mmgemini Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Washing up bowls in place See I've used the holes in the fridge door for the antilucie Bracket Bracket folded ready to put away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Jocky wheel and stand I was never happy with the original jocky wheel I fitted. I found this one. A wider wheel that I hope doesn't sink in soft ground. The tube is 48mm dia and doesn't seem to wobble about. It's firmer. On the other side of the A frame I've fitted a stand, again 48mm post. We found that steady stands weren't required behind the rear wheels I do have a 12" square waffle to go under the prop stand for soft ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Aah Mike - love it! The washbasin support is just class. Its these wee things that make life away all that much more civilized! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry m Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Looking good Mike are you still taking it down to Donnington next week? If so I'll pop over to the campsite to say hello and check out the progress , Harry & Denise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Yes ? ? We've hit two problems. The Voltmeter circuit doesn't seem right. That's an easy fix to by-pass The other problem is a water leak or three. There hasn't been a problem all the time it's stood, now we have water inside. I'm drying the roof out then Tank Tape along the joints... Then we're wondering how wet the ground will be at the camp site. Margaret is going to ring on Wednesday most likely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Has anybody used this Sorry it's lying down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I used poly tunnel repair tape last year. Actually very impressed with it. Make sure the surfaces are clean and don't try to stick on too large a piece. Once it is stuck, it is on for good. One thing that worries me about your plan is that using tape on the inside may stop the water dropping at that point but it doesn't actually cure the leak. The water is through the metal seam and may travel via capillary action in the gap between the inside seam and the tape. Then it has the potential to appear somewhere else or cause corrosion etc. The tape may also be prone to fail if it is stuck to two hard surfaces that can flex differentially? Is it possible to inject Tiger Seal? Maybe control is spread by masking either side, removing excess with a scraper then removing the masking tape? (That's how I did the outside of my 110 roof). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 I didn't go for Tiger seal, as you know I used Carbond. What I don't understand is that I wasn't mean with the Carbond. I've used the Tank Tape as a temporary measure until the warmer ?? weather. Then I'll clean up all the seams and try to get the Carbond in with a scraper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Store bins, cupboard ? "doors" fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 We stayed at Donington Farmhouse Hotel camp site for the Donington show A general view of the trailer. The awning, canopy was made up from the extension of the dome tent we had. Notice the sodden muddy ground The trailer right hand side, There's a PETT dry toilet in there http://www.thepett.co.uk/ Easy to use and easy to empty.. Waste bagged abd binned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Sorry I didn't manage to get over to see your trailer Mike. By the time we were packed and out of the hall, getting home seemed the highest priority! Hopefully I'll get to see it at one of the other shows. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Looks great as always Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Ha! Land Rover, trailer wagon, lots of gubbins, a muddy field, happy people! Looks very comfy. Nice set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Now that we've managed to stop the roof leaks, well we hope so. There's another water problem, condensation. So today I cut the rear panel to take air vents. There's Shade netting between the inner and outer vents to stop, we hope, any draughts More vents might be needed at the front but we hope not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 What insulation do you have inside? Your picture here: Posted 11 February 2014 - 01:28 PM appears to show very little. Chemical 'converters' will sell you sheet closed cell foam in a large batch sufficient to cover all your internal surfaces and anything else you fancy covering. It's black though and may make it gloomy so you might need to cover it with some lighter coloured automotive carpet. More ventilation wont necessarily solve the problem as all you'll do is make it colder then have to increase your heating to combat the cold and increase the condensation. This is even more of a problem if you use gas heating as its not a 'dry' heat. I've done a couple of 110's with closed cell foam from Kay Metzeler and its brilliant (needs good glue though) and not only keeps the van warm with zero condensation but makes it much quieter too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 There's only insulation between the panels, I thought that would be enough. No gas on board !!! Don't even have gas in the house ! Using an oil filled radiator. Didn't you see the cotton drapes on the sides ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Ah ok. So there's insulation inside the walls. So then the condensation will just be on the inner skin? (and not forming inside the panels and dripping out). If so I guess simply cover the inside with some thin foam or preferably automotive carpet. You can get some that is a little bit 'stretchy' so can neatly form itself all around the various angles and surfaces. I was shown some in a campervan maker's recently. Looks like it would be worth the modest investment to make your wagon less prone to moisture. I watched my 110 moisten up inside after a simple shower of rain - the drop in temp on the alloy roof was enough to cause condensation on the inside. Here's some http://www.megavanmats.com/liningcarpet.htm and on the well-known auction site at a reasonable price here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Have a read of what Google brings up https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=caravan+condensation&rlz=1C1DVCA_enGB328GB328&oq=caravan+condensation&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.8995j0j8&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8 If the big manufacturers can't stop it, how can I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 I put two layers of closed cell foam in my 110. The first layer was stuck tightly to the alloy, roof and sides, ensuring all the alloy had glue on it so the foam stuck,to minimize uncovered alloy surfaces. The second layer was not so critical, but was stuck well enough. On top of that was thin carpet for 'finish'. Result is zero condensation, or so minimal that it's easily ignored (I have not noticed any). I have a warm, damp-free, smell-free van, that is cooler in summer, warmer in winter, and quiet. Has been like this for over a decade, through serious sub-zero temps, rain, ice and snow. I was looking at a three year old £80,000 campervan last week (not to buy, just for curiosity as the repair engineer was poking at it) and the whole rear wooden subframe in one area is rotten due to water ingress and condensation due to poor design/construction. There's your big manufacturer's workmanship. My £100 worth of closed cell foam did better. I am confident you will easily be able to solve your problem and with minimal cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Do you have an electric fridge in your van? You can use this as a fairly effective de-humidifier by ducting the condensate outside and leaving it switched on during the day with the door open. At night, it tends to get too cold and just ice up. Set the thermostat to as warm as it will go (least cold). I found it works pretty well. Even better if you have a fan to circulate the air! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Yes Simon there's a fridge but it's not in the sleeping compartment. If you go back a few pages you'll see how the fridge fits. We're away next week for two or three weeks. Let's see how things go then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Mike, Just been catching up with your thread great job, you must be very proud of it, I bet Margaret is happy not to have to sleep in the tent anymore! I had a condensation issue with my trailer that was fixed when I added the van roof vents, the air they move keeps the air inside moving and shifts the damp air, great as they use no power and work well when towing. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Hi Jason. Well we THINK we have sorted the condensation. The two vents at the back have helped, also Margaret bought some de-humidifier chrystals. No more big drips. Yes Margaret is very happy with our work. There's a couple more jobs we've added to the list. If you look at the last picture like this you will see I've added feet to the poles. This has the advantage that the canvas clears the doors. The downside of this is the other outside light is outside the canvas. Secondly in the cold weather we had we didn't want the door open, so I'm fitting another light in the side in front of the door so the "kitchen" can be lit in the dark. It was never intended to use this sort of awning but it was nearly free. We hope to have another awning for the other side so that there's a "bathroom" on that side. At the back the gap at the rear of the battery box will be filled with a removeable drop door. That space will take the groundsheets, that means no wet muddy ground sheets in my Defender. You'll notice we've spread out a bit. Plenty room under cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Where's your spare gone mike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Where's your spare gone mike? Well spotted/ Actually it's in my garden. I took it off the bonnet, I have one on the rear door, to see if it was easier to see over the bonnet. I don't think it is so I might clean the bonnet, then it's going back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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