I.B.ASH Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Hello, I have a 1986 ex-military 90, and the fuse keeps blowing which connects up to the horn and interior light, do any of you know what else this fuse connects up to, the diagram on the back of my fuse cover is a bit worn. Also sometimes the horn fuse holds but the indicator fuse blows...........wtf?! But 9 times out of 10 it is the horn fuse that blows. I have replaced the indicator/horn stalk incase it was that but no joy, and I have tryed to check out the wires as much as I can but Im not seeing any noticable kinks or bare bits. Any ideas? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rekab69 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Hi, I had a simular problem although it was near side dipped headlight and wiper fuses, turned out to be melted wiring loom that run inside the near side wing.. Mine is a 1998 but might have the same loom runs.. Good luck.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Cheers rekab69. I had a thoght...last year I had some electrical gremlins, turned out to be a dodgy earth coming from the convoy light, so I bolted a new earth to the chassis, the thing is I cant remember if this is when I started to experience the horn fuse blowing, but over the past year it has got worse to the point that now as soon as I put a fuse in it blows right away. Is the convoy light rigged upto the horn fuse, as that could have something to do with it? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Oh yeah, I forgot, my side lights arnt working either, guessing they are on that fuse as well??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 have a look at the wiring where it runs along the top of each inner wing, I found mine had been chaffing, but found it before any shorts occured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Cheers Western. Well I have the horn and interior light working, I disconnected the convoy light and found a chaffed wire going to the indicators near it, but now the indicators only work left and right when the hazord switch is in the on position, and the meaning there are no hazords! It a process!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 hazard switch could be duff to, as the indicators current pass through it, this might help http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25376 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Cheers again western, thats a good thread, but...everything seems to be working now, I changed the indicator relay for a spare that I had, the interior light is working (cant test the horn yet but it works off the same fuse as the interior light which used to blow within seconds of a new fuse going in, I only have 5amp fuses left, and that one should be a 10 or 15 amp, so Im waiting for some new fuses till I test the horn, but I think thats sorted), and the hazords are working, all since I disconected the convoy light, sorted the chaffed wire to the rear drivers side indicator and changed the indicator relay. That is everything is working, apart from my side lights now! Im not understanding this. What fuse do the side lights work from, I have checked all of the fuses and they all seem to be fine, Im guessing its the bottom two on the right hand side as the are the lowest amp, but my diagram is in shoddy condition. I want to change the side light fuses...just to be sure its not them. Im not enjoying this anymore! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Iv been thinking....I cut the wires to the convoy light and repaired a chaffed wire going to the rear drivers side indicator, so.... The convoy light was earthed to the chassis, but because its no longer connected there is no earth, but for all I know the earth coming from the convoy light may not have just been for the convoy light as last year I had to bodge a new earth for the convoy as my indicators were playing up, but I dont know what my side lights were doing at that point. So Im thinking that maybe one of the two wires I chopped from the convoy light today could have been the earth for the side lights. But why have the earth for them at the rear of the landy!?!?! I suppose Iv just gotta test that theory, unless any of you can tell me where the earth for the side lights is? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 your fusebox label should be similar to my 110's label [mine is a 1989 vehicle] side/tail light fuses should be 2 on lower right rated at 5amp each side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Fixed! I think that everything is sorted, time will tell. Thanks to all that chipped in, and thanks for the picture western, I think my fuse box is a bit jumbled about, but thats a job for another day. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 should be fairly easy to check the fusebox with the wiring digram & the label above, & print it off to stick inside to cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoD90 Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 (edited) CONSTANT versus BLOW AMPERAGE It came as a surprise to me when I learnt that those fuse Amperages printed inside the 1987 Ninety fuse box are not the fuse ratings I need! Apparently Lucas/Rover have specified something called the constant current, rather than the current at which the fuse blows. If I'd thought about it, a 10A fuse fitted to the two headlamps would be nowhere near enough for main beam which is 60W at 12V (i.e. 10A). It also explains why my Ex-Militarily Ninety came with what appeared to be massively overrated fuses. And it explains why none of the Land Rover specialist equipment suppliers were stocking the fuses I was looking for. I'd just assumed they were a discontinued product. However, here's a very nice table I found on the Triumph TR7 forum (thank you guys), which tells us what "blow" Amperage of fuse to fit for each of the "continuous Amps" specified inside the Land Rover fuse box. Lucas 50 amp - continuous 25 amp - part number GFS3050 Lucas 35 amp - continuous 17 amp - part number GFS3035 Lucas 25 amp - continuous 12 amp - part number GFS3025 Lucas 20 amp - continuous 10 amp - part number GFS3020 Lucas 15 amp - continuous 8 amp - part number GFS3015 Lucas 10 amp - continuous 5 amp - part number GFS3010 Lucas 8 amp - continuous 4 amp - part number GFS3008 - NLA Lucas 5 amp - continuous 3 amp - part number GFS3005 Lucas 3 amp - continuous 1.5amp - part number GFS3003 Lucas 2 amp - continuous 1 amp - part number GFS3002 - NLA So, if the aforementioned Horn's supposedly 12A fuse keeps blowing, what should actually be fitted is what sounds like a scarily overrated 25A fuse, as this is the correct rating for handling 12V of continuous current. ...no wonder I've had so many fuses blowing over the years; not to mention had trouble sourcing what I thought were glass fuses whose production had been discontinued except from the far east suppliers. Hope this helps, and thanks to our TR7 friends for putting me straight. Rick Edited March 3, 2017 by MoD90 typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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