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induction hose collapse td5 and broken stud


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Hello

I am trying to get my 90 ready for a weeks camping trip leaving on Sunday and so far it's not going well. I have just had to remove the manifold and now have 2 stuck snapped studs to get out .

The first one I started to drill it out and then it suddenly spun its self in further as I was drilling, resulting in a snapped drill bit left in. That one is not such a problem becaus it's further in then I need for the new stud. I would still like to remove this so I have ordered a larger left hand drill in the hope it will grip and wind out.

The other stud is stuck solid. It seems harder and not so easy to drill out so I was going to try a left hand drill on it tomorrow.

should I heat the stud and around the head first ? It's a big lump of ali so won't be easy to heat. Would it be ok to run it with the turbo and manifold off the get things warm again then add more heat with the gas burner ? I don't like the idea of snapping a stud extractor in there if it does not want to move . Was thinking of drilling it out and re tap or fit an insert . Never fitted one but it looks simple to do?

The other problem is the induction hose will collapse under load causing total loss of power and lots of black smoke. It's running stage 2 map and IC. It also has a snorkel that won't be helping . I have looked at 90 deg Ali pipe bends available from demon tweeks and was thinking of replacing the end bit of rubber pipe that goes to the turbo, then using samco pipes to join both ends . The problem is then what to do with the breather pipe?

I looked at an oil catch tank but I am sure they are still meant to vent back into the air intake? The best solution I can think of is to weld a tube to the new 90deg bend pipe to connect a vent pipe. However I don't have access to welding kit anymore and need a solution for this weekend. Any ideas on a quick fix. Possibly putting something into the rubber pipe to stop it collapsing . I can then find an engineering place to make a proper fix when I get back

Matt

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The left-hand drill often gets studs out as the drill creates heat which helps. For the rest, the best way seems to be to use a MIG welder to attach a bolt. This heats up the stud and the bolt can then be screwed out complete with stud. Stud extractors are mostly more trouble than they are worth as when they break (when, not if) you are in real trouble.

It does help to get the manifold refaced as they warp which breaks the studs. Another trick is to use Wurth studs which are in their catalogue as Mercededes-Benz studs. They are exactly the same size as the TD5 studs but are much stronger and don't break.

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I've just been through the same scenario with my exhaust manifold.

I drilled a 3mm hole in the snapped studs and hammered a torx bit into the hole. Undo gently with ratchet.

One of my studs was stuck because it was an incorrect stud thread that had been forced in. That one I welded a nut on and wound it out.

I've helicoiled 2 holes and had the manifold skimmed. I have bolted up the manifold this evening after drilling out the manifold stud holes on 2 & 4 to 9mm and 1 & 5 to 10mm.

So far, so good.

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Thanks for the info guys.

I had another go last night and ended up drilling out and using a helicoil. The stud seemed welded in and I did not want to risk a broken extractor . Got to get torque wrench now because mine starts at 60nm and the book shows they are 25nm . Building back up should be the easy part .

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