Tiger Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 When looking at my rear crossmember it was looking a bit flakey so like a kid picking a scab i had a look. 30 mins later and after a whacking with a wheel brace and attack of the angle grinder wire brush we have this. Everywhere else is solid and in good shape. So weld in a new bit? or reaplce the whole thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I'll probably get flamed to death for this suggestion, but put a repair washer through the hole on a bit of wire. Pull it tight to the inside and mig it up. Unless you think it is too thin to take a micro local repair, then skin it in 2mm sheet with holes for jack, hitch and handles and ditch all the little holes? If you hadn't got the hitch 'V' brace, then I wouldn't be suggesting the local repair at all, and even a local patch would be right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdix Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Same suggestion here so flame me too ... Had these spots on the same place and patched them up with 2mm sheet. Must say I never use the holes for the jack. Alo have the V brace and so far didn't notice any significant effect on towing 2,5 tons. Cheers FerdiX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 If you do that I'd invest in a disco bottle jack. If you plan on keeping it why not do the X member - you'll probably have to do it next year anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I'll probably get flamed to death for this suggestion, but put a repair washer through the hole on a bit of wire. Pull it tight to the inside and mig it up. Unless you think it is too thin to take a micro local repair, then skin it in 2mm sheet with holes for jack, hitch and handles and ditch all the little holes. i 100% agree with this! if the rest is fine, just patch it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 I'm lost with the "disco bottle jack"?????? I'm a bad a stick welder so may get somebody who knows what they are doing on the case then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 re the bottle jack, I'm assuming the jack points aren't as strong as they once were (having twice suffered crispy crossmembers that the pillar jack passed upwards through) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I guess it depends on your plan for the truck? Do you plan on keeping it? What is the rest of the Chassis like? How bad is the other side? Is the x-member sound? The bottle jack thing was about the rust being near your jacking point so it could end up leaving you with a weak jacking point if you just patch it. If you are going to keep it, it may be worth replacing depending on condition/cash available etc but it does look weldable. If not stick some chequer plate over it and flog it like many others on eBay!! Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Got the same with mine , trouble is it will be much worse internally. This started out as a pinhole Just bought a Black Sheep Offroad rear crossmember, 6mm steel and no mudtraps! (LH one is mine, RH is for a 1991 90) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Rest of the chassis is awesome and spot on. It was waxoiled a while ago but I never cleaned out the mud trap at the back and it was full of sandy / dusty road carp. I've had the Landy for years and it's a keeper The rest of the chassis / crossmember is so good it seems a shame to not patch up the one small bad bit if that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 That's reassuring - I've just blown 2 holes in the cross member by the body mounts while pressure washing it. The holes are about 2cm tops, so I'm expecting to chop out at least twice that and weld in some 2.5mm steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Rear Cross members rot often from the inside out If you are going to use it for towing, or competitions of any kind, or eben playdays where you may need it for recovery etc then replace I would add this is not just for you in this instance, as a recovery marshall of some years I am fed up with bits coming off and aiming for me when I have to do recoverys, I have an aversion to rusty lumps aiming for my head / truck / groin it more a road motor, with none of the above then repair, however sometimes the repair can take far longer than you think, as more may show up when Mr Mig pays a vist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Hmph. Had a dig at the two holes this morning and enlarged them, courtesy of a large very coarse file (assuming the filter will get the real name?). One a little bit - One quite a lot - Both of these are going to need more cutting back to get to thick enough steel to weld. On the LHS I'm thinking of cutting around the body mount before gluing it back on again (although I'm a little concerned for the aluminium in proximity). What has surprised me is just how much rubbish was still stuck behind them, despite the pressure washing last week; I need to go at that again before I cut any more. Realistically, the crossmember will need replacing soon; in the short term this is not going to be pulling anything, so a patched solution will do for me. One thing that puzzles me slightly is this: Does that look as though a crossmember has already been replaced there with extensions? The flash has washed some of the contrast out, unfortunately. If that *is* a replacement, that happened during the first 7 years of its life - do they really last that short a time??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Further to HfH’s suggestion: If you’re going to pay someone else to do the welding, you may aswell get them to replace the x-member. An independent LR specialist with a ramp should have it licked within a couple of hours. If you can get hold of a MIG and can spare the time to fettle it, by all means try to patch. I wouldn’t attempt to do it with a stick (ARC) welder, but then you might be an ace with a stick, whereas I’m just a fule… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Some options here if you opt for replacement: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=77896 If you are around the London area, I dont think blacksheepoffroad is too far from you in the grand scheme of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Yep, that looks like a crossmember with extensions has been fitted before, what era of truck is it? Some rot more quickly than others.... Given the rust and work involved in patching, I would just buy a good quality replacement and glue it on, then give it adequate protection, unlike the previous owner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Yep, that looks like a crossmember with extensions has been fitted before, what era of truck is it? Some rot more quickly than others.... Given the rust and work involved in patching, I would just buy a good quality replacement and glue it on, then give it adequate protection, unlike the previous owner! That's a P reg 110 (which I've been blithely calling a '95, but that's wrong); it had a hard life as a hire vehicle before I got it, and it has been thoroughly neglected the past few years (post engine malfunction particularly). I *might* be tempted to put a new x member in the back & have it stuck on by the guys I want to do the MOT - seems every time I get close to it being ready I find something else! If it's already had one with extensions put on, what's different in taking the old one off? Just grind off the welds and hope there's enough length in the chassis for the replacement? A MIG welder is on my shopping list - much prefer using them to my buzzbox, although my flat arc welding is acceptable these days. Would need to do some practice vertical before thinking of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Well as above, if you find a specialist you may find it cheaper to go with them, as they will be used to doing them. 2-3 hours doesn't sound unreasonable to me with the correct equipment. 90/110 crossmembers are a piece of cake compared to series trucks, where half the suspension is attached to the crossmember, and you can get to the top surface to weld it all up unlike on a series where the floor is in the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 It is possible that the x-member was replaced for other reasons than just rust, if it was a hire vehicle truck it could have ended up with a twisted back end or other damage to the rear end. A x-member is not the massive job people think and as above can often be cheaper than chasing holes but again it depends on how long you intend to keep the truck etc. I have seen some really bad repairs to the rear everything from filler to just sticking some chequer plate over them. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 There is a guy on eBay based in Canvey Island that seems to do cross members that look fairly solid, don't know him and haven't seen the work close up but the photos look good. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 There is a guy on eBay based in Canvey Island that seems to do cross members that look fairly solid, don't know him and haven't seen the work close up but the photos look good. Jason. Hes the chap i mentioned above Jason - goes by the name of Pressbrake on some forums. I havent used him, but he gets a lot of praise (see the other thread i linked up above). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Hes the chap i mentioned above Jason - goes by the name of Pressbrake on some forums. I havent used him, but he gets a lot of praise (see the other thread i linked up above). Sorry mate, didn't follow your link... I was considering using him to make me a special front bumper, but that will have to wait until I get my truck back. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Sorry mate, didn't follow your link... I was considering using him to make me a special front bumper, but that will have to wait until I get my truck back. Jason. you seen his front bumper? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-defender-90-110-heavy-duty-bumper-with-centre-pin-/140838294471?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ca9dd3c7 i was quite tempted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Sorry mate, didn't follow your link... I was considering using him to make me a special front bumper, but that will have to wait until I get my truck back. Jason. No problem - just thought i'd link the two up so folks didnt think we were talking about different people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 you seen his front bumper? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item20ca9dd3c7 i was quite tempted! Yup but I have a plan, I like how my current bull bar wraps around the front wings and protects them but want to put my winch bumper back on and the two won't fit on the truck together. Ideally I want an ARB winch bumper but can't get one for a Defender with A/C unless I shell out £1k for a new one, I already have a Mantec winch bumper and a really good bull bar, I am convinced that with a bit of fabrication the two could be joined together and made strong. My fabrication skills don't stretch to that type of project as I would want it to look like a factory made unit, so need to find someone to make it and looking around he looks like he has the type of skills I need. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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