Bluemoon Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 just wondering how easy it is to convert a Defender transfer box to a remote box, , using mostly Land rover spares, or links to anyone done it. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush65 Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Reasonably easy. The case only has a mount on the RH side, so a new LH mount has to be made - can bolt to front of the transfer case where the gearbox normally goes. For the input, it is easiest to modify the spudshaft from a ZF auto transmission - use the later one with longer splines - see Ashcroft Transmissions. Then weld a flange to the end that protrudes forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 In what way is a transfer box made remote, what does it do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 In what way is a transfer box made remote, what does it do? In short you drive it via a propshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I'm guesing this would be for some sort of long vehicle project then? As I see it, you need the extra mount on the n/s for the transfer box then, a steel plate bolted to the 6 t'box to g'box face should provide that, and I'd think you would need to fabircate an o/s mount for the gearbox too, to replace the missing one that goes with the t'box. Problem as I see it is there is nothing physically holding the output shaft of the gearbox into the input gear of the LT230, unlike on a series. If you're going to use the same Hi/Low linkage you may have an issue with the difflock machanism, it operates side to side and has a little crank and connecting bar. I don't know if the crank is on a square drive so could be rotated, but I'm sure an ig neious mechanism could be made - failing which convert it to bowden cable anyway. Hi/Low should present no problem, just needs extra long linkages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 The most common reason is to fit a different engine / gearbox combo, but keep the original transfer. It means you can use an engine out of a much wider range of vehicles, not just 4x4's. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 It occurs to me that a rubberised coupling may be wise, otherwise there could be misalignment and vibration issues. Maybe an adaptor plate or other machined fabrication between transfer box and gearbox would help too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 With the a propshaft set up correctly you won't have any vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html I also so a home brew recipie to make this kind of shaft, using a diff drive flange and a series 10 spline shaft.... i just cannot find it now. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 With the a propshaft set up correctly you won't have any vibration. I dunno, the engine and gearbox might be support on 4 places but the t'box would only have 2 rubber bushes - not exactly rigid, by design. I shall follow with interest, hopefully the OP will keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I dunno, the engine and gearbox might be support on 4 places but the t'box would only have 2 rubber bushes - not exactly rigid, by design. I shall follow with interest, hopefully the OP will keep us updated. In theory you could actually have the box remote but still attached to the gearbox, sounds counterintuitive but you could link them using custom brackets and still have a propshaft between the two..... but they would then vibrate as one unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 If you design your tbox mount correctly it shouldn't be able to tip much, and that's the only flex direction you should really worry about for the baby propshaft IMO. The tbox will want to move in the direction of the torque going through it (together with the rest of the engine and gearbox etc), and you should be able to adequately catch that. It's been done plenty of times with a regular propshaft, no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I've done almost exactly this (for a twin transfer conversion) by using two flange yokes (the but on either end of a prop shaft with a bolt on flange) connected by a single UJ. It allows for small angular offsets and is very short <80mm. Then you make mountings that hold the two rigidly together - but it reduces the tolerance required. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I dunno, the engine and gearbox might be support on 4 places but the t'box would only have 2 rubber bushes - not exactly rigid, by design. I shall follow with interest, hopefully the OP will keep us updated. You wouldn't just leave the t'box on only two bushes though would you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 In theory you could actually have the box remote but still attached to the gearbox, sounds counterintuitive but you could link them using custom brackets and still have a propshaft between the two..... but they would then vibrate as one unit Thats what I meant with 'a fabrication'....sort of two flanges machined parallel to bolt on the t'box and g'box, with shaft running bewteen the too.....a tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 You wouldn't just leave the t'box on only two bushes though would you? That would mean an entire remanufacture of the existing mount on the o/s then, or a new n/s mount - required anyway - that supported the t'box on 2 bushes, so that it has three fixing points. I still think it would flex independantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 That would mean an entire remanufacture of the existing mount on the o/s then, or a new n/s mount - required anyway - that supported the t'box on 2 bushes, so that it has three fixing points. I still think it would flex independantly. Its going to, The whole idea of being divorced is to get them separate, and not use the original gearbox/engine. So making new mounts is hardly a concern. There is no point in making a divorced t/box and then bolt it all back to the gearbox over the distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 ......There is no point in making a divorced t/box and then bolt it all back to the gearbox over the distance. Why? I'd assume the whole point was so you could have the transfer box where you wanted and driven by the gearbox and engine of your choice (also located where you want) without being limited to a gearbox that will 'mate' with the transfer box. Neither of those reasons precludes you bolting the two boxes together with WonderBracketsâ„¢ Remote in this context just means the gearbox shaft isn't inserted into the transfer box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 All the extra effort to make them bolt together! You would still need a propshaft inside (Unlikely you could line it up well enough otherwise), so you're just creating extra work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Wouldn't have to be a propshaft. We could machine a fabrication to within minimal tolerances, and then use a rubberised coupling dodah to take care of the rest. The gearbox/t'box interface is dowelled is it not? Pickup off those as a location point and put yourself within 10 thou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 The tube/solid shaft can be done. But it took three attempts. Amazing how stuff pulls when its welded. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Wouldn't have to be a propshaft. We could machine a fabrication to within minimal tolerances, and then use a rubberised coupling dodah to take care of the rest. The gearbox/t'box interface is dowelled is it not? Pickup off those as a location point and put yourself within 10 thou. Its dowled yes but this is a land rover so it puts you within a stones throw... When stuffs welded it will moved.. Its worth getting it right so you can have a shaft machined from solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush65 Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Reasonably easy. The case only has a mount on the RH side, so a new LH mount has to be made - can bolt to front of the transfer case where the gearbox normally goes. For the input, it is easiest to modify the spudshaft from a ZF auto transmission - use the later one with longer splines - see Ashcroft Transmissions. Then weld a flange to the end that protrudes forward. Here are some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Weld, rough machine, stress relieve, finish machine, no problem! We do it every week for a living, and some pretty big fabrications sometimes too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 I thought a remote transfer box was the way the Merc G Wagons were set up so nothing wrong with the idea. Also if a slip joint and UJ are used as in the pictures from Bush65 I can't really see why the transfer box would need much in the way of rubber mountings, it really shouldn't have any reason to move, it can be a fixed point with everything else moving around it. I used a stub shaft from an autobox as others have suggested and welded it to the output shaft from the new (non landrover) gearbox, then made up a rigid converstion coupling to bolt the transfer box to the new gearbox when doing my current project. The shaft was welded and machined by a friend who does this sort of thing regularly, usually for bigger and more powerfull things so hopefully it will stand the test of time, so far it has driven up and down the driveway successfully and if I can get some time off hopefully it will get a bit further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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