dave88sw Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 May seem a silly question to some but how would i go about removing the injector pump from my engine? The timing case needs to be replaced as it has cracked so i need to remove the injector pump but dont want to completely lose the timing. I know whatever i do it will need setting up after but i have been told if you remove the large centre nut, there is no keyway on the shaft, it is just tapered so putting the pulley back in the same place is near impossible. Do i remove the 3 bolts on the pulley? I dont want to go on removing anything until i know it can be put back together. Thanks in advance Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 yes, remove the 3 bolts that alow the pump to stay still but let the pully rotate. Dont worry about timing the pump 1st, it'll set up fine when back on the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 if the rear part of the timing case is the bit that's cracked then all the timing gear/injection pump have to be removed so the rear part of timing case can be replaced, if it's the front cover that's cracked, there is no need to disturb the injection pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 You could try setting the engine at TDC and then marking the pump shaft to the pump body. But you would then need to ensure that the pump shaft doesn't turn once you've removed the pulley, otherwise you'd likely struggle to correctly reset the timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 You could try setting the engine at TDC and then marking the pump shaft to the pump body. But you would then need to ensure that the pump shaft doesn't turn once you've removed the pulley, otherwise you'd likely struggle to correctly reset the timing. WHY???? the pump is made to be removed with the hub on and the pully removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 Just to confirm it is the rear housing that has cracked, no idea how; i bought the engine like it. Thanks for the advice, just what i wanted to know. Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jode Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 WHY???? the pump is made to be removed with the hub on and the pully removed You are quite right - the pump IS removed with the flange. However the workshop manual also states the following when describing the procedure to remove the injection pump gear:"CAUTION: It is important to ensure that when the injection pump is locked no attempt must be made to rotate it...". Based on that comment, I presumed (incorrectly?) that disturbing the position of the injection pump shaft either during or after removal etc. may result in the timing being off once the pump is refit to the engine, this despite the fact that the pump hub aligns with the timing pin. Again I presumed that if the pump hub is turned 360 deg. out from its orignial position when remove then the timing will be incorrect (at 360 deg the timing pin would again align with the hub). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 You are quite right - the pump IS removed with the flange. However the workshop manual also states the following when describing the procedure to remove the injection pump gear: "CAUTION: It is important to ensure that when the injection pump is locked no attempt must be made to rotate it...". Based on that comment, I presumed (incorrectly?) that disturbing the position of the injection pump shaft either during or after removal etc. may result in the timing being off once the pump is refit to the engine, this despite the fact that the pump hub aligns with the timing pin. Again I presumed that if the pump hub is turned 360 deg. out from its orignial position when remove then the timing will be incorrect (at 360 deg the timing pin would again align with the hub). One full rotation of the pump is 1 full rotation of the engine. So when you refit the pump, you put the crank at Tdc on number one cylinder, line the cam to the mark and then lock the pump in its timmed position and fit the belt. The shop manual is talking carp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 I never quite get this. If you lock the pump correctly (using the bolt and flange thing on the side of the pump) when everything is set at TDC and the timing pins are in, is it possible to rotate the shaft as you remove the pulley? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 I never quite get this. If you lock the pump correctly (using the bolt and flange thing on the side of the pump) when everything is set at TDC and the timing pins are in, is it possible to rotate the shaft as you remove the pulley? nope, you cant/shouldnt be able to rotate any of the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 So, pump removal is quite simple provided it is timed correctly in the first place allowing you to lock it at the engines tdc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Yes, to remove the pump. Take the pipe work off the back, the return pipe and feed pipe. Boost supply pipe. Then, timing case strip, timing belt off, undo the 3 bolts holding the pully to the hub. Next, the rear bracket holding the pump to the block at its rear, then the 3 bolts holding the front of the pump to the timing case and withdraw. There is a land rover special tool to hold the pully in position but i've not seen one and i'm not 100% sure how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 There is a land rover special tool to hold the pulley in position but i've not seen one and i'm not 100% sure how it works. got one in my timing pin kit, bought via rbay, it holds the timing pulley to the timing case & allows the 3 small bolts to be removed & the FIP to be removed, I haven't used it, prefer open the timing case up if my FIP ever has to be removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 got one in my timing pin kit, bought via rbay, it holds the timing pulley to the timing case & allows the 3 small bolts to be removed & the FIP to be removed, I haven't used it, prefer open the timing case up if my FIP ever has to be removed. Any chance of a couple of pics Ralph? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 VB, I have this kit which claims to have the FIP pulley holding tool http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140755039650 I believe you use the big circular lump as seen in the pictures but have never tried it, the same piece is also used to remove crank pulleys and timing gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 pictures of my complete timing kit & the set up of parts for locking the FIP timing gear to timing case for FIP remove/refit I bought from this ebay shop http://stores.ebay.co.uk/jacksdiscount but they haven't any listed at this time. I think [because I've not used it in this form] the cover plate is removed the circular holding tool is offered to the timing gear, the 2 screws are fitted & the timning pin is fitted, naturally the engine has to be set to TDC first before ftting the holding tool.then the 3 small bolts are removed & FIP can be removed from engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Ah, I see Mr Cwazywabbit has the same kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Yep, certainly looks the same. By the looks of things you have to unbolt the pulley from the FIP before fitting the locking tool, I guess you then cross your fingers that things don't move till the tool is in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Ah, I see Mr Cwazywabbit has the same kit. <aol>Me too</aol> Since I pulled my FIP from the old engine (with the dead cam belt & con rods through the side), there wasn't much to go on with setting TDC; timing seems fine with it in the replacement - although I'd use the holder if I was pulling the FIP from something that mattered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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