Jump to content

Landrover Hydraulic Steering With High Steer Arms


zim

Recommended Posts

I've asked about high steer arms before, but didn't find anybody that had really done it to a LR hub.

So we've decided to give it a go.

What a pain in the bu++ !!!!!! Below is a picture showing what we're doing, but the hubs are a right pain to weld to. The person welding them up is a fully qualified tig welder and does it for a job, so i have no doubt that he is doing everything correct.

I guess it'll either work Or not :lol:

536599_10150755742929882_667984881_11246555_1870509569_n.jpg

380766_10150755742979882_667984881_11246556_1705483534_n.jpg

541335_10150755737119882_667984881_11246539_1980423363_n.jpg

557092_10150755737194882_667984881_11246540_1890295464_n.jpg

An idea for home made DIY clevis', not yet finished :

551725_10150755736989882_667984881_11246536_737396005_n.jpg

I fly out to work tomorrow so shall have to continue when i'm back.

Thoughts / Ideas

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Higher links, less initial angle on the joints so more possible travel, ...

In this case not really relevant, as it's full hydro if I understand correctly, so its main use will be to keep the hydro cylinder out of harm's way instead of using it as a diff cover.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Carried on with this today. Been busy with other stuff.

Made the diff cover pan, 6mm :

Complete with CAD (Nige style and can be seen on the bench!)

532212_10151104795974882_982390383_n.jpg

Then ran out of welding gas :( So will finish it off tomorrow

599323_10151104796109882_1118414106_n.jpg

More tomorrow.

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

To add to the "What is High Steer" question, this not only raises the height of the steering components, it adds strenght and resistance to arm twist when adding stronger steering force i.e. hydro. Single sheer to dual/double sheer I guess is the term? On some vehicles it can be needed to convert from a weeker system to cross over steering i.e. Jeep have the steering rod connected directly to the drag link whereas LR has seperate connections to the hubs for each rod.

Marc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's from a JCB. Got 8" of travel.

Hubs pretty much fully welded up, just one more plate to make over the top.

376614_10151202985059882_69754321_n.jpg

Decided to mount the orbital valve in the same place as the normal steering box. Makes plumbing easy and saves me changing the steering column / modifying where the brake servo is etc.

558358_10151203702299882_937996916_n.jpg

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

zim,

when can i send you my swivels for converting :ph34r::i-m_so_happy:

Haha...not a chance ! Too much work & hassle in welding !

We added some more plate on top today to try and make them stronger. Not 100% convinced with the welding.

Pump - not yet 100% sure. Currently running a zf74, but Boothy hasn't had much luck with these so will see what other options there are.

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, serious question now, in most if not all hydro-steer setups you see the ram on the front of the axle case as you have above, clearly this means you need to protect it more, but having said that, it is still more open to the elements, such as rocks, dirt etc.

Given that the LR hubs as standard have their arms pointing backwards, would it be possible/is there room to stick the ram on the back of the axle, giving you less of a protrusion on the front?

I'm sure in some engine/gearbox combos it would be very close/smashing into the sump, but others not so the case I would assume, especially if a dry sump is fitted as is getting more common.

Been sat here trying to work it out, and failed :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, serious question now, in most if not all hydro-steer setups you see the ram on the front of the axle case as you have above, clearly this means you need to protect it more, but having said that, it is still more open to the elements, such as rocks, dirt etc.

Given that the LR hubs as standard have their arms pointing backwards, would it be possible/is there room to stick the ram on the back of the axle, giving you less of a protrusion on the front?

I'm sure in some engine/gearbox combos it would be very close/smashing into the sump, but others not so the case I would assume, especially if a dry sump is fitted as is getting more common.

Been sat here trying to work it out, and failed :)

To put it simply there is a diff in the way going behind. In order to go over the diff would be too close to the sump. To go below the diff would probably be lower than the standard track bar - these we bend quite often. So it's a bit of a non starter. I've had to put my panhard behind the axle in the area you're talking due to lack of space in front. When on the bump stops now, my ram is litterally touching my crank mounted hydraulic pump (my engine is moved back about 6" already). We have a plan to put a protective plate in front of this ram, but we think as it is now is pretty well covered. The plate that it mounts to is 10mm thick and the skid below it is 8mm. We've been jacking the truck up and down on it. I'm more than happy to bounce it off rocks.

I am liking this setup.

Questions:-

Are/were the swivel housings TD5 ones ?

how quick is it ?

I am guess you still cant using the stock LR ps pump?

Whats the setup?

Paul

Yes they are td5 housings as these come with the 'ear' on the drivers swivel hub casing.

It's as quick as we turn the wheel. I've only got an 80cc orbital on it at the moment and my 120 which arrived yesterday ....... well that turned out to be an 80 as well (mistake on sellers side!!!)

I've never run a standard LR ps pump on this engine, always run a zf74. I was on a disco 2 steering box prior to this.

What do you mean whats the setup ? :

zf74, 80cc orbital, ram about 60mm bore 35mm ish rod (these figures from memory / guessing), 4 turns lock to lock - hence wanting the 120 or maybe even a 150cc. M20 rose joints. M20 capheads through the rose joints.

Total price - £don't wish to add it up ! :lol:

I'm running a pressure gauge on the dash so i can see how much work the pump is doing.

I run a wide offset (scrub radius is miles off!!!) on the front due to the big boggers, meaning that before it was difficult to turn when parked still. With the locker in it was previously impossible to turb. This isn't a problem now.

G

(p.s. the long M20 caps should be gold plated for the price i ended up paying - £15 ea!!!!!!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy