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Paul Woodward

3/4" drive socket set. Any recommendations?

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I'm looking to buy an a/f and metric 3/4" drive socket set. It's not going to get a great deal of use so I don't want to spend too much. I thought I'd buy a cheaper set and if /when something breaks I'd replace that bit with a quality one. At the last place I worked we had a set that took some real stick, it was chrome vanadium but un branded.

Looking on eBay there's a vast range of sets so has anyone got any recommendations?

Thanks.

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"I thought I'd buy a cheaper set and if /when something breaks I'd replace that bit with a quality one."

Sounds an excellent plan. The ratchet is the bit that you'll kill easily, so a cheap socket set and a decent ratchet works well. I got lucky and my cheapo ratchet takes a scaffold tube okay.

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hi

i have a af n metric draper set that goes upto 46mm and a 1metre snap on crack bar

its the best set i have ever had

it takles every thing

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Halford's have some cracking deals socket sets it's worth a look as most are metric and imperial.

jason.

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Once you've stuck a scafold bar on a 3/4 drive tomy bar and bounced up and down a few times you'll never want to abuse 1/2" drive tools again ;) Have to agree with Team Idris that the only thing you'll likely break is the ratchet internals.... with a scafold bar.

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hi, i was asking the same question on here a year or two ago, the reply was fantastic, not sure how i can link it up but im sure a whizz kid can. if you google "what socket set on lr4x4" it comes up straight away, hth.

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Once you've stuck a scafold bar on a 3/4 drive tomy bar and bounced up and down a few times you'll never want to abuse 1/2" drive tools again ;)

Seconded!

I bought one of these, a bit cheap'n'nasty looking, and metric only, but so far has been an fantastic at removing everything I've thrown at it. And it includes a proper tommy bar too!

I always wince when people on here mention that they stuck a scaff bar on the end of the ratchet...why?

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Avoid Draper, the sockets are fine, but the ratchet, well, lets put it this way, got a 1/4 drive Sealy ratchet that can put up with more abuse.

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Personally I wouldn't buy a socket set. I'd buy the bars and ratchets then get the sockets as needed. I've only four 3/4 drive sockets in my tool box. Then I only worked on trucks, not plant.

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why not buy a 3/4 drive knuckle or breaker bar instead of sticking a scaff pole over a ratchet? I rarely use my 3/4 ratchet as I can usually use a 1/2" ratchet and adapter once its been cracked with a bar. Extending a ratchet is a disaster waiting to happen it'll result in a knackered ratchet or even personal injury!

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I'd go for something 2nd hand, and old of a reasonable brand. It's amazing what crops up.

I've just been given a 3/4" set, ratchet, t-bar, extensions etc by by next door neighbour, the sockets are marked Taiwan, which dates it rather. But it's a Kamasa set in a metal case, and I have always thought well of that name. My dad has a 1/2" Kamasa set that must be over 30 years old, we've yet to break that and it's seen quite some abuse

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Madmatt has it right - no point in abusing a ratchet when a knuckle or 'T' bar is far cheaper and much stronger. There are times when you need to put a ratchet on a 3/4 drive socket, but they are few and far between, and most times you just need the maximum grunt to get something loose (or really tight). I'd go for a good quality 'T' bar and buy sockets as you need them. I bought a 3/4 Facom 'T' bar last year and it was only about 30 quid.

Nick.

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why not buy a 3/4 drive knuckle or breaker bar instead of sticking a scaff pole over a ratchet? I rarely use my 3/4 ratchet as I can usually use a 1/2" ratchet and adapter once its been cracked with a bar. Extending a ratchet is a disaster waiting to happen it'll result in a knackered ratchet or even personal injury!

That's the way I work Matt. Even to the half inch stuff. Break with the correct bar then go to hand size. Yes I do have a 3/8" [for the ratchet] to a 4/4" adaptor {for the socket]

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My set is by Facom.

You need to bare in mind that a ratchet in that size is about 18" long so can't be used in many places.

As has been said I tend to use a bar to get things moving then switch to 1/2" (unless I can get the windy gun in, never come across anything that won't shift.) :i-m_so_happy:

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I have a 3/4 drive torque wrench and when under the 110 you can only just get 1 click of the ratchet before hitting the road, so yep length goes against you.

I have a set of 3/4 drive impact sockets that I bought off eBay (I think) and an old T-bar that my Dad picked up somewhere. The T-bar has survived over 6ft of scafold pole when undoing some military split rims that hadn't been split in 40+ years and is still dead straight. :)

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I have had a Silverline (don't laugh :blush:) ratchet set for a few years and it has been given some stick on the basis that if you break it its cheap and they say they will replace it for life but I haven't tested this as I haven't managed to break it yet. I used to smash a few ratchets some years back trying to undo rusted stuff, blissfully unaware of such a thing as a BFO breaker bar.

Now I would give it some beans with the biggest bar straight away if it even looked a bit rusty and not ruin the ratchet. ;)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/21-PC-3-4-DRIVE-METRIC-SOCKET-SET-GUARANTEED-FOREVER-/370595149711?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item564931378f#ht_2560wt_1320

J2J

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Most of our ratchets at work are 3/4. But i refuse to use a scaff bar on the end of them. Instead break the bolt / nut with a strong arm and then use the ratchet.

We have various makes facom, gedore etc...Most of the ratchets eventually break, but you can get service kits for them and rebuild.

The fun starts with big windy guns :) I don't think we've actually got a 1/2" gun at work :lol: maybe 1 x 3/4" the rest are 1" / 1 1/2" :)

G

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While at a friends workshop I saw a gun they had been sent in for a service, wasn't compressed air ... it was a 2 stroke petrol engined impact gun :), apparently belonged to a mobile tyre fitter ....

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While at a friends workshop I saw a gun they had been sent in for a service, wasn't compressed air ... it was a 2 stroke petrol engined impact gun :), apparently belonged to a mobile tyre fitter ....

Now that's bloody heavy duty!

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Thanks for the replies everyone. What you're saying about buying a quality bar and adding sockets as and when makes a lot of sense. I work on vintage cars, the nuts can be big but not usually that tight. Occasionally I'll need to use a 1/2" rattle gun but not the chain saw version!

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Not the one I saw at my mates but a newer version ...

http://www.erico.com...ts/GT3500GE.asp

1030Nm at full throttle apparently :)

Forget swapping series engines with Montego diesels, one of these would do the trick nicely :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:

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