Simon B Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 I did an engine conversion a couple of years back from a V8 to an Isuzu 4JB1 2.8 diesel, it's a lovely engine but the clutch has given out. The clutch plate I fitted was a Valeo 23 spline 9.5" or 242 mm. It looked a skinny little thing when I fitted it and I did wonder then. What would be the best thing to replace it? I had there is an HD version for the 130 but have seen various sizes quoted but do not know if it will fit my LT85 which I think is a 23 spline input shaft. The Isuzu clutch cover will only accept a 9.5" plate so cannot use the original V8 one which is nice and big 10.5". I had a donor engine that had its Isuzu cover spaced off with washers, what is the significance of this? Other varied sources have pointed to differences between Borg & Beck and Valeo saying the Borg & Beck units have more meat on them? I had meant to talk to Rakeway in the week but could not, will try them monday. As well as the plate I was thinking of doing the clutch fork too, the release bearing is in a big solid metal carrier (came with conv kit from C & P) its less than 2 years old do I need to change that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 The washers are need to get the isuzu cover plate in the right position - I think they need to be 1mm thickness from memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 when i put a v8 into a series , donkeys years ago , i used a jaguar pressure plate and a diesel lr friction plate. that lasted well, only prob was you needed a strong left leg! try contacting a clutch refurb company as they will know the substitutions possibilities , HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 when i put a v8 into a series , donkeys years ago , i used a jaguar pressure plate and a diesel lr friction plate. that lasted well, only prob was you needed a strong left leg! Hi, after the third cover broke (radial crack) I did exactly the same and it lasted longer than my ability to afford fuel for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Can you have the flywheel machined to accept a landy pressure plate to go with a 130 friction plate.. My 200 powered 110 has a valeo 130 clutch and gets put through hell and handles it all fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 ive got the standard B&B 9.5" plate in mine, and did have some troubles with the standard 2.25d clutch system not coping. im now using a disco pressure plate with a B&B friction plate, and have been for well over a year. its a reasonably heavy pedal, but ive not managed to get it to slip yet, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi_110 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 The clutch plate I'm using between my FD-35 and LT-85 is a mitsubishi one but I would not recommend it, the anti-rattle dampers are weak and she's a very noisey unit at idle. Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 Well I fitted an AP plate which looks a lot more meaty than the Valeo unit in before, however, the bite is very close to the top of the pedal travel. There is no spongyness so I dont believe any air is in the system. Does anyone have any ideas why the bite would be high? might sound klike a daft question but I dont quite know how the system works! The cover was spaced off with washers I did wonder if they have a role in locating the bite position or whether an adjustable push rod might vary the position (suggestion from fitter at work) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 try readjusting the clutch pedal from floor height, there is a section in the workshop manual on how to do it, or just search the defender forum for clutch pedal adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 The installation instructions I have for the 2.8 conversion kit from Conversion & Precision stipulate that 1mm washers must be installed between pressure plate and flywheel. That's when using LR clutch plate and Isuzu pressure plate, so could be to take account of a difference in depth between Isuzu and LR pressure plates, maybe the LR clutch plate is 1mm thicker, or the position of the flywheel might be slightly different on the Isuzu. I run the Isuzu pressure plate, LR clutch plate and have 1mm washers in and pedal position and operation is perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted September 26, 2012 Author Share Posted September 26, 2012 Reset pedal height but clutch still bites at the very top, might change slave cylinder to a known 110V8 part# one. Got a master cylinder I could change too, if its still bad I run out of ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe90 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I know its a while ago but did you sort the clutch problem ? I have similar issues !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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