FridgeFreezer Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 2 hours ago, western said: the deep sump in 1 st & 3rd photo's above is that not the LT230 variant not theoverdrive unit, ? overdrive sits along side the transmission brake drum not forward of it. Yes it's the Rocky Mountain deep sump, because the RM Roverdrive / Roamerdrive shares the oil with the LT230 whereas I believe the GKN doesn't for whatever reason. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 The GKN runs on ATF. EP90 is waaay to thick for it. The capacity of the gkn is about 700ml, it gets hot and ruins the oils quickly. I change it at every 6k mile service (whereas gkn recommended every 50,000km I think!!). A deeper sump with extra cooling and more capacity can only be a good thing. I’ll still change as frequently (at least to start with) so a drain plug in the sump would be really good. The roaverdrive can benefit from the bigger capacity and extra cooling the lt230 extended sump provides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 (edited) Pics (my exhaust isnt standard so may not be in the same place as a standard unit and yes, i know there is an oil leak - thats really why i was under there!): Edited May 3, 2018 by reb78 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 No room behind but plenty underneath then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Yup. Its just proximity to the exhaust to worry about i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Nothing a bit of tin wouldn't fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 27 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Nothing a bit of tin wouldn't fix seeing Fridges photos, it wouldnt be hard to fabricate something. What do folks do, put some heat reflective paint or material on the exhaust side for better effect? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Just a piece of tin will give you 90% of the effect you need, the idea is to give an air gap, and stop the radiant heat before it gets to the bit where you don't want it. The air under there shouldn't get that hot in all honesty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Yep, a scrap of any old metal and a couple of exhaust clamps to space it off the exhaust, as Bowie says it just knocks 90% of the radiant heat back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Thats good. Should be easy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 I picked up this thread from this one: Did this excellent idea get carried forward? The low-tech suggestion of a heat shield to reduce radiation from the nearby exhaust is an excellent approach. Wrapping that section of the exhaust with aluminium foil could also help by reducing its emissivity. Another low-tech approach. So, any update, please? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 I am finally getting round to getting a spacer made for the overdrive to give it a deeper sump. A work colleague of mine has cad drawn the spacer and now is going to 3d print it so I can test it before I get it water blasted out of aluminum. To help, does anybody know what bolt size holds on the sump. The head size is 11mm and the thread pitch appears to be 1mm from the thread and tap set measuring gauge that I have. Before I start looking for m7 bolts can anybody confirm what the bolt size and thread are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 ¼UNC thread IIRC. Heads are 7/16ths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little mule Posted August 20, 2023 Share Posted August 20, 2023 How technology has come a long way like three D printing parts lol I was thinking of asking a friend who has a milling machine to make me the extension housing so I could fit the MO deep sump under the over drive . The extension pipe won’t be hard to make or the magnet location . I have a question that should be pretty easy . Roamer driver sells a temp gauge set up for the deep sump on the T case. I know the MO has a drain and a temp gauge spot on the deep sump. The temp gauge looks electric and I imagine I can change it to a mechanical gauge like the deep sump for the T case . Can anyone tell me what the running temp and max temp the T case and the over drive should be run at ? There are ALOT do pros and cons between the GKN and the Roamer drive . I have a Brand new GKN and I really want to use it BUT the Roamer driver can be used in all gears and has a better oiling system . I did get a quote from Roamer driver the other day and he said he has units to sell and get out the door But will not be selling through BP anymore and now that BearMach is gone you will have to go direct to him here in Canada . the price he quoted me was about $3100.00 CAD . OUCH . he said he still has units for series /90/110 and LT95 for the RRC and the famous forward control . For that price I might as well keep my GKN and if I look after it and change the oil all the time will help,. I just worry about not being able to get parts if it not working properly . I know lots of guys on here are getting 100K miles out of them if they are looked after . I don’t plan on putting anywhere near that on my RRC after it’s restored . My RRC came with NO electronics other than electric windows and mirrors that’s it. Everything else is manual . I looked up the VIN and it states it was a police package in France . With a 2.5 VM and LT77S and a B\W T case. I do love the simplicity of his Roamer drive and having the ability of using parts out of a series or defender inside makes it some what easier to fix if it breaks and there are no electronics on it . I also like the fact I can use it is ALL gears . Where I live on the east coast of Canada it’s ALL hills lol . Anyone know how often the electronics break on the GKN if they are kept inside the cab out of the elements? How reliable is the shift solenoid? Could I just hook it up so it doesn’t have any of the electronics in it and only have the shift solenoid? I know I’ll have to be super careful not to engage it at low speed or reverse . I’ll add a light to the dash to let me know when it’s on as well as on the shifter knob. The GKN should also handle the power of my very tuned 300 , and my 1.4 T case with 33/10.5/15 . And my turbine wheels . im still grasping on what 5 speed tranny I should use or maybe a auto box . Will an auto box work with any over drive ? I was thinking a 380 but like the strength of the NV3550/4500 mated to the LT230 but I don’t think I can run the overdrive the NV series 5 speeds.I'm still figuring things out lol . This truck is NOT going to be an off Roader. I have my 1998 D1 v8 for that lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 The simple answer to running temp is we don't currently know.. but it's to hot because of what it does to the oil. As mentioned in the other tread, there are plans a foot to start sorting all this out for the GKN and make them into a reliable unit. And also provide some spares back up as sensible prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 13 minutes ago, vulcan bomber said: The simple answer to running temp is we don't currently know.. but it's to hot because of what it does to the oil. As mentioned in the other tread, there are plans a foot to start sorting all this out for the GKN and make them into a reliable unit. And also provide some spares back up as sensible prices. If you are going to be 3D printing it as a prototype first, is there not a way to add some bosses to the side of the spacer and the sump to be drilled and tapped to take bolts to securely fit a heat shield to the sump casing as well as the exhaust, a sort of belt and braces thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 46 minutes ago, JohnnoK said: If you are going to be 3D printing it as a prototype first, is there not a way to add some bosses to the side of the spacer and the sump to be drilled and tapped to take bolts to securely fit a heat shield to the sump casing as well as the exhaust, a sort of belt and braces thing? I won't be 3D printing a prototype. However, in short yes, there's lots of options. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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