robhybrid Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 My mate has a problem that his rear wheels wont even lock up when on grass. The landrover is a early 300 tdi 90. The rear discs were changed and good quality brake pads were fitted all round. We have tried changing the brake bias valve for a new one and this did not alter the situation at all. The brakes bleed easily without any problems so I dont think there is anything wrong with the pipes. The rear calipers are in good condition and push back easily, the wheels will lock if they are in the air. As far as I can see the next step is to change the brake master cylinder. Has anybody got any other ideas that I might of missed? Has anyone else had similar problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 clamp off the fronts and try it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 Rob, what's the weight distribution like? I could lock my rears very easily before I fitted the rear winch but now pretty much all 4 lock up at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robhybrid Posted September 5, 2005 Author Share Posted September 5, 2005 The 90 is almost completely standard hard top and spends most of its time with only a Bass box speaker set up in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Marshall Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 Check the flexible hoses - are they spreading under load, dissipating energy? Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 I'd try clamping the front flexies as suggested. or try swapping the lines coming out of the master cylinder - since the front's seem to work. If this does not help, look to see which type of balencing valve you have. There is one type which bolts to the chassis and another which bolts through the drivers footwell. The latter type are prone to jamming - even when new. They operate when there is a pressure loss in either the front or rear - a shuttle moves to seal off whichever line has the lower pressure. Sometimes bleeding, particularly with an 'easybleed' is enough to cause this problem. You can un-screw the ends of the valve & poke the shuttle back to the middle to fix it. The type which bolts to the chassis is much better (it has a shuttle which moves forward by it's momentum on braking, increasing the pressure to the front). These can jam too - tapping with a hammer often fixes. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.