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DrRob

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Rob yes that will do but it is so expensive. Where are you in Hampshire? If you are near Portsmouth or Havant give me a pm and you can come and pick up some PU sealer that is as good but only £2.50 a tube! We use boxes of the stuff building horseboxes.

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I've never used Sikaflex - but it's one of the things that comes up on here quite often. What are the properties / uses of it that make it great? It seems like the sort of thing I ought to know - but have missed out on!

Si

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I've never used Sikaflex - but it's one of the things that comes up on here quite often. What are the properties / uses of it that make it great? It seems like the sort of thing I ought to know - but have missed out on!

Si

Sikaflex is one of a number of products manufactured by Sika http://www.sika.com/. The most usefull of their products in general for LR is the PU adhesive sealer Sikaflex 212 FC http://gbr.sika.com/en/solutions_products/01/01a005/01a005sa03/01a005sa03100/01a005sa03102.html. They do various different adhesive sealers for different aplications and materials. The biggest downfall of Sika products is the price about £ 9.00 a tube.

There are lots of other manufacturers offering similar products some as good ,others deffinately not.

In the building of the horse boxes we have moved from 'Sika' to 'Soudal' http://www.soudal.com/soudalweb/news.aspx?w=8&p=476 purely on price, Soudal 940FC http://www.soudal.com/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=8&p=492&ID=2955 is about £ 2.50 a tube and has the same characteristics and strength.

These PU Sealer/adhesives will bond and seal aluminium to aluminium, wood steel, plastic , firbreglass etc etc. We have found especially on 'shinny' surfaces if you can 'key' the surfaces and clean well ,then the bond is far stronger.

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Have to say, I only use it on the recommendations of a friend. He uses it for deck fittings on his sea-going boat, and used it to seal the gutter on his 88's roof, which was still watertight when he sold it 4 years later.

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Is this the same as Tiger seal (I am guessing it is). I have just used TS to bond in a new floor into the 110 rear tub and between the floor and steel cross-ribs to stop the bi-metallic corrosion which had decimated the old floor (which admittedly is almost 30 years old). It is excellent stuff and first impresions are positive. Plenty more uses for it planned on the rebuild.....

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Its up there with gaffa tape and cable ties IMHO, aswell as bonding panels you can stick everything to everything. I used it to put a new windscreen in my old fiesta, put the perspex side windows in my disco ute, stick defender spat angle body thingys to the disco wings, make gauge pods, stuck flasher unit for my strobes in place etc etc.

It takes some time to come off your hands/ fingers. ( as in days and weeks!)

Will.

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I was watching a tv show on one of the cable channels a little while back that was showing how ambulances were made (american ones)

To make the back body, they just made a big ally frame, then put Sika or similar on with mastic guns the length of the frame, then just pressed the aluminium sheet on to box it in. No rivets, screws nuts or bolts.

Then they cabled it up inside, fitted the trim, stretchers and kit, lifted it onto the chassis with a fork lift and bolted it down.

I was a bit surprised at the time, but after thinking about it, a pop riveted body does seem like a fairly poor engineering solution in comparison to a really good strong adhesive bond over the entire area of the joint.

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Is this the sort of thing you can use to bond panels together?

I'm gonna need to replace the rear wings on my 110 and one side on the 90, could I use Sikaflex to bond the aluminium panels together rather than drill a load of new rivets in?

Definitely, just make sure you clean both surfaces really well and key with about 120 grit paper, then clean again with the Sika or Soudal panel cleaner.......you will never part the panels again!!!!

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I was watching a tv show on one of the cable channels a little while back that was showing how ambulances were made (american ones)

To make the back body, they just made a big ally frame, then put Sika or similar on with mastic guns the length of the frame, then just pressed the aluminium sheet on to box it in. No rivets, screws nuts or bolts.

Then they cabled it up inside, fitted the trim, stretchers and kit, lifted it onto the chassis with a fork lift and bolted it down.

I was a bit surprised at the time, but after thinking about it, a pop riveted body does seem like a fairly poor engineering solution in comparison to a really good strong adhesive bond over the entire area of the joint.

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Its up there with gaffa tape and cable ties IMHO, aswell as bonding panels you can stick everything to everything.

That's what I wanted to know! Cable ties & Gaffa tape are amongst my favorite Engineering solutions - I'll get a tube and see what I can 'engineer'!

Si

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It's like most PU adhesives ... wear gloves .... or sacrifice a layer of skin to remove it .....

On the use by date front I recently used some (different brand) that was a year out of date to reattach some of a door skin where it had seperated from the frame after someone decided to see the new year in by throwing a shopping trolley into my passenger door (digressing somewhat there). Anyway it seemed to stick very well, this one was in a aluminium tube that fitted a normal caulking gun and the back of the tube was capped with an aluminium cover with desicant inside. My point is that even out of date the adhesion is pretty impressive :)

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I'd love to see a tow ball or similar attached with it and see just how much force it took to remove.

Rather than a tow ball you'd be better off with a Nato hitch or similar so the pressure was even across the surface, and a straight pull ..... although I wouldn't want to be behind it when it pulled off :)

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