Daan Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Ok, todays scene: I recently had a crankshaft seal problem that went from a slight drip to completely ridiculous in a very short time. It looked as if there was no seal there, that much oil dripped out of it. So today I thought just pull out the engine, swap the seal and drop it back in. Predictably, it wasn’t so easy…. First of all, there was so much oil that the clutch plate has become contaminated. I think that means a new clutch plate (about 2000 miles on it ). When I took the flywheel off, the problem showed. The seal has slipped out of the flywheel housing and rubbing against the flywheel. It appears to have moved. Marks on flywheel Seal, grean paint gone. The seal, which is normally painted green, had the paint stripped of, presumably while pressing it in, and now turns freely in the bellhouse. The lip looked ok, but the oil clearly found another way past the seal Not sure what to do here, engine is a 300 tdi, with a TD housing and seal (sealno err2532G, from allmakes in a white box). I haven’t tried the new seal in the bellhousing yet, but I still think it will be tight fit. Anyone seen this before? Any bright ideas what to do, as this is not a job I fancy doing again. Would excessive oil pressure cause it? I also had an incident recently were it showed about half a litre of oil coming out of the cambelt cover when I removed the plug, but I put that down to a blocked breather. But I kind of wonder if I have stuck pressure regulator in my oil pump. I suppose the clutch plate is junk, or does anyone know a way of cleaning it? Any input welcome. daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 theres a good chance the seal was dislodged when the housings were swapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Been there before you, my 14J had the 1st seal leak after about 1000 miles with no obvious defect to account for it and its replacement a month later and about 250 miles fell out like yours, even though it was a tight fit going in. I thought **** this for a hobby as i never liked the look of the Dowty seals, so the next seal fitted was a pattern one that was orange and squishy, that has been fine ever since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Been there before you, my 14J had the 1st seal leak after about 1000 miles with no obvious defect to account for it and its replacement a month later and about 250 miles fell out like yours, even though it was a tight fit going in. I thought **** this for a hobby as i never liked the look of the Dowty seals, so the next seal fitted was a pattern one that was orange and squishy, that has been fine ever since. Hmm, Do you know the supplier? The setup as far as can see works ok, I have run it since 2002. I only swapped the seal out in 2010, when I had to swap the crank. Thats the one that is now giving the problem. Actually, the seal fitted was from bearmach, the replacement I was planning to put in is Allmakes. They look exactly the same though. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Are the Allmakes or bearmach ones branded? If not I would get a branded seal like corteco (assuming they make one for the crank seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Would it be worth trying some form of loctite? maybe 640 .... just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Woodward Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 You say you suspected the crankcase breather was blocked? Maybe the seal blew out due to crankcase pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 The cam cover breather was blocked, but that shouldn't have caused this problem, and the crankcase has a 1" thick pipe going into the intake (as per standard TDI), so I cant see this being a problem. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Hmm, Do you know the supplier? Daan Allmakes i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'm going with a badly sized seal. And it just looks wrong for a crank seal? I've never had this in all the years of fitting, but I've never known so many 'bad' parts ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickMc Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'd go for the Corteco seal never had any bother with them you could add a small smear of RTV round it to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Mine that fell out was genuine Dowty which is OE supply and the 1st that was leaking was also Dowty. The 1st time i ever saw one i had no faith in them as they just looked wrong for a seal, hard no edge and no gaiter spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'd go for the Corteco seal never had any bother with them you could add a small smear of RTV round it to be safe. Do you know a supplier? All the regular Landrover places only offer the OE dowty one. Thanks for all the replys so far, there always seems to be an endless depth of knowledge on this forum! Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Daan, have you Tried MID Engineering nr Wantage? They are great for parts 01235 771114 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Daan, have you Tried MID Engineering nr Wantage? They are great for parts 01235 771114 Ok, I give them a hit. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Quick update: I got to the bottom of the seal problem, eventually. Basically there are 2 partnumbers for this seal. There is ERR2532 and there is ERR2532G. The G one is the OE one which has given me trouble, the one without a G is the all rubber seal. ERR2532G on the left, ERR2532 on the right. The rubber seal is a tight fit in the housing, I also applied a bit of RTV to make me feel better, but I don’t think it is strictly needed. Both are allmakes partnumbers, Bearmach didn’t seem to understand what I was talking about, and have no recollection what the seal looks like, so they weren’t getting me anywhere. I also had a slight weep from the mounting face between the block and the flywheel house. I got a gasket for a 200TDI, part ERR1440, and modified it to fit a 300 TDI by enlarging 2 holes with a 16 mm hollow pipe and cut it shorter. The left bottom and right top holes need enlarging Thanks to MID services for making me aware of these numbers, they also supplied the seal. I also replaced the clutch plate and replaced the manifold gasket at the same time, then dropped the engine back in. Fingers crossed all is well. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Glad you got it sorted Daan. Mark at MID is a top chap and has always sorted me out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Digging this up from the past. Yes, that allmakes crankseal started leaking, after about a year leak free. The leak became quite big, so the engine is out again. The crank seal face looked mint, so thats not the problem. Having thought of the problem, I figured that with most critical parts on a land rover, Genuine is the only answer. But a genuine seal has this stupid green paint on the outside, which comes off when you press it in the hole, leaving the seal loose in the hole. So what do I do? I started by buying a genuine seal from the dealer: I scraped of the paint: Then glued it in using loctite 640 (high temperature retaining compound). This should stop it from popping out. I hope this works, will keep you all posted. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I used an allmakes seal in my 200tdi, three weeks later I was removing the engine again to fit a genuine seal, the green paint didn't come off mine when I fitted it. Are you doing it as per workshop manual where you remove the flywheel housing to fit the seal? Perhaps that's specific to 200's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Its hard to judge whether the green paint comes off. I have not removed the housing, it is a bit more fidly with the housing on, but if you use the expander and have a round tube of the right size, you can tap it in quite nicely. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Hi Daan On the 200 the joint between the flywheel housing and the block is oil-side and the heavy wax paper gasket gets hard from heat and fails , s it may be worth popping it off and replacing it ? cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 There seems to be some misunderstanding and scepticism regarding the later type seals. I was workshop foreman in a L/R dealers when they first appeared so maybe the following may help. It's a Dowty seal and was introduced by Land Rover on the Turbo D engines because the earlier seal couldn't cope with the increased crankcase pressures. It's a very good seal and was subsequently retained on the Tdi engines. It does however need to be fitted correctly, the "paint" around the outside is in fact a sealant and if fitted to the correct depth (below flush) in the housing, should not come out. The seal must be fitted to a clean, dry crank, if you lubricate the crank, the seal will not bed in and work properly, the seal relies on a degree of friction to mould itself to the crankshaft, hence the no lubricant. The seal guide should not be removed except when it's pushed out during fitting. If the guide is accidentally displaced you must not touch the sealing surface and carefully refit the guide. After reassembling the engine you must not run it above 1000rpm for at least five minutes to allow the seal to work. I've no idea if the "aftermarket" seals are genuine Dowty or just copies. It's a Dowty that comes out of a Land Rover box though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Hi Daan On the 200 the joint between the flywheel housing and the block is oil-side and the heavy wax paper gasket gets hard from heat and fails , s it may be worth popping it off and replacing it ? cheers Steveb I did replace this seal in 2012 (see post 16), and haven't found a reason to replace it now. Also, on a 300, it does not seal to the sump (see modification in post 16). Either way, the engine is back in now! There seems to be some misunderstanding and scepticism regarding the later type seals. I was workshop foreman in a L/R dealers when they first appeared so maybe the following may help. It's a Dowty seal and was introduced by Land Rover on the Turbo D engines because the earlier seal couldn't cope with the increased crankcase pressures. It's a very good seal and was subsequently retained on the Tdi engines. It does however need to be fitted correctly, the "paint" around the outside is in fact a sealant and if fitted to the correct depth (below flush) in the housing, should not come out. The seal must be fitted to a clean, dry crank, if you lubricate the crank, the seal will not bed in and work properly, the seal relies on a degree of friction to mould itself to the crankshaft, hence the no lubricant. The seal guide should not be removed except when it's pushed out during fitting. If the guide is accidentally displaced you must not touch the sealing surface and carefully refit the guide. After reassembling the engine you must not run it above 1000rpm for at least five minutes to allow the seal to work. I've no idea if the "aftermarket" seals are genuine Dowty or just copies. It's a Dowty that comes out of a Land Rover box though. Yes, I thought the paints job was to keep it in, but judging from my previous experience, it doesn't always work. I have kept the expander in and the sealing face degreased and dry. I really hope this time it will work. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Reading this with interest, I'm planning on doing this seal to my 2.5 n/a and also to replace the clutch. I've been looking at parts and seen the two different seals, ERR2532 and the G one. So the G part is what I am after? How has the seal been been working so far? Did you use the G part? Thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Also found this seal, would it be worth the extra cost as it's a dowty seal? http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/err-2532-rear-oil-seal-c2x21124150 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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