smokinv8 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Noticed that the uj cups have been spinning externally instead of internally (circlip scoring around cup face) on my rear prop and were worn so replaced both uj's recently. However I now see that the same transfer box end uj has started the same game. I'm guessing this means there must be wear in the yoke? I'm sure I know the answer, new prop?? As I'm attending 7 sisters next weekend can I get away with this by just regular greasing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi_110 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 There's a Loctite product, 660 Quick Metal, that you smear on bearing shells that have flogged out their seats before pressing them in. It will take-up 0.5mm of play, sets hard, but will release in a press. I would try that before springing for a new prop. Just make sure your cups and seats mating surfaces are cleaned with a solvent and dry befiore you apply the 660 and press them back in. I've used it successfuly on various applications like yours. Here's a link to the spec sheet: http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93755_Loctite_660_Quick_Metal_Retaining_Compound.pdf Ray. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 hmmm, if you where keen you could always remove the cups and threadlock them to the yolk would probably do for a temporary fix - just make sure they are properly clean before doing it. mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I think I'd be guided by how much free play or sideways slop there is in the sliding joint. If it's noticeable I'd tend towards a new propshaft as it should cure three problems, making the expense more justifiable (worn yokes at both ends, worn sliding joint). If the sliding joint is still OK, then 'gluing' the cups in place is worth a try. I suggest you do price a new shaft before splashing out on special glues, which can be surprisingly expensive, IMHO :-) HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 We used to pop the inside of the yokes with a center punch. Or run a bit of solder in there. Never had a problem with the center pop idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 We used to pop the inside of the yokes with a center punch. Or run a bit of solder in there. Never had a problem with the center pop idea. What do you mean pop the inside out of interest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I assume he means put a few marks with the centre punch, as well as making a dent it also raises the metal around the dent so gripping the bearing cup. The more marks the better the grip as more metal raised...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I assume he means put a few marks with the centre punch, as well as making a dent it also raises the metal around the dent so gripping the bearing cup. The more marks the better the grip as more metal raised...... Yep right the way round and across the inside of the yoke. Never had a problem with little ford D series or Cargo trucks doing it that way. Don't remember replacing a prop either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokinv8 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 I think I'd be guided by how much free play or sideways slop there is in the sliding joint. If it's noticeable I'd tend towards a new propshaft as it should cure three problems, making the expense more justifiable (worn yokes at both ends, worn sliding joint). If the sliding joint is still OK, then 'gluing' the cups in place is worth a try. I suggest you do price a new shaft before splashing out on special glues, which can be surprisingly expensive, IMHO :-) HTH Both the sliding joint and the axle end of the prop are fine its just the other end. Think I'l have a try with both the centre punch idea and some threadlock (only cos I have some). Thanks for the help though guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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