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captainpugwash

servo

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Depending on year, you have a few options:

- Buy standard bits (servo & master cylinder) from a later servo-equipped model

- Buy an early Defender servo & adapt it to fit

- Buy a complete early Defender brake pedal box, servo & master and bolt it in.

My anorak doesn't know what the various differences are, you do need to watch the dual-line / single-line brake pipe plumbing but it's usually possible to re-plumb the vehicle to suit - cost you a reel of copper brake pipe & some fittings but not too bad a job.

I'm sure someone who knows will be along to fill in the technical stuff soon...

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You can also bolt a (very) early Range Rover servo to the Series pedal box with an adapter made from some 10mm plate with 8 holes drilled. I've run all combinations of the above, now heading towards the complete defender pedal box method as everything then bolts to each other (servo/master/pedal) rather than needing adapting.

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Remote servo, had one, it did well with a single system and was very easy to install as well. It might be better then fitting a defender setup.

G

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Remote servo, had one, it did well with a single system and was very easy to install as well. It might be better then fitting a defender setup.

G

Have you any details on the remote servo??

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Just do a search on eBay for remote servo. They're a popular retrofit to mini's and mg's so lots of kits are available.

I have a single line servo from S3 in my 2a. Fitting involves removing the tie bar that goes from the bulkhead to the footwell and cutting the wing top and inner wing to give enough space for the servo. Alternatively you could fit a s3 front wing.

If you do go remote servo you can mount it where you want so no cutting required.

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Just do a search on eBay for remote servo. They're a popular retrofit to mini's and mg's so lots of kits are available.

I have a single line servo from S3 in my 2a. Fitting involves removing the tie bar that goes from the bulkhead to the footwell and cutting the wing top and inner wing to give enough space for the servo. Alternatively you could fit a s3 front wing.

If you do go remote servo you can mount it where you want so no cutting required.

Had one in my Series 1 for 25years all was good until last year when the seal failed and it ingested all the brake fluid due to the vacuum. When this happens you have no brakes and the fluid disappears in to the servo.

Marc.

I will still replace it though as it is great for a Series 1. Series 2/3 go standard and fit the correct pedal box for less hassle and insurance etc.

Note though there are different ratios of assistance and you need to find the correct one. with a little searching it can be found.

Marc.

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I have a Lockheed type scrapyard remote servo on my S1 which is fitted with s3 pedal boxes on a cut down s3 replacement footwell section. The servo is marked Benditalia which means it probably came off a Fiat or Alpha.

The servo has been working fine for nearly 10 years, I have a 109 front axle with twin brake cylinders so the car used to stop well.

Last week due to oil and brake fluid on the shoes I started a brake rebuild using some spare rebuilt backplates and new hub seals all round. At the same time I upgraded the front hubs and shafts to the later versions with identical innner and outer wheel bearings.

The 3/4" master cylinder was replaced and then problems started. I found if the pedal freeplay is set properly a fully returned pedal lets the next press down to the floor. If the lash is taken out then I get a firm pedal and good brakes after a few pumps but then the brake pressure builds up and locks up the brakes whilst driving. Replacing the new 3/4" cylinder with another does not show any improvement.

I have ordered a S2A LWB master cylinder which is bigger as this seems to be the cause of the problem, a recon lockheed servo is also due in the post.

I am puzzled by the way the pedal drops to the floor if the freeplay is removed and hope that using a bigger master cylinder is the correct solution.

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