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Gearbox, transfer box, axle/diff oils


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Hi

Could somebody please help me, what would you recommend as the best oils/fluids etc to use in my 1993 Defender 90? I want to drain the oils out of the gearbox, transfer box and both axles/diffs and replace with nice brand new stuff - as I have no idea when it was last done. Details are below:

Gearbox = standard LT77

Transfer box = standard LT230

Front axle/diff = standard 200TDi

Rear axle/diff = fitted from a 300TDi (so disc brakes at the back, if that makes a difference)

Also how much oil will I need, how much does each part take to fill up to the correct point? Sorry I'm asking for quite a lot of info here, so I very much appreciate everyones help.

Thank you

Chris

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Your question is complicated by changing lubricant specifications. The lubricant manufacturers fiddle with their products on a regular basis, doubtless for a variety reasons (commercial as well as technical), and consequently the LR spec'ed lubricants aren't necessarily what LR spec'ed when they drafted the owner's manual or sent out a technical bulletin to revise those specs.

For example, EP90 is typically graded with reference to the American Petroluem Institute's grades. The standard current API rating for gear lube intended for hypoid gears (such as the crown wheel and pinion gear) is API GL5; however GL5 has high-pressure additivies that may corrode soft 'yellow' metals such as brass or copper. As the diffs (including the centre diff) have phosphor bronze washers behind the planetary gears, there may be a risk of corrosion should you buy GL5-rated EP90.

I have seen reference in a white paper published by Amsoil (IIRC) that gear oils that ALSO meet the MT-1 rating are more likely to be compatible with 'yellow' metals (the quote here is from the introductory section of that paper):

"API MT- 1 is independent of API GL-5. API MT-1 calls for a higher level of oxidation stability, copper corrosion resistance and seal compatibility, which is not provided by API GL-4 or GL-5. Not all gear lubes meet API MT-1 performance standards."

So choosing the correct lubricants can present some challenges.

Cheers.

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My centre diff thrust washers are yellow metal (ie copper/brass) I have just had to renew mine as they were wafer thin and the new ones were also yellow metal and not hardened steel. The first set lasted just under 200k so slightly more than a few revolutions! I would have thought hardened steel thrust washers were have worn the gears and diff housing.

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Ok I think there are copper ones in the centre diff. But you'll not find these in a axle diff. They don't work. Phosphor bronze would dissapear rapidly. Copper cracks and breaks up when used in this application.

you dont know much about phosphor bronze then...

Its one of the best bearing materials there is.

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Hi im just doing this to mine as far as i know you want

MTF 94 for your lt77 not sure how many litres but its 2.7 for the r380

EP80/90 for the LT230 and axels 2.3 litres and axels 1.7 each

Thats what i have read dont quote me if not 100% accurate hope it helps

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Thank you everybody for your responses - special thanks to Sam90 for all the quantities I will need, much appreciated.

Ok my weekend job now is sorted. My rear hub seals are weeping slightly aswell - is there anything I need to know when replacing them/other things to look at whilst I'm under there people can think of?

Thanks

Chris

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If it's leaking, and you're going to relace them IMO you may as well do the lot.. i.e. bearings as well. As you have to take all of it apart anyway. But that might be just me. Regardless, buy genuine seals unless you wanna waste your time..

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Hi im just doing this to mine as far as i know you want

MTF 94 for your lt77 not sure how many litres but its 2.7 for the r380

EP80/90 for the LT230 and axels 2.3 litres and axels 1.7 each

Thats what i have read dont quote me if not 100% accurate hope it helps

Got the same oils for my project. They're all sat on the shelf ready. Looked around at ATF vs MTF and people have said that MTF seems better. Hope so cos the stuff is far more expensive than the ATF!

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I did run MTF94 in my LT77 once upon a time. I didnt notice any difference to ATF. I've recently tried the difflock evo1 stuff and i have to confess, i'm struggling to justify the cost as i cant notice a great difference to the ATF again! My reccomendation would probably be to use ATF in the LT77 and change it more often than recommended.

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