Jump to content
Landy-Novice

what the BEST chassis protection?

Recommended Posts

hello all, as i have my rear tub off, i want to protect what i have left, i have searched but not come to a definitive answer. so what have you all tried?? rust converter? zinc paint? ideally something that allows me (if needs be) to work on the chassis.

thanks. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lots of different opinions on this some people like waxoil the next person wont go near it with a barge pole. Personally i just paint mine with cheap paint when i've got some time spare after a quick wire brushing.. My chassis is 22 years old and never had a welder near it because of corrosion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wire brush in an angle grinder until there's no rust left and then a marine gloss paint would be my vote. Marine paints are always a better bet than diy options as while they cost more they are extremely effective. The major advantage of paint is it can be easily washed and any damage is easily spotted and rectified.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The best thing I've found for cleaning chassis down are poly discs in an angle grinder - feeble looking things that look a bit like a dish scourer, but will take rust and paint back to bare shiny metal in one sweep. Two or three should do most of a chassis, try not to go over a sharp edge with them as it wears them down quick. I prepare two or three chassis a month and it used to take me half a day to clean them up with wire cup brush - poly discs do it in an hour.

I always use 'hammerite underseal with waxoil' - about a tenner from Halfords and really good stuff. I paint it straight on bare metal and it leaves a nice smooth satin black finish that doesn't stay oily and doesn't chip or flake off like paint. Been using it for six or seven years and not had rust come through it yet.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

another vote for electrox primer.. excellent product.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've always been a proponent of a simple 2-layer paint coating, a lot easier to clean and check up on.

Waxoyl or similar cavity wax on the inside of the chassis by all means, but it's far too messy to have it on the outside in my opinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We did mine with shalts ( i think thats how its spelt ) really sicky stuff, and has worked ok so far, you just spray it on

The best thing you could truely do would be to clean it all up and use navy steal but thats so much money, cheaper to buy another chassis lol

Daniel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

POR 15 on mine a couple of months back. Clean back chassis with wire brush, spray on marine degreaser, rinse, spray on 'metal prep', rinse then let it dry and put on 2 coats of POR15. I think all in it cost me £50.

chassis looks good now :D

G

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used black waxoil - thinned with some fresh engine oil. The advantage of waxoil is it gets to places you can't paint. Did it many years ago - still in great shape.

If I was doing a bare chassis I'd get it hot dipped, then painted with a few layers of decent chassis paint.

G.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i'm cleaning mine with flap discs (as mentioned), then a good coat of red oxide on the outside. trying to work out the best way of spraying jenolite or something similar inside the chassis to kill any rust, before plastering it in waxoyl. the outside will hopefully be coated in marine enamel, either black, or a nice dark blue

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got my 2 disco projects running at the moment and looking at 2 vehicles of similar age (95&96), the older one appears to be in better nick steel work wise, it was obviously proffesionally undersealed at some point in its life (early on I recon) which for the majority of the body and chassis its done a great job of protecting it, but where water has been allowed to get in on top of it, its festered away until you prod it with your pinky and it has the consistancy of a buttered bit o bread.

I also put at clean 03 bulkhead into my 90 just under 2 yrs ago now, i re/added more sealent to edges etc to keep the water "out" - i never thought about keeping it in... after the stripdown this month I was horrified to see holes in the main seam between the pedal box top plate and the vertical flat plate of the bulkhead... all where I applied my tiger seal...

So to end a rather lengthy story, its got me thinking seriously about what I apply to my steel for prevention and protection... I think I prefere crusty paint to unforseen rust worm... fan of waxoyl too!!!! - but na good when you add welding close by...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I regularly weld up landrovers and have found those that are regularly washed underneath even without adding any extra paint or rust prevention are in far better condition than those with rust preventative measures left with mud covering the chassis, I think a clean chassis gets wet and dries off, a muddy chassis gets wet and stays wet.

I think moisture is a major requirement for either rust or electrolytic corrosion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I regularly weld up landrovers and have found those that are regularly washed underneath even without adding any extra paint or rust prevention are in far better condition than those with rust preventative measures left with mud covering the chassis, I think a clean chassis gets wet and dries off, a muddy chassis gets wet and stays wet.

I think moisture is a major requirement for either rust or electrolytic corrosion.

Ditto to this. Have always kept chassis etc clean with a jet wash after EVERY laning/off road event in +20years....it works funnily enough. :i-m_so_happy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It still strikes me with dread over on ORRP whenever rust proofing is mentioned - the same as it do when I saw this thread start ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don’t know if you’re going to down to a ‘bare chassis’ level of stripdown, but if you are, don’t forget you can have the chassis galvanised:

See here for the thread that inspired me to do it

And here for my build thread showing how I did it

The advantage is that whilst it won’t be as good as a new galv-chassis, at about £300 it’s far cheaper than a new galv chassis (Best part of £1800 delivered), and waxoyl+good exterior paint will easily come in at £100 in materials alone.

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Classic thread :hysterical:

Wasnt it all a Masonic conspiracy against Dougal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy