get a nice firm brake peddle. the pedal goes to floor and there is little braking effort exhibited from the system. although the when the brake peddle is pumped the system does build up pressure Background; The hub seals were leaking on the nearside front, so we took the decision to replace the hub seals on both sides on the front axle. we also took the decision to renew the cylinders and shoes on the front since one of the cylinders was leaking. Hubs went back on with new seals and the brakes were assembled up, pre-load and all that set. We began to start bleeding the system and the master cylinder chucks in the towel, so that was replaced. We then try again, feeling lucky, but the one of the rear cylinders starts to leak! so cylinders and shoes on both sides were changed! so too summarise, we have 4 new cylinders, 8 new shoes and one new master cylinder! all we wanted to do was rectify the hub seal leaking!! The brakes have been assembled correctly with the leading shoe having the pin on the adjuster and the big red spring attached to that and the pin on the back plate. We have checked all four cylinders for operation, by pressing the peddle lightly and using a screw driver alternately to stop the cylinder coming out to far. We have been bleeding the system as described in the Haynes manual, it describes the pattern to follow. while bleeding the pedal was pumped 4-5 times and then the bleed nipple was released. this was repeated 3 times on each wheel. Are there any tips for doing this?! We have adjusted the brakes so that they lock and then de-adjusted two notches back, there is a medium resistance to the wheel turning. We have clamped the rear most rubber hose for the back axle and the brake peddle went quite firm. We think the problem may lie in the rear cylinders. i have heard of using a G-Clamp over the cylinders and bleeding this way, thus eliminating the chance of air being trapped in the cylinders. Does this work?! So to summarise! i was hoping a clever fellow on here would point to anything we should check or any tips that may help?! We are rather stumped and at that point where we need some help and an additional brain or two to inject some fresh thinking! Thanks in advance folks. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Have you got a pressure bleeder (eezi-bleed)? These are generally the best for getting air out of the system. You could clamp the cylinders in the compressed position and try to bleed it again. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Land Rover set out the problem in the workshop manual. The problem with the CB cylinder (one with the nut on the end) is that the outlet isn't at the end of the bore. This is no problem normally but Land Rover installed the thing with the nut end higher than the outlet - forming a perfect air trap. Their procedure is to raise the front of the vehicle high enough so the sylinder lies flat - then bleed. I suppose if you're using an esibleed - and can get the thing to seal you could unbolt the pedal box from the bulkhead and tip it so the cylinder is level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 The problem could well be that you now have all new shoes in worn drums, the shoes will be flexing as the linings dont match the drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Last time I did the 88", I clamped the rear cylinders in and cured my age old braking problems with her. At the moment, I'm having trouble with The 109's brakes, which hasn't been cured by this trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Thanks for the reply guys. We haven't had chance to check anything out yet. I was told Friday I'm off to join a ship on Tuesday, in the Philippines! I'll ensure my father reports back in due course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks for all your suggestions , I will be out with the scanners this weekend Dad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSF Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 This is faith healing and I cannot think of a reason why it works, but just occasionally........ Try using an eezybleed and also pump the pedal while you are doing it. I've never had to do it on a Series 3, but it has worked on an 80 inch S1 and a Supacat. Both had somewhat challenged design in the original systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 I've also been told to jam the pedal down hard overnight with a stick, the air supposedly mixes with the brake fluid under pressure, and then will bleed out normally. I've never tried it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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