ejparrott Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 I don't normally pop down here, not being an ex-military owner, but I wonder if I could tap in to the military experts that are here? Last summer I purchased a second hand copy of a military 9x9 tent from a chap with a lifted 110. Anyway, even though it was MoT'd I still had many issues with The 109, still have some in fact, and we never got to take her out and try the tent. Until a few weeks ago... Firstly, I'm very pleased with the tent, it looks like exactly what we wanted, but I have a problem, quite a major one... Where the red lines are? Thats where the steel frame of the tent was, so opening the door wasn't possible! Now, I dropped the PO an email to ask, and he suggested I try it with the tunnel stretched out as far as it will go, and this we did and it did help somewhat. He used to fit it to his +2 lifted 110 on 33x12.5 tyres, so we think it should fit my military chassis'd 109 on 238/85's..we think... We also tried fitting the tunnel, and it didn't seem to want to play. Am I right in thinking it should go right around the hardtop, in which case its my DB hitch getting in the way, or should it go over the doors frame? Thanks guys! Can anyone give me some pointers as to whether we might be doing something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Seems 9x9 tent is a generic description, you may need extension poles? which lift the tent canvas up if you have later canvas? not too sure of the versions or applications it may be the lower versions only fit soft top vehicles with the dropdown tailgate?. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?11084-Proper-Military-9x9-wolf-command-tents-for-sale! or shove a couple of bricks under the feet at the door end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davedef90 Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 9x9 are all standard sized. Not all of them fitted to the rear of LR's. You would eed the command varient. It should have a flap around the opening which does as you say go round the hardtop. There are no extention poles used in conjunction with a 9x9. As you say you have a copy and not the genuine article. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Have a look at this pic from Anchor supplies: http://www.tentsplus.co.uk/99ip.htm HTH John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 I've looked at that photo many times and wondered about it. If I put the tunnel that far down the hardtop, there isn't any way the door will open I don't think. I need to take it out again on saturday morning when I've got all day to play with it and try different things. It'll have to wait now though until I've sorted out The 109's dodgy steering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Given that a military 109 is higher than standard civvy, the 9x9 should easily fit. There is a later version for Wolfs that has leg extensions and wider mud flaps. The legs look far too splayed out, the should be more upright. There's no poles along the ground between the legs either, you either have too many poles and spiders or have done the frame totally wrong. If it is a copy, the ones I've seen aren't very good but do still fit. The copies also have the wrong mud flap material like yours. Have a look here - http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/9x9.pdf http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/SHELTERS.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 Thats a cracking piece of information, I'll enjoy reading that. There are no steel poles side to side, only front to rear, so it's possible the legs are splayed too far. My 109 SW is sitting on a military chassis, so is 2" taller than a civvy. I don't think there's anything wrong with the frame assembly, it appears to be the same as in the diagram posted. 4 short poles from eves to ridge, 5 long poles front to rear, 4 mid length poles can only be the four corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 I need to sort my trailer out later, I'll measure the poles if I get a chance. It's possible the previous owner had them made up and cut the legs too short? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 I don't believe so. The measurements would be much appreciated. The PO used this on the back of his 2" lifted 110 with few problems, so my military 109 should fit it. He did say to use the tunnel extended to help, i wonder if I need to park the 109 slightly off centre to improve the ability to open the door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Ok, got carried away and put the frame up and took some measurements, it's a genuine frame. Longitudinal poles (assembled, they are made from 2 poles with a joiner) 2550mm Cross poles at either end from apex to eaves 910mm Legs 1530mm Erected Apex height 2060mm Eaves height 1610mm Width at eaves 2005mm Width at floor 2950mm Length at floor 2650mm Frame laid out on deck Erected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highriser Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Most ex military landrovers were softtops so did not have the door issue, the tents flap was strung around the the canvas as seen on the Anchor Supplies picture, the copies do have some issues with the mud flap areas but mines older so I do not have any problems (touch wood) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 Ok, got carried away and put the frame up and took some measurements, it's a genuine frame. Longitudinal poles (assembled, they are made from 2 poles with a joiner) 2550mm Cross poles at either end from apex to eaves 910mm Legs 1530mm Erected Apex height 2060mm Eaves height 1610mm Width at eaves 2005mm Width at floor 2950mm Length at floor 2650mm Thanks for that. We're back from holiday now, and when we get a chance we'll put it up again...maybe even just the frame in the back garden without putting The 109 up to it. I'm pondering a Series-1-esq lift off hinge for the back door...the screenwash isn't attached to it anyway, a quick plug for the wiper motor, and the doors off in seconds...might just solve the issue altogether. Only question then remaining will be what to do with the spare wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Finally (!) I got the frame put up in the garden this morning, took some measurements and here's how it compares: Erected Apex height 2060mm 2060mm Eaves height 1610mm 1520mm Width at eaves 2005mm 1830mm Width at floor 2950mm 2845mm Length at floor 2650mm 2610mm So there's a little bit of difference between it and a genuine. We pushed the poles together at the bottom as far as they'd go. With luck, we're going to take The 109 out this afternoon and try it...see what happens. If the weather holds I'll put the canvas on and see if there's any opportunity to raise the height, even if only at one end. I don't think there's any other way we can put it together, its pretty obvious really, don't know why they bothered numbering it: There's five long poles, they have to be the longitudinals 'cos there's five of them. 2 of the angles joiners are different to the other four, so they must be the top ones, then there's four short poles which must be the top corners, and four mid length poles which can only be the uprights. The four mid length and the five long poles are all joined with springs, so you can't go wrong really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Might have solved it....if you pull the bottoms of the frames together as far as the slack in the joints will let them, and then reverse The 109 right up to the frame, it is possible to open the back door inside the frame. As the door opens, the curve at the top allows enough room for the tube to slot into, but it does mean some pretty accurate positioning, glad i did power steering now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ananab Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Hi sorry to dig up an old subject. The 9x9 'penthouse version for the back of hardtops had mating fixings around the outside of the rear door on the rover, so you could attach the penthouse tunnel. We used to reverse up to the tent with the rear door open and just have a bod lift the tunnel over the open door and clip a couple of the catches to attach the tent. We rarely fully attached in case we need to make a quick 'getaway'. The length of the tunnel was around the same length as the open door, so it didn't 'intrude' on the rest of the tent. Also mean't whilst on radio stag you could sit in the back of the rover and watch everyone else get some shut eye. If i remember right the mating catches where around a rim that shadowed the door frame a couple of inches out and the catches were just twist catches that fitted through eyes at the end of the canvas tunnel. Hmmmm, sorry this was a bit long winded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 I'll have to have a look in to that some more. At the moment I've got some serious issues with wobbling to deal with, and a gearbox change imminent, but then I'll be looking to crack on in earnest and get the camping fitout sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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