Boris113 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 I have a little compressor that I bought from Lidl a while back, it's got a 2.5hp motor and puts out about 9.5cfm (i think) but it only has a 25l tank on it. I'm planning on respraying the 90 fairly soon, it will be my first attempt at a full car and will be in satin nato green. Whilst I would like to do a good job, it will be bent around trees on a regular basis so a professional finish isn't hugely important. I have bought the spray gun from a local air tools company and they said the motor on the compressor should be up to spec for the gun but the main problem I will have is the stop-start nature of painting due to the small tank size. I have been given a few pub size gas cans from work and wanted to know if it is possible to connect them to the compressor to increase the volume of air that I can store? They are not the CO2 version, but the nitrogen/CO2 mix version (different connections). I was thinking of connecting a couple of them to the outlet on the compressor, followed by a regulator and then a moisture trap. Is there any reason as to why I can't do this and has anyone done it before? Apologies if this is a stupid question, I have very little knowledge/experience of compressors/spraying! Thanks, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 i dont see why this wont work, aslong as you can get all the connections, you should be away! 2.5hp from lidl? sounds like you have a parkside like me. this is my setup for when i did my old series 2a. not the best photo but it shows a VERY cheap system which couldn't of work any better. i borrowed next doors compressor and plug both in the gas tank and had the output coming out the tank, 2 in's and one out, the only time we stopped was when there was biscuits.. if it helps, i can get you a proper pic of the fittings on the gas tank? hope it helps for inspiration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Read the instructions for your compressor with regard to its duty cycle and the number of times per hour that it should be allowed to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 You'll be running the compressor at 35 - 40 psi while spraying. Are you sure you've really got a problem? Why not connect your spray gun up and see what happens - if necessary by spraying your vehicle with water to get some idea of what you're going to need. It may be the thing collapses totally - in which case you may need more than additional tanks. I have a friend who gets excellent results with a 2HP belt driven compressor with what I think is a 25 litre tank (its certainly smaller than my 50 litre) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I have the said Lidl compressor, (actually from Aldi, but is identical) and it was fine for spraying my lightweight, as above, running only 40PSI makes a huge difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Thanks for all of the advice guys I've not tried spraying with it yet so don't know for certain, this was only what the air supply place told me. I think I will order the moisture trap and have a go, then decide from there. Thanks Landy-Novice, my compressor looks exactly the same but has a different brand name so it most likely is the same one. If I don't have any success with the current set-up then I will drop you a PM. EJParrot, I had a look through the destruction booklet but there doesn't seem to be any info on the number of times per hr it should be allowed to start, if I was to use it too much would it just cook the motor or become dangerous? On a slightly different note, will this moisture trap be suitable? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-FILTER-REGULATOR-MOISTURE-TRAP-4-COMPRESSOR-NEW-/370330998733?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item56397297cd#ht_845wt_1141 Many thanks, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I piped in an extra tank of about the same size as the existing one when I had a smaller compressor. It worked ok, but when the pressure drops off it took (in my case) twice as long to build the pressure back up, heating the pump up pretty well. Perhaps better to spray a panel or two at a time, working within the capacity of the existing tank/compressor output? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Thanks Landy-Novice, my compressor looks exactly the same but has a different brand name so it most likely is the same one. If I don't have any success with the current set-up then I will drop you a PM.On a slightly different note, will this moisture trap be suitable? http://www.ebay.co.u...d#ht_845wt_1141 hey, no problem. if worst come to worst, you can come and borrow the tank and my compressor and that moisture is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 EJParrot, I had a look through the destruction booklet but there doesn't seem to be any info on the number of times per hr it should be allowed to start, if I was to use it too much would it just cook the motor or become dangerous? Not dangerous, what's the duty cycle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 All these little compressors will run well for hours if needed. Once I used to have 4 of them running together all commoned up to a collector tank so I could sand blast. I've a Diesel engined compressor now as even 4 single phase compressors didn't do the job. The cheap 'oil free' ones are to be avoided if you have a lot of work planned. Spraying, yes extra reservoirs are a good idea. If you put the reservoirs AFTER the regulator then you've actually got no extra storage as such, though they will make effective water traps! You need to get unregulated air from the compressor to the extra reservoir(s) and fit a proper regulator with water trap to one of these. The tiny little reg that comes with the compressor has very limited flow capability as so doesn't help with smooth airflow to the gun as you have to whack it up a bit to compensate. Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 Thanks for all of the advice everyone, I have subsequently bought a moisture trap with a regulator built in help smooth airflow. EJP, I had a look in the destructions but there doesn't appear to be a duty cycle listed (unless i'm being stupid) The technical data provided is this: Rated voltage 230 V- / 50 Hz Rated power 1.8Kw / 2.5HP Insulation category IP 20 Speed 2850 rpm Air receiver volume 24 litre Max air flow 270 l/m / 9.5cfm Max pressure 8 bar / 120 PSI I think I will just get the paint ordered (moving from matt nato to satin nato) and have a go at spraying then see how the thing fares from there. Thanks guys, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 EJP, I had a look in the destructions but there doesn't appear to be a duty cycle listed (unless i'm being stupid) No, you're not stupid, these little compressors are all continuously rated. They are aircooled and they get very warm but once they get to a certain temperature and the difference between cooling fin temp and ambient temp gets to a certain differential then that's as hot as they get. Given how cheap they are (cast pump from China, motor from Italy etc ) they last remarkably well, I've had one that I've abused on a regular basis for the last 15 years or so and it's only just given up the ghost - the capacitor on the motor went pop and split open and I decided that it wasn't worth repairing. One thing, do keep the oil level topped up on a regular basis as if it runs low it siezes up and the aluminium conrod (which serves as the big end journal surface) gets chewed up bad. Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 No, I think Julian's right, if there's not a duty cycle listed, and no restrictions on the number of starts per hour, then assume that they are 100% duty cycle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Well thats good news! Thanks for all of your advice, I will post some pictures up once I've got it sprayed up Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 i dont see why this wont work, aslong as you can get all the connections, you should be away! 2.5hp from lidl? sounds like you have a parkside like me. this is my setup for when i did my old series 2a. not the best photo but it shows a VERY cheap system which couldn't of work any better. i borrowed next doors compressor and plug both in the gas tank and had the output coming out the tank, 2 in's and one out, the only time we stopped was when there was biscuits.. if it helps, i can get you a proper pic of the fittings on the gas tank? hope it helps for inspiration. any chance you could post the pics of the valve please as i could do with an extra tank and havent a clue where to start, my little 2.5 hp (also Aldi) struggles wi my airtools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Very important point made earlier, which is worth re-enforcing: The built in regulator on these compressors is a huge drag on performance: I've a 3hp Clarke and couldn't figure out why it couldn't push a rattle gun. One day I was doing something daft (can't remember) and the regulator/output casting broke. The input to the casting was less that 1/4 inch across - since it was replaced with something a bit wider it has worked MUCH better. So, if you are doing this then ditch the regulator and fit something decent downstream. In general having all the pipes and fittings with the largest internal diameter you can get, will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Very important point made earlier, which is worth re-enforcing: The built in regulator on these compressors is a huge drag on performance: I've a 3hp Clarke and couldn't figure out why it couldn't push a rattle gun. That would be my earlier point I think There is another trick that I employ, take the inspection blank off the domed end of the tank, and with a reducer BSP sleeve fit a PCL female. You can then run your rattle gun, tyre inflater, blow gun etc direct from the tank thus bypassing the standard Micky Mouse regulator. It gives my 1/2" drive Ingersol rand rattle gun some serious Umphh! Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 That would be my earlier point I think There is another trick that I employ, take the inspection blank off the domed end of the tank, and with a reducer BSP sleeve fit a PCL female. You can then run your rattle gun, tyre inflater, blow gun etc direct from the tank thus bypassing the standard Micky Mouse regulator. It gives my 1/2" drive Ingersol rand rattle gun some serious Umphh! Julian. Yours indeed - too arsed lazy to quote. Good tip BTW - must use that. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 If your too lazy to make a tank SIP (http://www.sipuk.co.uk/tools/info_SIP06298.html) make one. We sometimes use one as a portable air source. Charge it at the compressor then take it out. By the time you've bought a pressure gauge and fittings its probably not that expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 This is the problem I have : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 As I said on the other post (about which compressor) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76893 , the quick disconnect fittings that Machine Mart sell are / have a high drag on them, connect two together (male + female) and blow through and see the resistance. I use PCL XF (extra flow I think) they have a much lower resistance to flow, but they cost a bit more. If you are using something that requires a constant airflow then you will notice the difference (something like sandblaster, spraypainter etc). If you're using a nailer or riveter, it won't really affect the operation of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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